Lucie Grace

Rain is once again falling on our heads and the temptation to stay indoors and hibernate is oh so strong. But if you don your best raincoat and fight the urge to hide away ‘til September, there’s still plenty of top tier things to do in Chiang Mai during rainy season.  Whether it’s staying active, indulging in some R&R, making something cool for your house or topping up your cultural cachet at film screenings – Chiang Mai is packed with a fun array of hobbies and activities to occupy your boredom in these wetter months. So ditch the Netflix subscription and check out our fave things to do in the city this rainy season instead.  

Whether you’re a Chiang Mai local or just passing through, finding a top tier yet well priced massage (okay, we mean cheap) is a Golden Fleece-level quest in this town. If you’re lucky enough to have the lowdown on where to get an excellent massage for under B300, you better hope your masseuse doesn’t move on, as the staff turnover struggle is real.  Luckily, the old city is home to such mythical treatments, right under our noses. There’s a handful of humble temple massage spots where skilled aunties – and sometimes uncles – offer hour-long Thai massage from as little as B150. And while they’re not the most glamorous spots on the wellness circuit, they each offer something special. Here’s a breakdown of our favourites. 

Yes, we all know about SFX Cinema (book that sofa seat at the back, lovebirds), but there's some excellent new arthouse cinema clubs to get busy with this drizzle season. Dude, Movie are a film screening collective who’ve been programming a diverse array of independent flicks at venues across the city; recently showing The Lost Princess (about the last princess of Chiang Mai, Chao Duang Duen) at Chiang Mai Cultural Centre and All the Beauty and the Bloodshed (a Nan Goldin documentary) at Sapphic Riot. Their Facebook page is one to keep an eye on for all upcoming showings.  F.R.A.M.E Film Club has also been showing some sassy classics at Fellowship Cafe. Recent months have seen David Lynch’s Eraserhead and Mattieu Kassovitz’s La Haine both screened with post-film discussions hosted among engaged crowds. Come for the movies, stay for the chat and grab a bit of delicious Indian grub from their cafe at the same time. It’s about as snug as rainy season nights get. For read more link: https://www.facebook.com/framefilmclubcnx 

Now that you’re on a roll with the handmade home decor, pop along to ceramics sanctuary, Mitt Studio, another inner city spot protected from the rain. The bright airy space is very much indoors (aka dry) and an inviting place to spend a wet day thanks to the wide range of courses, workshops and sessions you can book. From classics like their weekly wheel class, to the boozier, twice weekly ‘sip and clay’; or the much loved matcha bowl workshop – there’s loads for beginners to get stuck into here. And if you’re clay-averse, come and paint a pot instead for B150. There’s a shelf of pre-fired pieces of different shapes, sizes and uses that you can decorate and take home with you. Prices for clay courses start from B850 plus the price of the homeware you choose. Mitt Studio. B150-B850. 21 Soi Ratchamanka 1. 9.30am-6.30pm. Closed Mon-Tues.  For read more link: https://www.facebook.com/mittstudio.cnx/ 

Missing the thrill of outdoor sports or just need to work off some energy? 50Fly Chiang Mai is a 1,000-square-metre trampoline park and laser tag room that’s not just for kids. Sure it’s extremely kid-friendly – with summer schools and coaching available for the small people – but it’s equally popular among adult groups too, with hockey and rugby club socials regularly held here. Trampolining is infectious fun, plus proven to give better posture, enhance balance and improve flexibility so it’s not just play – you’re getting your gains in.  Our favourite thing to do is bouncing up to the basketball hoops and trying new tricks on the stronger Olympic nets (that throw you higher into the air), all absolutely exhilarating. It’s B300 for an hour of springing or B500 for a 90-minute lesson of acrobatics, gymnastics, trampolining or parkour. Saturdays and Sundays are of course the busiest times so aim for a weekday visit if you want more space to ‘fly’. 50Fly. B300-B500 per hour. Inside Lotus Hang Dong. 11am-8pm. For read more link: https://www.facebook.com/50FLYChiangMai/ 

