Lucie Grace is a freelance culture, lifestyle and travel writer, working for UK and US newspapers and magazines including The Guardian, The i Paper, The Independent, National Geographic Traveller and USA Today. She's co-authored eight books for Lonely Planet and has two of her own projects published by Hoxton Mini Press. When not loitering in the co-working spaces of Chiang Mai she can be found in a hot spring or enthusing about Thailand's modernist architecture to anyone who'll listen.

Lucie Grace

Lucie Grace

Freelance writer, Time Out Thailand

Articles (12)

Chiang Mai’s best day trips to reconnect with nature

Chiang Mai’s best day trips to reconnect with nature

One of the great perks of spending any amount of time in Thailand’s northern capital is its close proximity to natural wonder. There are reams of great day trips to plot from Chiang Mai, many of which are less than an hour’s drive away from the city centre. With Songkran around the corner and burning season soon to be over (oh please, may the burning soon be over) – now is a great time to get planning cooler getaways. There’s even rumour that on the hills, the air quality is a little better – but either way planning for now or for once the smog has cleared has never been better timed.  From scenic mountain top cafes, valleys of waterfalls to rolling rice paddies – we’ve got some of Thailand’s favourite destinations on our doorstep – all great places to reconnect with nature in ways that aren’t ostentatiously over done. So get on your bike, catch a bus or hire a driver and work your way through our list of the best day trips from Chiang Mai right now, or for when the smoke clears. 
Chiang Mai’s best spas for all budgets

Chiang Mai’s best spas for all budgets

Burning season is upon us and with rainy season to soon follow, there’s no time like the present to prioritise indoor self care and float around the spas of the city. With spas, saunas, onsen and wellness centres on just about every street of our moderately-sized zen metropolis, narrowing it down was tough – especially when we take into account the cheaper spots. So we’ve done you a favour and gone for a range that spans all budgets. From the homely, local vibes at places like Heart N Soul to the most lux experiences in town at The Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, here’s a list of eight of our faves. We also singled out the spas that offer something special or prioritise traditional Lanna practices – given that Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, there’s a legacy of healing particular to the north, so why not make the most of it? You can get your oil massages anywhere. Tok Sen? That’s a niche to get into up here. Your limbs will thank you.  Pair your planning with seven of the best onsen in Chiang Mai
Hat Yai is back in business, and now is the time to visit

Hat Yai is back in business, and now is the time to visit

Hat Yai – the buzzing southern city recently hit by record-breaking floods – is back on its feet. And thanks to a new wave of young creatives determined to rebuild and reimagine it from the ground up, it’s quickly becoming one of Thailand’s most intriguing comeback stories. Thailand kicked off 2026 with record-breaking tourist numbers in the first two weeks of 2026, with Malaysians making the second largest source market for visitors after the Chinese, many crossing the southern border in search of a weekend escape. And instead of flying north to Phuket or Bangkok, more are pulling up in Hat Yai. So, on a recent trip organised by the Tourism Authority of Thailand, I headed south to see what’s new – and arrived just in time for Chinese New Year, a festival that runs surprisingly deep here. Dazzled by orange, red and electric-blue fireworks, I arrived straight into the action – firecrackers popping at my feet and a huge dancing dragon, powered by 20-odd impossibly nimble teenagers. The show is on a main thoroughfare in downtown Hat Yai, where a lot of links to China can be found, with gorgeous shrines and temples dotted at regular intervals. Photograph: Tourism Authority of Thailand For context: on November 22, the city and surrounding area – including the UNESCO listed, historic city Songkhla – received the highest rainfall it’s ever seen in 300 years of recorded history, driven by La Nina conditions and increasingly volatile climate patterns. But as dragon dancers swirl thr
Where to celebrate New Year in Chiang Mai this year

Where to celebrate New Year in Chiang Mai this year

New Year’s Eve in Chiang Mai doesn’t stick to just one script – and that’s why we’re sharing a bit of everything to get you in the mood.    You can do the full movie-style moment under fireworks, lanterns and stage lights, dance your way into 2026 in a sweaty club corner, clink glasses over a long dinner or head for the hills to chant your way into a calmer, more enlightened version of yourself. Either way, Chiang Mai delivers every option for an end-of-year send-off that’s as varied as it is memorable – second only to the Thai New Year just a few months down the line.   From big-ticket countdowns and neighbourhood festivals to lantern-lit rituals and rooftop celebrations, here’s how Chiang Mai is welcoming 2026. Choose wisely. Or don’t. It’s only New Year’s Eve. 
Not your average silent night: Alternative ways to celebrate Christmas in Chiang Mai

