Lucie Grace

Given the mountains of Chiang Mai are simply bubbling with geothermal hot springs, you’d think that the city would have been bathing mad since the year dot. But it seems that a local love of all things Japanese, coupled with the global boom of the wellness industry post-2020 are to thank for the recent explosion of onsens appearing in and around the city – traditional Japanese spas known for hot baths, saunas and the odd ice plunge. Never ones to miss a new trend, we’re fully embracing the city’s pash for bathing culture, but out of respect for Japan, must note the term ‘onsen’ is sometimes used a little liberally here. In Japan, onsen are baths full of natural hot spring water, however our shortlist includes a few that are better described as onsen-adjacent – with all the hallmarks and experience of an onsen, but without the natural spring water on tap. And unlike the bath houses of our East Asian neighbour, tattoos are allowed in all the spots here – we’re visiting Japan in spirit and that’s good enough for us.

Every mighty metropolis needs an artistic enclave, where for one reason or another, creatives elect to live, work and play. Think Paris’ Southbank, or New York’s Brooklyn in its heyday. Chiang Mai is no different and while we could argue that the whole city is a creative hub, one neighbourhood certainly stands out. Enter: Pong Noi, the leafy green village that stretches between Wat Umong and Wat Pong Noi, winding around the roads (pong noi meaning little curve or bend) in the foothills of our majestic Doi Suthep. It’s an easy going little hamlet that’s generally off the tourist trail, and is inherently calming while having a lot going on – so if you’re looking to spend some time in a part of the city that’s a little more calm and rustic, then explore our Chiang Mai neighbourhood guide to Pong Noi below. What’s Pong Noi known for? These days, when you first hear of Pong Noi, it’s either an invite to a creative workshop, an art event or because pizza is calling. Adirak Pizza has undoubtedly put the ‘hood on the map in the past couple of years and for good reason.  Why do the locals love it? Pong Noi folks will happily spend all week in their neighbourhood as it has everything they could possibly need – great coffee, great food, loads of entertainment and nature in extremely close proximity, if not their back garden. How do I get to the area? Pong Noi is the furthest west point of Suthep, wedged between Canal Road and the mountain. It’s just a 10-minute motorbike ride west of th

Last week we featured the people behind Chiang Mai’s burgeoning vinyl revival - but now we have you excited about the scene, how can you lock in and build your very own collection? Very easily in fact.  The city is awash with vinyl listening bars, cafes and restaurants awaiting you - some that let you select an LP, some that curate the experience and kindly ask you to keep your mitts to yourselves. Then of course there are the record stores holding the market together with boxes upon boxes of wax discs, many of which come with sound systems in situ and buckets of experienced enthusiasm. Here are our favourite vinyl spots in Chiang Mai.

Rain is once again falling on our heads and the temptation to stay indoors and hibernate is oh so strong. But if you don your best raincoat and fight the urge to hide away ‘til September, there’s still plenty of top tier things to do in Chiang Mai during rainy season.  Whether it’s staying active, indulging in some R&R, making something cool for your house or topping up your cultural cachet at film screenings – Chiang Mai is packed with a fun array of hobbies and activities to occupy your boredom in these wetter months. So ditch the Netflix subscription and check out our fave things to do in the city this rainy season instead.  

Whether you’re a Chiang Mai local or just passing through, finding a top tier yet well priced massage (okay, we mean cheap) is a Golden Fleece-level quest in this town. If you’re lucky enough to have the lowdown on where to get an excellent massage for under B300, you better hope your masseuse doesn’t move on, as the staff turnover struggle is real.  Luckily, the old city is home to such mythical treatments, right under our noses. There’s a handful of humble temple massage spots where skilled aunties – and sometimes uncles – offer hour-long Thai massage from as little as B150. And while they’re not the most glamorous spots on the wellness circuit, they each offer something special. Here’s a breakdown of our favourites. 

This Santitham apartment building has a self-proclaimed sento (Japanese bath house that doesn’t use natural hot spring water, but heated tap water) on its ground floor and while it may be the least elegant, the fact it’s fully indoors has served us well over the years. It’s our pick for burning season when life is best spent indoors. The place is split into two zones, one for men and one for women, and it’s the only public bath in the city you can visit naked, or use the disposable undies given to you. Handy if you’re not packing any swimwear. The B450 entry fee means it’s usually pretty quiet so you’ll often find you have the sento to yourself, which includes two hot pools, a chilled pool (no ice in sight, don’t worry) and a little sauna. They also provide two towels free of charge and you don’t need to book in advance, so the function over form reigns supreme here, putting Hokka-An squarely in our hearts. 11 Thongkaw Rd, Santitham. B450. Details here. 1pm-10pm. 

