How Chiang Mai became the punchy capital of women's Muay Thai

The mighty triangle of Thailand’s front row Muay Thai destinations – Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket – are busier than ever and for women in the sport, it all points north. Long established as a Muay Thai epicentre, Chiang Mai has been racing ahead of late as the frontrunner for female fighters. The north is making waves thanks to its women-led training gyms and vast numbers of local and international girls competing with more regular ‘lady fights’ than anywhere else in the country. We’ve even got the first female commentator of the ONE Championships in town – commuting down to BKK for her suited and booted, mic-wielding role. But how did Chiang Mai come to take centre stage?

Two-time World Muay Thai Council champion Teresa Wintermyr remembers visiting the north in 2007 and training in Pai for a month before having her first Chiang Mai fight. ‘Back then it was not common for women to fight at all. There were fight events almost every day and there'd be maybe one female fight every two weeks,’ she recollects, beaming. ‘I didn't mean for it to become a career, I just kept doing it.’

After gaining an impressive collection of belts and trophies she opened Sedthee Fight Club with her partner Sedthee Erawan (also a champion fighter). In the midst of a dwindling pandemic, they opened Chiang Mai’s first gym with an English-speaking female trainer. Word got around town that world champion Teresa, who’d been a regular on the fight circuit for over 15 years, was now also teaching and girls signed up in droves. Due to this popularity, they moved from a humble spot in Hang Dong to their new sleek gym in Santitham where both Sedthee and Teresa run group and private training sessions. 

‘I think that it's different here in Chiang Mai. There’s a lot of top female fighters in Phuket who have 70 fights under their belt but there’s less competition in the mid-range. Here, there are all levels of abilities and opponents which is good because more women can fight,’ says Teresa.

Hers is not the only female-friendly gym in town. For Thai girls, Phet Ton Phueng Boxing Camp is the place to be. Run by former fighter Bee, the Mae Rim talent hub has been turning out exceptional local female talent since 2017. We caught up with Namwhan after her match at Loi Krok Stadium where, with razor sharp kicks, she warded off a female opponent twice her age. 

At just 15 years old she's looking dangerous already. ‘I moved to Chiang Mai from Isan when I was five years old and began training just over a year ago. I've had 11 fights already,’ she says, shyly. Look out for Namwhan on the fight sheet – we know who we’re placing our bets on.

Sarah Gohier is at the fights with us and breaks down what makes Chiang Mai special. ‘In Phuket, the scene is more geared towards foreigners, whereas the majority of women fighting in Chiang Mai are Thai and live here so there’s consistency. They’re fighting for money, it's often their second job.’ 

The quantity and variation of skill levels of the Thai women fighting in Chiang Mai has made it the perfect place for visitors or expats based here to earn their stripes, with Loi Kroh, Kalare and Night Bazaar stadiums always matching a local fighter with an international one. In Phuket or Bangkok you’re more likely to see foreigner versus foreigner. 

‘Chiang Mai is the Mecca for women’s Muay Thai. You can go to Thailand, you can train anywhere, but Chiang Mai is where you’ll fight most often, no matter where in the country you're based,’ adds Sarah.

Sarah’s been fighting in Thailand for seven years. Do you ever stop keeping count of your fights? ‘No. I always do,’ she laughs. ‘I've had 39 fights but I mix my amateur and professional.’ Sarah believes Chiang Mai has always been more accepting of women in the sport. ‘When you’ve got a female referee here, you’re more likely to see two Thai women fight each other here, there’s just more women's presence. It's really nurturing.’ 

Historically, the stadiums of the capital city were very different. ‘If you look back, not that long ago, five or six years ago, women didn't have opportunities to fight in Bangkok,’ she remembers. A lot has changed since then, with Sarah, who trains and fights for Manop Gym in Chiang Mai, traveling down to Bangkok on the weekends in her new role as a pundit, providing commentary for globally renowned ONE Championship tournaments in the capital, the first woman ever in that post.

With journeys as inspiring as Sarah’s and Teresa’s – and a tournament scene that’s more welcoming to women of all abilities than anywhere else in Thailand – it’s clear to see why Chiang Mai is leading this traditionally male-dominated sport. Get your wraps on ladies – the floor is yours.