Not your average silent night: Alternative ways to celebrate Christmas in Chiang Mai

Christmas in Chiang Mai might lack snowflakes and woolly jumpers, but it makes up for the lack of frost with sunshine, cocktails and a calendar bursting with events. Sure, the midday heat is real and Santa has likely swapped his red suit for a Hawaiian shirt, but the city is firmly in festive mode. Get ready for a packed few days of feasting, drinking, dancing and zero excuses to stay home.   You can absolutely do Christmas the classic way – piling plates high at indulgent spreads at Skugga Estate, Anantara or Melia – but that’s just the starting point. Elsewhere, Christmas Eve spills onto rooftops, into tiki bars and across dancefloors, with DJ-led blowouts, jungle parties, fire shows, markets and Chiang Mai-style celebrations that are far more exciting than sitting through another rerun on the sofa.   We say skip the stay-at-home movie marathon and lean into the tropics. Whether it’s refreshing rooftop cocktails, basslines till late, Christmas dinners with a twist or playing bar games into the night, this is December in Thailand – and Chiang Mai is doing it its own way. 
How Chiang Mai became the punchy capital of women's Muay Thai

How Chiang Mai became the punchy capital of women's Muay Thai

The mighty triangle of Thailand’s front row Muay Thai destinations – Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket – are busier than ever and for women in the sport, it all points north. Long established as a Muay Thai epicentre, Chiang Mai has been racing ahead of late as the frontrunner for female fighters. The north is making waves thanks to its women-led training gyms and vast numbers of local and international girls competing with more regular ‘lady fights’ than anywhere else in the country. We’ve even got the first female commentator of the ONE Championships in town – commuting down to BKK for her suited and booted, mic-wielding role. But how did Chiang Mai come to take centre stage?   Photograph: AKA Two-time World Muay Thai Council champion Teresa Wintermyr remembers visiting the north in 2007 and training in Pai for a month before having her first Chiang Mai fight. ‘Back then it was not common for women to fight at all. There were fight events almost every day and there'd be maybe one female fight every two weeks,’ she recollects, beaming. ‘I didn't mean for it to become a career, I just kept doing it.’ After gaining an impressive collection of belts and trophies she opened Sedthee Fight Club with her partner Sedthee Erawan (also a champion fighter). In the midst of a dwindling pandemic, they opened Chiang Mai’s first gym with an English-speaking female trainer. Word got around town that world champion Teresa, who’d been a regular on the fight circuit for over 15 years, was now a
Pong Noi: Your ultimate neighbourhood guide

Pong Noi: Your ultimate neighbourhood guide

Every mighty metropolis needs an artistic enclave, where for one reason or another, creatives elect to live, work and play. Think Paris’ Southbank, or New York’s Brooklyn in its heyday. Chiang Mai is no different and while we could argue that the whole city is a creative hub, one neighbourhood certainly stands out. Enter: Pong Noi, the leafy green village that stretches between Wat Umong and Wat Pong Noi, winding around the roads (pong noi meaning little curve or bend) in the foothills of our majestic Doi Suthep. It’s an easy going little hamlet that’s generally off the tourist trail, and is inherently calming while having a lot going on – so if you’re looking to spend some time in a part of the city that’s a little more calm and rustic, then explore our Chiang Mai neighbourhood guide to Pong Noi below. What’s Pong Noi known for? These days, when you first hear of Pong Noi, it’s either an invite to a creative workshop, an art event or because pizza is calling. Adirak Pizza has undoubtedly put the ‘hood on the map in the past couple of years and for good reason.  Why do the locals love it? Pong Noi folks will happily spend all week in their neighbourhood as it has everything they could possibly need – great coffee, great food, loads of entertainment and nature in extremely close proximity, if not their back garden. How do I get to the area? Pong Noi is the furthest west point of Suthep, wedged between Canal Road and the mountain. It’s just a 10-minute motorbike ride west of th
The best things to do in Chiang Mai this Halloween