Wat Ket’s award winning spa (just check out the trophy cabinet in the spa reception area if you need proof) is part of the facilities at lux hotel, Rarinjinda, which takes wellness very seriously. Thankfully, you don’t have to be a hotel guest to use the elegant spa’s onsen area – a circuit of three pools: the 40-42C ‘Hot Springs Pool’, the more gentle 36-38C ‘Carbonated Soda Spa Pool’ and the ‘Cold Water Pool’ that’s chilled to an easy 16C.  However, the onsen is only accessible as part of Rarinjinda’s ‘Hydro Treatment’ package, which comes in at a cool B1,770 but does include use of their steam rooms and the extremely swanky hydrotherapy pool – one of only two in the city. It’s a large indoor pool in an elevated conservatory-like space with eight separate stations of jet-streamed warm water. Start by massaging your feet, end at your neck then loop back for more.  1, 14 Chareonraj Road, Wat Ket. B1,770 for the 90 minute package. Booking via 053 247 000 or online. 10am-midnight.

The most affordable onsen in Chiang Mai (B250 for a one day pass) is also the cutest. The family vibes at Looper, from the portrait photography with Granny front and centre surrounded by her grandkids, to the tiny toy Yorkshire Terrier who ‘guards’ the office and features on the pool’s T-shirts with the warning ‘Dangerous Dog’, make it as approachable as it is fun. With a swimming pool, coffee shop, restaurant and mini gym all included in the price it’s a very wholesome day out, but it’s the onsen and cold bath we’re here for – the former heated to approximately 40C, while the latter maintained at a relatively pleasant 12-14C. Looper is a public hot bath so do expect to share it with up to 12 others, whose conversations vary in volume and subject matter. Generally, the regulars are friendly, respectful and as obsessed with contrast therapy as a health treatment as you’d expect. 144/49 Yu Yen Road, Jed Yot. B250 day pass. Details here. 7am-9pm.

Opening little over a year ago, the city’s newest branch of Sense is doing ‘affordable luxury’ like it’s going out of fashion. Using water from Umi Jigoku Onsen in Japan’s hot spring capital, Beppu, the mineral rich baths in the four private onsen rooms are infused with calcium, magnesium and sulphur.  This classy spa is one of the few on our list that is a real onsen, thanks to its mineral water. It is sleek in design, with a serene soundscape,  gentle lighting and a fragrance that should be bottled – all colliding to make these baths the fanciest in town. Prices are also very reasonable, and a session here is worth it for the privacy and moments of pure chill alone. The lovely team say it’s best to call them to reserve, either the day before you plan to bathe or in the morning if you want to visit that evening: they’re open until 11pm daily, with last entry at 10pm. 8, 1 Suan Dok Road, Suthep. B450 for one hour private onsen bath. Bookings via  081 884 4460 or online, 11am-11pm. 

This utterly zen, Japanese-style ryokan sits in the terraced hills of Mon Jam, just 40 minutes from the city centre. The peaceful wellness resort is home to three onsen baths that are the real deal, filled with local hot spring water.  Day guests (not staying at the hotel but stopping by for a soak) can book them in advance: there’s one private space, Onsen in the Garden, that comes at a punchy price tag but is ideal for family groups or special occasions, or aptly named The Onsen, a public, more traditional pool that’s separated into men’s and women’s areas.  There’s also an outdoor foot onsen that overlooks their duck pond and cute Japanese gardens. If you’re splashing the cash and staying at the lux property overnight (lucky you), some rooms come with an ensuite onsen of their own. Advance reservations are highly recommended, and outside guests can only book onsen facilities from 8am-6pm daily.   293, 4051 Pong Yaeng, Mae Rim. B500 entry for The Onsen, B800 private Onsen in the Garden. Reserve a slot via 053 111 606. 8am-6pm daily.  

Tucked away in a quiet nook between trees and ferns, under a canopy of ivy, the newly installed teak wood hot bath offers an onsen-esque experience in the spa's most idyllic corner. Heated to approximately 43C and filled with water infused with Epsom salts and magnesium, this addition to Old City Spa is our favourite of their heat contrast therapies. Rotate between the hot water barrel and the yard’s ice bath that sits at  a crisp 1C, or heat up in the Thai herbal steam room, regularly topped up with ginger, lime and lemongrass.  Most days, the space is filled with sauna-loving Muay Thai folk who head here for the Finnish and infrared sweat boxes, so our advice is to arrive early morning when they're all in training and you’ll have the place to yourself. Thankfully, visitors are capped at 20 people max, so whatever the crowd, serenity still rules.  65 Intrawarorot Road, Old City. B450 for two hours. Booking and details here. 10am-10pm. 

Given that Chiang Mai’s coffee scene has been popping for a decade now, it’ll come as no surprise that Pong Noi has excellent cafes that meet all your caffeine needs. Local chain GRAPH Baankangwat has a minimalist vibe while our favourite Ram Poeng Cafe is packed full of piles on cassette tapes and players – the collection belongs to the kindly owners who don’t mind taking musical requests as you enjoy your brew. Sensation Coffee Roasters and MaliPai Roastery & Cafe bring up the helm with fantastic home roasted local beans. Not a coffee drinker? Mini Juice Bar has got your back, and your five-a-day. Or if you’re in the market for a stiff drink later in the evening Sucha Bar and Blablabar, behind Lansieow Freeative Art Space, have quite the late night vibe.