Avoid getting soaked outside and warm up with a soak on the inside instead. Whether you need to warm up after a downpour or are just having a big old work week; there’s no time like the present to treat yourself to a trip to an onsen –  the Japanese bathing experience that’s sweeping Thailand by storm (pun intended, sorry).    The onsen and cold plunge at Looper Swimming Pool (B250 for a day pass) are old favourites but not quite the bath house vibe we’re seeking, and the sento-style pools at Hokka-An Sauna & Steam in Santhitam (B450) are handy but given they’re in a condo building’s basement, they lack any atmosphere. So all hail the new kid on the block, Nozawa Hostel and Onsen, which takes this year’s prize for best bathing spot. The Japanese-themed accommodation opened in October 2024, but you don’t have to be a guest to soak here. Its idyllic garden has three pools: medium 26-38C, hot 40-42C and cold 15-17C, plus a really legit steam room and piping hot sauna where drizzling water on the stones is A-okay. It’s B450 for one day pass (up to 4 hours), but B2,700 for a batch of 10 which is a steal if you add up the difference. As there’s only one onsen to share between genders, women’s sessions run daily from 1-5pm with men following on from 5pm-midnight. Nozawa Hostel and Onsen. B450 for one day pass. 7 Mae Khua Mung Road, Chang Phuak. 1pm-midnight.  For read more link: https://sites.google.com/view/nozawaonsen   

buying a cheapo replacement and make your own! An extremely therapeutic way to spend a cloudy day, rug making (aka tufting) should be top of any rainy season to do list, and there’s nowhere better in Chiang Mai than Aladdin Studio art centre. Kate and her creative staff have moved from their space in Hang Dong into a new bright atrium in the heart of the old city, ready to teach you this new skill. You can choose from a range of their designs, which include everything from cute Studio Ghibli characters to colour-popping ‘70s landscapes. You’re also free to come with your own personal image to weave. Carpet and rug making starts from B2,500 or you could try crafting a coaster first for B590. Aladdin Studio. B590-B2,500. Hug Academy space, 6 Jhaban Road. 10am-8pm. For read more link: https://aladdinworkshop.com/   

We’ve got a real soft spot for Wat Pan Whaen Thai Massage as it holds status as ‘old faithful’ for many of us for many years. As it’s the largest of Chiang Mai’s temple massage halls it does get busy, but you can often walk in and nab an appointment, particularly in the low, rainy season.  It’s a huge, long hall, with over a dozen  people being treated at any given time. The staff seems to change a lot (apart from the legendary auntie on reception, we love her) but you generally get absolute diamonds working here. There’s a private space cornered off for oil massage, but locals are in for Tok Sen – the sound of multiple hammers in unison is a very Wat Pan Whaen soundtrack. So it’s not a luxurious or tranquil place but it’s a staple of Chiang Mai’s ancient healing spaces and we are grateful for that.  Wat Pan Whaen Thai Massage. B180-300. Phra Pok Klao Rd Soi 4. 9am-6pm

Undeniably one of the most impressive temples in Chiang Mai, Wat Sri Suphan is sometimes referred to as the Silver Temple because – you guessed it – it’s plated with ‘silver’. It’s actually nickel and aluminium but it’s more impressive if you suspend your disbelief. Just off Wua Lai Road, this large complex is popular with tourists,  but we’re here for the quintessentially northern Thai treatment: tok sen massage.  Being hit with a small wooden hammer isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but it’s known to sort out the stickiest of aches and pains, especially if you come to this spot. As you enter the main ornate gate head along the lane that runs down the left side of the complex, past silverworkers selling their wares to find Tok Sen Wat Srisuphan, a tiny space where miracle workers named Nun and Su offer the best tok sen in the city. They’re usually booked up one week in advance so it’s best to enlist a Thai-speaking friend to help make a reservation by phone.  Tok Sen Wat Srisuphan. B100-350. Booking 0832598289. Wua Lai Road. 10am-5pm. 