The best things to do in Chiang Mai this Halloween

Is there anything better than Halloween on a Friday? Things might be a bit more muted this year, but the ghouls are still ghouling. From live music to murder mysteries, free ice cream (yes, you heard us) to pumpkin carving and soulful Day of the Dead celebrations to boot – Chiang Mai’s got Halloween on lock this year. The only truly scary part is deciding where to go. 
The 7 best onsen in Chiang Mai

The 7 best onsen in Chiang Mai

Given the mountains of Chiang Mai are simply bubbling with geothermal hot springs, you’d think that the city would have been bathing mad since the year dot. But it seems that a local love of all things Japanese, coupled with the global boom of the wellness industry post-2020 are to thank for the recent explosion of onsens appearing in and around the city – traditional Japanese spas known for hot baths, saunas and the odd ice plunge. Never ones to miss a new trend, we’re fully embracing the city’s pash for bathing culture, but out of respect for Japan, must note the term ‘onsen’ is sometimes used a little liberally here. In Japan, onsen are baths full of natural hot spring water, however our shortlist includes a few that are better described as onsen-adjacent – with all the hallmarks and experience of an onsen, but without the natural spring water on tap. And unlike the bath houses of our East Asian neighbour, tattoos are allowed in all the spots here – we’re visiting Japan in spirit and that’s good enough for us.
Chiang Mai’s top 11 places to dig for vinyl

Chiang Mai’s top 11 places to dig for vinyl

Last week we featured the people behind Chiang Mai’s burgeoning vinyl revival - but now we have you excited about the scene, how can you lock in and build your very own collection? Very easily in fact.  The city is awash with vinyl listening bars, cafes and restaurants awaiting you - some that let you select an LP, some that curate the experience and kindly ask you to keep your mitts to yourselves. Then of course there are the record stores holding the market together with boxes upon boxes of wax discs, many of which come with sound systems in situ and buckets of experienced enthusiasm. Here are our favourite vinyl spots in Chiang Mai.
The best things to do in Chiang Mai this rainy season

The best things to do in Chiang Mai this rainy season

Rain is once again falling on our heads and the temptation to stay indoors and hibernate is oh so strong. But if you don your best raincoat and fight the urge to hide away ‘til September, there’s still plenty of top tier things to do in Chiang Mai during rainy season.  Whether it’s staying active, indulging in some R&R, making something cool for your house or topping up your cultural cachet at film screenings – Chiang Mai is packed with a fun array of hobbies and activities to occupy your boredom in these wetter months. So ditch the Netflix subscription and check out our fave things to do in the city this rainy season instead.  
Chiang Mai’s top 5 temple massages

Chiang Mai’s top 5 temple massages

Whether you’re a Chiang Mai local or just passing through, finding a top tier yet well priced massage (okay, we mean cheap) is a Golden Fleece-level quest in this town. If you’re lucky enough to have the lowdown on where to get an excellent massage for under B300, you better hope your masseuse doesn’t move on, as the staff turnover struggle is real.  Luckily, the old city is home to such mythical treatments, right under our noses. There’s a handful of humble temple massage spots where skilled aunties – and sometimes uncles – offer hour-long Thai massage from as little as B150. And while they’re not the most glamorous spots on the wellness circuit, they each offer something special. Here’s a breakdown of our favourites. 

Listings and reviews (48)

Doi Pui

Doi Pui

Where is it? Just a little way beyond Wat Doi Suthep and down the other side of the mountain is the village and campsites of Doi Pui, a serene break from city life that’s not too far away. Why we love it: Well firstly it’s a great drive – the winding road to get there isn’t quite as dare devilish as the road to Pai but it’s thrill adjacent and a huge part of the fun. The air is cooler and (usually) fresher in Doi Poi. Bring a picnic and spend the day hiking to work up an appetite before chowing down in your snacks by the campsite on the hillside. If you’re into forest bathing it’s also a great destination to kick off your shoes and go walk between the trees. The area is home to a little Hmong village where you can wander through gardens and support the villagers by buying their local handicrafts and textiles, including cute handwoven bags, purses, and scarves. All of which are very eco-friendly, usually made from hemp or cotton and decorated with embroidery or batik patterns. Time Out tip: One of the best times to visit is during cherry blossom season, when pink ‘sakura’ flowers bloom across the hillsides of Khun Chang Khian, usually from late December to early February depending on the weather.
Lamphun

