The Whale Trail without the waiting list

One of the joys of the Whale Trail is the overnight huts, hidden in valleys and perched dramatically on the cliffs. The Damara Trail sleep-out deck doesn’t quite match that drama, but its location, just a few hundred metres from the sea, is a delight (hello sunset frisbee sessions on the beach) and has been thoughtfully created to offer a starry sleep-out in the coastal dunes.

The overnight sleep-out deck keeps things simple but offers more comfort than many hikers are used to. The main deck has four two-person tents pitched and ready, set under (and sheltered by) a waterproof roof that keeps both wind and (some of) the rain at bay. Each tent comes with two nice, thick foam mattresses, which make for a good night’s sleep. Annoyingly, though, the mattresses are too big to fit side by side properly, so some pushing, pulling and balancing is required to fit them inside. If the weather were fine, I’d be tempted to sleep beneath the stars.

It’s a small gripe I’m willing to forgive, given that CapeNature provides what they call the Trailblazer’s Chest. It’s waiting on arrival, and includes all the crockery, cutlery, pots and things you’ll need to cook dinner. That means you don’t have to carry your own, which is always music to a hiker’s ears. Heck, there’s even a cast-iron potjie for you to use in the braai place! 

That’s another highlight, with a braai area and two bags of eco-logs provided. You can order extra eco-logs in advance if you like, or – as we did – carry some charcoal for the braai, and use the logs for a campfire. Just be aware of strong winds and be responsible for extinguishing the coals.

A picnic table and umbrella complete the picture, along with two composting toilets and a rainwater tank for washing.

While that JoJo is useful for a quick wash, or rinsing sand from your toes after a swim, it’s not suitable for drinking. Drinking water is supplied (40L per night), which you’ll need for your night at the deck, as well as hiking the next day.

Because here’s an important point: there is no water on the Damara Trail. None, zip, zero. Unless you carry enough with you from the car to the overnight shelter, and the shelter to Arniston, you’re going to get thirsty. Very thirsty. So pack accordingly. On a hot day, I’d carry at least three litres per person, especially for day two. Be sure to fill your bottles at De Mond and the overnight spot.

Day two is definitely the highlight of the Damara Trail, with a landscape and sense of escapism that will feel familiar to anyone who has walked the Whale Trail. The day starts with a long stretch on the beach, so check the tide tables and walk at low tide if you can. We couldn’t, but settled for the hard-ish sand at the high-water mark, which came with the benefit of seeing what flotsam and jetsam the seas had washed up.

Over the next five kilometres it became a treasure hunt: rusted rice wine tins and ship ropes, bottles emblazoned with Asian text and skeletons of rays. We stopped at fishermen casting their lines off lonely shores for a chat, and scanned the waves for whales (no luck, too early in the season). From July to October, I bet you’d see plenty of cetacean action though! The path was long, but we barely noticed our calves aching from the soft sand.

After five kilometres the beach route heads to the clifftops – again, reminding me of the Whale Trail – and the extra height offered superb views of the coastline. Back into the coastal scrub, and along rugged outcrops, the path rolled easily down towards Die Baken; a century-old lighthouse that warned sailors of the reefs offshore. Just along the coast, a low-tide visit will reveal ancient fish traps used by the indigenous Khoi and San.

From Die Baken it’s less than two kilometres to the finishing point at Roman Beach, where we basked in late-autumn sunshine and warm seas. The perfect way to end off two days on the trail.

If time allows, I’d definitely extend the hike to include one night in Arniston. There’s the Arniston Hotel for a spoil, but also no shortage of guesthouses and B&Bs to choose from.

If you can’t, ensure you’re at the Roman Beach parking area by 12:30pm. A nice addition to the Damara Trail experience is that a shuttle back to De Mond is included in the cost. 

Getting there: The Damara Trail starts at De Mond Nature Reserve, a 2.5-hour drive from Cape Town. 

Cost: R3 480 for up to six hikers. Then R580 per hiker, up to a maximum of eight. This includes the overnight accommodation.

Need to pack: Food, clothing, sufficient water (or water bottles) for each day. A wide-brimmed hat and sunscreen are essential, as the harsh sun reflects off the sand and sea. Hiking boots are not essential. Trail shoes/trainers will manage quite fine. A raincoat and bag cover are handy if there’s any rain in the forecast.

Can you slackpack? Officially, no: you'll need to carry all your own kit from the De Mond parking lot to the overnight shelter. However, unofficially, if you arrive at reception before the service vehicle leaves to deliver water to the sleepout deck, they are usually happy to deliver any heavy cooler bags for you. 

How to book: Visit CapeNature’s De Mond page. Their excellent Damara Trail brochure has plenty of useful info too.