If you've ever spent much time in the old city you'll likely have noticed the golden horses that guard the walls of a temple on the north side of the moat. Well, Wat Mo Kham Tuang is just next door, subtle in comparison but with a dinky massage parlour tucked away in the back. It's extremely quiet and calm, a veritable oasis with a soothing water fountain bubbling away inside – and surrounded by plants for an added forest feel.  Aside from the sweet aunties who work here, the main appeal is that they offer a low-cost Thai herbal ball massage. The herb-stuffed compress technique is simply excellent for aching muscles or injuries as it’s much more gentle than the clicks and clacks of traditional Thai massage. To avoid the bustling moat traffic use the hobbit-sized entrance on the back alley. There's also an in-house fortune teller at this temple, just next to the parlour, who gives donation-based astrological readings – but only in Thai. Wat Mo Kham Tuang Massage. B250-350. Sri Poom Road. 9am-7pm.

This nautically themed temple – spot the junk boat statues dotted around – is on the eastern flank of the old city, primely located near Thapae Gate. Probably due to this touristy neighbourhood, Wat Samphao isn’t as cheap as the other temple massages but we do rate them highly for their extremely smiley staff, comfy as heck recliners and multi-lingual workers.  If you’re still working on your basic Thai or don’t have Google Translate at hand, this is a good one to try. Their medium-sized hall doesn't feel squished; there’s plenty of space and – drum roll, please – they have a loyalty program! If you get your card stamped 10 times, your 11th massage is free.  You can’t say fairer than that. Wat Samphao Massage. B190-280. Ratchapakhinai Road. 8am-5.45pm.

Two parlours, both alike in dignity, in fair Wat Si Koet, where they rub your feet. As this 17th century temple was built in the shadow of majestic royal Wat Phra Singh, the peaceful Wat Si Koet complex is easy to miss. It’s only Sundays that see people flood in, when its courtyard turns into a busy food court at the Walking Street Night Market. But you'll be overjoyed to know that the unassuming temple is actually home to two massage parlours – Rompho Thai Massage on the left of the entrance gate and Sigoet Massage on the right. They're both similar in stature and appearance, looking vaguely greenhouse-esque with glass sliding doors for walls, and both have friendly and very skilled staff.  Rompho is larger so it's more likely you'll be able to walk in and see a therapist sharpish. The smaller Sigoet is air conditioned and has a longer menu, offering Tok Sen and oil massage. Price-wise, Sigoet Massage is B10 more than Rompho – one suspects to cover the aircon bill. Also there's an amulet seller between the two massage parlours so you can browse for a new amulet or mala beads while you wait for a spot at either of the two. Rom Pho Massage. B150-220. Inside Wat Si Koet, Rachadamnoen Road. 9am-7pm, closed Sundays. Sigoet Massage. B160-250. Inside Wat Si Koet, Rachadamnoen Road. 9am-6pm.  

Arriving in a very sleepy Chiang Mai one bright November day in 2021, it was clear to this newcomer that I’d rocked up in a creative city, but perhaps one that was slowly stretching its limbs and coming out of hibernation.  Only a few live music venues had survived 2020, and any thoughts I had of record shopping or spinning were a distant, pre-pandemic memory. DJing and record collecting was something I’d left behind in Europe, surely not on the cards again in the near future. Oh how wrong I was.  Chiang Mai’s vinyl revival is now in full swing with seemingly unstoppable momentum. A vibrant community of devoted wax lovers have launched stores, listening bars, festivals and record labels – each one determined to put the city on the global map as a music destination. Through collaboration and commitment, it seems to be working.  Photograph: Deaf Shop Centrifugal to the scene, Deaf Shop is now a local institution for vinyl lovers. Opening their doors in May 2022, owner Mum Pimolpud came with years of working in Bangkok’s music industry and her partner Laurens Brouwer, DJ and founder of independent label Liquorish Records, came with a colossal record collection. Inspired by a trip to Japan, they decided to open their own listening bar, where customers now pour in for a drink, a dance and the chance to select an LP they want to hear, from the rows of racks that line one side of their venue. It was a brave move in a city that was still finding its feet. ‘No one was waiting for th