Lamphun

Where is it? Cross the River Ping in the southeast corner of the city and the  rather forgotten province of Lamphun begins. Older than Chiang Mai and full of wonderful sights, the centre of Lamphun is only a 30 minutes drive.   Why we love it: To be honest, the moments of natural wonder on this trip are the drives there and back work their way through green fields and riverside lanes – but only if you avoid the highway. The first stop should be The Terracotta Garden at Lamphun, which is surely the most over the top cafe in the country. A huge mock temple and grounds built from, you guessed it – terracotta. Home to a cafe that sells formidable cakes. Another spot for thrift fans is French House, a tiny cafe packed with all sorts of antiques, taxidermy and decor you can buy right from the shelf. Round the corner, Wat Chamadevi is a breath-taking historical site, known for its unique square pyramid-style chedi that’s believed to date back to the early Mon period. A Loy Krathong season favourite, Wat Phra That Hariphunchai is absolutely lantern laden all November, but worth visiting any time of year, its golden chedi is the resting place of a Buddha relic – a strand of hair is inside an urn within the chedi. Get your merit here.  Time Out tip: Ignore Google maps and drive back into Chiang Mai along the River Ping. The quiet road that follows the river, on its western bank might take a bit longer but it’s a glorious drive.
Vegan Meals

Vegan Meals

Last but by no means least, this humble little corner yard in the Old City is pure and simple – their food tastes incredible and is extremely cheap. Fresh produce, healthy vibes, usually generous with the garlic (please never stop), it’s the perfect drive by if you find yourself hungry in the town centre and wish to sit somewhere quiet, tucked away and under the radar. Let’s be honest, we can’t gatekeep these angels any longer.    27 Rachadamnoen Road, Soi 1, Old City. 10.30am-8.30pm. Closed Mondays.
29 Coffties Vegan

29 Coffties Vegan

This one often goes under the radar given it is a very small operation hidden in Santitham (it’s just the chef and the waiter) but, after surviving the pandemic by closing their restaurant and keeping a take away window open, they’re back to business with a newly-opened chapter to their story. Their cheap but fantastic dishes can still be enjoyed by order, but now with a sit-down diner once again, they’re officially claiming the throne for the best vegan summer rolls in Chiang Mai. But don’t take our word for it – just check out the wall covered in thank you notes for all the validation you need. Their menu is varied, but for us, it has to be the avocado vegan pesto sandwich that tops their lengthy breakfast menu.     11 / 2 Taewan Road, Santitham. 9.30am-7.30pm. Closed Sundays.
Aum Vegetarian Restaurant

Aum Vegetarian Restaurant

If you didn’t skip the intro, you’ll know this is Chiang Mai’s OG veggie spot. Three generations strong, Aum is the only vegetarian restaurant on our list (the rest are guaranteed vegan) but the menu is extremely vegan-friendly and, more importantly, started the meat-free dining movement in Chiang Mai over 40 years ago. But don’t let the age concern you. Their current incarnation is found in the family’s own house adjacent to Wua Lai Road, where delicious veggie and vegan versions of Thai favourites are served with love, straight from their family kitchen. We’re talking delectable massaman, pumpkin and green curries that will keep you coming back time and time again. It’s also a great go-to for vegans with friends who simply can’t go without some form of egg protein.   1/4 Suriyawong Alley, Haiya. 11am-8pm
Asa Vegan Kitchen

Asa Vegan Kitchen

This brunchy, earthy cafe makes the best vegan French toast in the city and make no mistake. If you prefer your breakfast a tad healthier though, chia pudding or smoothie bowls await – to be enjoyed with a delicious dairy-free Indian-style chai, naturally. The local Thai faves like vegan curries are excellent here too. And while the food is clearly the main draw, there’s also a yoga studio up the stairs. The vibe here is unmistakably cosy (where isn’t in Chiang Mai?) because there’s a family history here – the house goes back generations, once home to the owner’s grandmother before taking on a new, more public-facing life.    217 Tha Phae Road, Chiang Moi. 9.30am-7pm
Get crafty and clean by flexing your skills at this artisan soap-making workshop

