Lucie Grace

Whether you’re a Chiang Mai local or just passing through, finding a top tier yet well priced massage (okay, we mean cheap) is a Golden Fleece-level quest in this town. If you’re lucky enough to have the lowdown on where to get an excellent massage for under B300, you better hope your masseuse doesn’t move on, as the staff turnover struggle is real.  Luckily, the old city is home to such mythical treatments, right under our noses. There’s a handful of humble temple massage spots where skilled aunties – and sometimes uncles – offer hour-long Thai massage from as little as B150. And while they’re not the most glamorous spots on the wellness circuit, they each offer something special. Here’s a breakdown of our favourites. 

Two parlours, both alike in dignity, in fair Wat Si Koet, where they rub your feet. As this 17th century temple was built in the shadow of majestic royal Wat Phra Singh, the peaceful Wat Si Koet complex is easy to miss. It’s only Sundays that see people flood in, when its courtyard turns into a busy food court at the Walking Street Night Market. But you'll be overjoyed to know that the unassuming temple is actually home to two massage parlours – Rompho Thai Massage on the left of the entrance gate and Sigoet Massage on the right. They're both similar in stature and appearance, looking vaguely greenhouse-esque with glass sliding doors for walls, and both have friendly and very skilled staff.  Rompho is larger so it's more likely you'll be able to walk in and see a therapist sharpish. The smaller Sigoet is air conditioned and has a longer menu, offering Tok Sen and oil massage. Price-wise, Sigoet Massage is B10 more than Rompho – one suspects to cover the aircon bill. Also there's an amulet seller between the two massage parlours so you can browse for a new amulet or mala beads while you wait for a spot at either of the two. Rom Pho Massage. B150-220. Inside Wat Si Koet, Rachadamnoen Road. 9am-7pm, closed Sundays. Sigoet Massage. B160-250. Inside Wat Si Koet, Rachadamnoen Road. 9am-6pm.  

We’ve got a real soft spot for Wat Pan Whaen Thai Massage as it holds status as ‘old faithful’ for many of us for many years. As it’s the largest of Chiang Mai’s temple massage halls it does get busy, but you can often walk in and nab an appointment, particularly in the low, rainy season.  It’s a huge, long hall, with over a dozen  people being treated at any given time. The staff seems to change a lot (apart from the legendary auntie on reception, we love her) but you generally get absolute diamonds working here. There’s a private space cornered off for oil massage, but locals are in for Tok Sen – the sound of multiple hammers in unison is a very Wat Pan Whaen soundtrack. So it’s not a luxurious or tranquil place but it’s a staple of Chiang Mai’s ancient healing spaces and we are grateful for that.  Wat Pan Whaen Thai Massage. B180-300. Phra Pok Klao Rd Soi 4. 9am-6pm

Undeniably one of the most impressive temples in Chiang Mai, Wat Sri Suphan is sometimes referred to as the Silver Temple because – you guessed it – it’s plated with ‘silver’. It’s actually nickel and aluminium but it’s more impressive if you suspend your disbelief. Just off Wua Lai Road, this large complex is popular with tourists,  but we’re here for the quintessentially northern Thai treatment: tok sen massage.  Being hit with a small wooden hammer isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but it’s known to sort out the stickiest of aches and pains, especially if you come to this spot. As you enter the main ornate gate head along the lane that runs down the left side of the complex, past silverworkers selling their wares to find Tok Sen Wat Srisuphan, a tiny space where miracle workers named Nun and Su offer the best tok sen in the city. They’re usually booked up one week in advance so it’s best to enlist a Thai-speaking friend to help make a reservation by phone.  Tok Sen Wat Srisuphan. B100-350. Booking 0832598289. Wua Lai Road. 10am-5pm. 

If you've ever spent much time in the old city you'll likely have noticed the golden horses that guard the walls of a temple on the north side of the moat. Well, Wat Mo Kham Tuang is just next door, subtle in comparison but with a dinky massage parlour tucked away in the back. It's extremely quiet and calm, a veritable oasis with a soothing water fountain bubbling away inside – and surrounded by plants for an added forest feel.  Aside from the sweet aunties who work here, the main appeal is that they offer a low-cost Thai herbal ball massage. The herb-stuffed compress technique is simply excellent for aching muscles or injuries as it’s much more gentle than the clicks and clacks of traditional Thai massage. To avoid the bustling moat traffic use the hobbit-sized entrance on the back alley. There's also an in-house fortune teller at this temple, just next to the parlour, who gives donation-based astrological readings – but only in Thai. Wat Mo Kham Tuang Massage. B250-350. Sri Poom Road. 9am-7pm.

This nautically themed temple – spot the junk boat statues dotted around – is on the eastern flank of the old city, primely located near Thapae Gate. Probably due to this touristy neighbourhood, Wat Samphao isn’t as cheap as the other temple massages but we do rate them highly for their extremely smiley staff, comfy as heck recliners and multi-lingual workers.  If you’re still working on your basic Thai or don’t have Google Translate at hand, this is a good one to try. Their medium-sized hall doesn't feel squished; there’s plenty of space and – drum roll, please – they have a loyalty program! If you get your card stamped 10 times, your 11th massage is free.  You can’t say fairer than that. Wat Samphao Massage. B190-280. Ratchapakhinai Road. 8am-5.45pm.