The old city this ain’t. But there’s a few options of places to rest your head, from the sublime to the really really ridiculously sublime. One of the finest stays and wellness retreats in Northern Thailand, Aleenta Retreat Chiang Mai, sits just north of Wat Umong and is a healthy, rejuvenating stay of the most lux variety that you simply won’t want to leave. For the more budget conscious, the poorly named B2 Suthep Night Market Premier Resort is actually a winner - their crisp, resort style rooms around the swish swimming pool are super friendly on the wallet. Or for the tent loving amongst you, glamping spot Camp Cayla Eden really makes the most of Pong Noi’s bucolic views, but with all your creature comforts in their fancy, air-conditioned tents.

You’ve probably heard of some of the restaurants and venues that sit in a circle within Lansieow Freeative Art Space, an open air hub that’s been putting the neighbourhood on the map the past few years. Its cornerstone is experimental performance spot Kindred Studio that hosts a weekly improv night, monthly poetry and spoken word night called Magic Theatre, and live music across the spectrum of genres, all in their cosy living room-esque walls. It’s a real ‘come as a stranger, leave as a friend’ vibe. The outside space at Lansieow is just as community focused, with the lovelies from Green Dog Dispensary putting on regular events from corn-hole competitions to an annual dog show, Furry Friends. If visual arts are more your thing, Pongnoi Community Art Space, tucked behind the temple, Wat Pong Noi, is home to four gallery spaces that show ceramics, illustration, paintings and more, with exhibitions from visiting artists and recent CMU graduates. Another one for your gallery radar is 31st Century Museum, a contemporary arts space with thought provoking installations at the temporary exhibitions in this high-ceiled house conversion. And if you're in need of a relaxing afternoon, book in for a treat at The Pattern Thai Massage, who’ve created a blissful sanctuary in a residential corner off the main road. Or, if you’re feeling spiritual, pop to Wat Umong and Wat Pongnoi to meditate and call in some post shopping spree zen.

Laid back cafe by day and cool cocktail bar by night, The Toys Club is a collectors’ heaven, packed full of retro games and consoles – mostly from Japan. Its owner DJ Bird’s vinyl collection we’re here for though. He recently moved his records from his former bar First Press, so expect lots of jazz, funk and city pop. He’s added hip-hop, house and more electro flavours to the shelves though (with a few select records you can buy), and hosts an eclectic lineup of travelling DJs that cover everything from funk to drum and bass. So any day you like, pull up a bar stool and come watch the DJs spin, almost every night.  46/1 San Pa Koi Road.  10am-midnight. Closed Mon. 

Jed Yot’s coolest cafe by a mile was founded by DJ and record collector Khun OG, who opened this coffee and vinyl hotspot way ahead of the curve, eight years ago. Two baristas diligently serve up dripped brews, made from their own CNX roasted beans, next to shelves of OG’s hip-hop, soul and funk LPs, which he pops in to spin most mornings. He also hosts guest DJs in the dinky cafe, where street art lines the walls and punters often spill out onto the street outside.  144/55 Yu Yen Road. Open daily 8am-5pm.

Just around the corner from Deaf Shop, this double decker for music lovers provides a two in one: Nuii Bar downstairs has an extensive food menu and solid selection of guest DJs (no turntables, just laptops) but if you potter up the wooden staircase of this lush traditional house conversion, Fung Record Bar is all analogue, all the time. Fung is more of a sit down and enjoy a Beatles-themed high-ball cocktail and a chat sort of place, but the speakers are good and the tunes rock. 46 Pra Pok Klao Road Soi 1. Open daily 6.30pm-midnight.  

Arriving in a very sleepy Chiang Mai one bright November day in 2021, it was clear to this newcomer that I’d rocked up in a creative city, but perhaps one that was slowly stretching its limbs and coming out of hibernation.  Only a few live music venues had survived 2020, and any thoughts I had of record shopping or spinning were a distant, pre-pandemic memory. DJing and record collecting was something I’d left behind in Europe, surely not on the cards again in the near future. Oh how wrong I was.  Chiang Mai’s vinyl revival is now in full swing with seemingly unstoppable momentum. A vibrant community of devoted wax lovers have launched stores, listening bars, festivals and record labels – each one determined to put the city on the global map as a music destination. Through collaboration and commitment, it seems to be working.  Photograph: Deaf Shop Centrifugal to the scene, Deaf Shop is now a local institution for vinyl lovers. Opening their doors in May 2022, owner Mum Pimolpud came with years of working in Bangkok’s music industry and her partner Laurens Brouwer, DJ and founder of independent label Liquorish Records, came with a colossal record collection. Inspired by a trip to Japan, they decided to open their own listening bar, where customers now pour in for a drink, a dance and the chance to select an LP they want to hear, from the rows of racks that line one side of their venue. It was a brave move in a city that was still finding its feet. ‘No one was waiting for th