Get crafty and clean by flexing your skills at this artisan soap-making workshop

We love a bit of crafts in Chiang Mai but there are always extra points when the chance to make something useful pops up. Enter the good folks at Attika Studio, who are hosting an artisanal soap making session at their lovely space this weekend. Digging into both the science and art behind it, the facilitators from Amara Soap share trade secrets on how to tailor a recipe to your specific needs. Whether you’re into making a shampoo bar, body scrub or face wash, there’s an inviting array of botanicals on hand to brew before you sculpt and shape your cleansing creation.   Jan 31. B490. Attika Studio. 10am-12pm
Onsen @ Moncham

Onsen @ Moncham

5 out of 5 stars
As ‘treat-yo-self’ city breaks in the north go, this is Chiang Mai’s finest; a transportative resort stay in idyllic surroundings where blissed out zen comes part and parcel. Onsen @ Moncham’s quintessentially Japanese themed experience doesn’t just extend to their hot spring pool onsen, but in every little detail, from dining to design. For Japanophiles or otherwise, it’s one not to miss.   Why stay at Onsen @ Moncham? Fulfilling the Japan trip dream after just a 45-minute drive northwest of Chiang Mai sounds impossible but this resort has managed it. Sprawling over their own little valley in gloriously scenic Mon Jam, the mountaintop village that’s 1,200 feet up, Onsen @ Moncham has all the features of a Japanese village but without the flight to get there. It’s green, serene and also delightfully posh, offering an elevated hotel stay (literally and metaphorically) like no other in the region. For many of us, the natural hot spring water at their onsen is the main draw, but for others it’s the cooler temperature, which averages five degrees celsius less than in the city below. But whatever your draw, it’ll be the exquisitely designed rooms, delectable Japanese dining and the ponds full of black swans and oshidori ducks in the bucolic gardens that will have you wishing you could stay for longer. It comes at a price tag but it’s a high-end stay that guarantees switching off from the outside world. What are the rooms like at Onsen @ Moncham? True to the ethos of a Japanese ryo
Art Mai? Gallery Hotel

Art Mai? Gallery Hotel

4 out of 5 stars
An aesthete's delight, Art Mai? Gallery Hotel oozes contemporary class, with zero whiff of stuffiness. It’s a hotel at heart, sure, but with a light fresh take on engaging with the arts, design is clearly the M.O.  Each floor is a love letter to art, designed and part-owned by some of Thailand’s most famous artists. Inside, everything great about Chiang Mai is on display. Sitting slap bang in the centre of Nimman, it has all the buzz you’d expect from such a trendy area, and the sweeping view of Doi Suthep from the oasis-esque rooftop pool is as gob-smacking as the paintings on the walls inside. Why stay at Art Mai? Gallery Hotel? For a fast tracked glimpse at the creative soul of the city, this is the place to stay. From the art gallery lobby to the artist signature rooms (each floor is designed by a different local artist – more on that later), down to the palate pleasing seasonal cocktails designed by the in-house mixologist in the hidden Surr bar, the vibes are absolutely Chiang Mai but with a fresh, fun, artistic take throughout.  Conceptualised by art lovers, for art lovers, there are quirky details at every turn. Artist’s rooms aside, this stay is just plain cool. From its brilliant location, the gripping design and delectable dining at Jarid Restaurant, Art Mai? Gallery Hotel quietly sits among the best mid-range hotels the city has to offer. What are the rooms like at Art Mai? Gallery Hotel? Art Mai? Gallery Hotel’s rooms range from playful to elegant, sleek to eccen
Art Gets Messy at Surr Bar

Art Gets Messy at Surr Bar

As a special entry for those who miss this Friday fun, the arty folks at Art Mai? are pulling out all the stops for a post-hallowed eve drink and paint session in November that’ll spook any self respecting 15th-century art critic. Tickets include a canvas and painting set, one signature cocktail and free-flow shots from 8pm-10pm. And while you can come as you are, dress up and you may get a little surprise from their terrifyingly good bartender, and with only 25 seats available, the competition is fierce but very personal.  Nov 14. B999, includes as listed above. Surr Bar, Art Mai? Gallery Hotel. 8pm-late. 
Pot Luck Halloween at Look Inside

