Forget following the scent of coffee in Bo-Kaap - here you follow the spices.
Just as the air fills with the sound of afternoon prayers from the nearby mosque, the scents of cumin, cinnamon, and cardamom curl around the candy-coloured facades to grab you by the taste buds. It’s one of Cape Town’s most photographed neighbourhoods, but there’s far more than a pretty pastel street to discover.
Dating back to the 17th century, Bo-Kaap has long pulsed with entrepreneurial energy - from the darker days of huurhuis rentals tied to slavery, to the thriving, food-driven community it is today.
Cape Malay cuisine and culture have shaped its small businesses, from multi-generational spice shops to family kitchens turned local eateries.
Mainstays like Atlas Trading Company, Bo-Kaap Kombuis, and Biesmiellah now share bustling street corners with newer spots like Groovy Greens, Brough Pizza and Lion’s Bred - it's a beautiful collision of old Cape flavour and modern flair that keeps the neighbourhood evolving as it looks to steadfastly preserve its soul.
I joined Eat Like a Local’s “Taste of Cape Town” walking food tour to rekindle what I know to be a universal truth: one of the best ways to understand a city is through its food.
As founder and guide, Rupesh Kassen puts it, “Experiencing a city through the lens of food" is such a simple, yet deeply intimate way to explore as a traveller.
Rupesh is passionate about Bo-Kaap. He’s made it his mission to spotlight local entrepreneurs in a neighbourhood wrestling with change.
While the bright facades and cobblestone streets draw crowds of tourists and influencers, the community continues to grapple with gentrification and rising property prices. Foreign investment and short-term rentals have reportedly edged out long-time residents, sparking protests over new developments looming above the area’s mosques and historic homes.
For many, their culture and heritage have become a form of resistance, underscored by Gaza-esque murals, with the traditions of food further highlighting the need for this community to thrive and be protected in its own right.
Rupesh views his tour as a more mindful alternative to drive-by tourism: immersive, respectful and led by locals who are proud to share their stories one bite at a time.
As one Eat Like a Local guest said, "This is actually two tours in one: food and culture. Definitely a worthwhile excursion."
Need to Know
- Tour: Taste of Cape Town with Eat Like a Local
- Guide: Rupesh Kassen
- When: Monday – Friday, 9:30 AM – 2:00 PM
- Where: Meet at Stellski Coffee, 129 Bree Street
- Stops: Bo-Kaap, Company’s Garden, Greenmarket Square, Heritage Square
- Includes: 15+ tastings, wine and a whole lot of local flavour. Come hungry!
- Cost: Starts from R2200 per person