Pot Luck Halloween at Look Inside

As if searching out the door to this sprawling bar wasn’t Scooby Doo enough, the legends at Look Inside are throwing a Halloween do again this year that’s absolutely action-packed. The crafty among you prick up your ears: there’s pumpkin carving in town (don’t worry – Eddie and the gang provide the pumpkins), followed by a spritely costume competition and for the brave, mystery trick or treat shots. The kind spirits (get it?) are also hosting a pot luck early doors so bring a plate of something delicious if you want to get involved with the feast. And of course resident tarot card reader Ploy is in the house to read your fortune for a few pieces of silver. Oct 31. B150, includes a welcome drink and pumpkins. Look Inside. 6pm-midnight.
Dia de los Muertos at Paapu House

Dia de los Muertos at Paapu House

One of our favourite haunts for live music (haunt, get it?) Paapu House are celebrating all that is ethereal on Saturday with a skull-defying 'Day of the Dead' celebration, aka Dia de los Muertos in Latin America. Thaitinos will play classic Latin American tunes to possess your feet, so come and shake it, in honour of the spirits. Come as you are, or as who you want to be, but don't forget to dress up accordingly. The grub is also delish here, so come early for dinner and dance it off afterwards – music starts at 9pm. Nov 1. Free. Paapu House. 5pm-11pm.

News (2)

Chiang Mai gets direct link to the world via Etihad

Chiang Mai gets direct link to the world via Etihad

Earlier this month, an Etihad Airways flight glided onto the runway at Chiang Mai International Airport for the very first time – marking a massive moment for the city’s global connectivity. And, as you’d expect, they did it with a bang.  From November 4 2025, the Abu Dhabi-based airline has officially become the first and only carrier linking Chiang Mai directly with the Middle East. This means that for anyone heading west to Europe and beyond, gone are the days of the arduous Bangkok stopover – as long as you can afford the privilege.  To celebrate the news, Etihad Airways sent their best delegates to Chiang Mai where they launched the inaugural flight. The event was one of the biggest I’ve ever seen in Chiang Mai. Every hotel manager, dignitary, politician and influencer were there – and since then the news has been the talk of the town.  Bosang umbrella painting, cocktails and canapes aside, the event spotlighted the new route that aims to bring global tourists to Chiang Mai, and more importantly, give Chiang Mai folks a direct link to the Middle East, and beyond.  As part of the launch, Etihad Airways are offering a special two-day stopover in Abu Dhabi before jetsetters fly onwards to Europe or Africa. The Etihad Stopover Programme, booked directly through the Etihad website, includes a complimentary hotel stay for up to two nights for travellers transiting through Abu Dhabi’s sparkly new Zayed International Airport. Did we mention they’re flying Airbuses too?  Photogr
Inside Chiang Mai’s vinyl revival

Inside Chiang Mai’s vinyl revival

Arriving in a very sleepy Chiang Mai one bright November day in 2021, it was clear to this newcomer that I’d rocked up in a creative city, but perhaps one that was slowly stretching its limbs and coming out of hibernation.  Only a few live music venues had survived 2020, and any thoughts I had of record shopping or spinning were a distant, pre-pandemic memory. DJing and record collecting was something I’d left behind in Europe, surely not on the cards again in the near future. Oh how wrong I was.  Chiang Mai’s vinyl revival is now in full swing with seemingly unstoppable momentum. A vibrant community of devoted wax lovers have launched stores, listening bars, festivals and record labels – each one determined to put the city on the global map as a music destination. Through collaboration and commitment, it seems to be working.  Photograph: Deaf Shop Centrifugal to the scene, Deaf Shop is now a local institution for vinyl lovers. Opening their doors in May 2022, owner Mum Pimolpud came with years of working in Bangkok’s music industry and her partner Laurens Brouwer, DJ and founder of independent label Liquorish Records, came with a colossal record collection. Inspired by a trip to Japan, they decided to open their own listening bar, where customers now pour in for a drink, a dance and the chance to select an LP they want to hear, from the rows of racks that line one side of their venue. It was a brave move in a city that was still finding its feet. ‘No one was waiting for th