Lucie Grace

Every mighty metropolis needs an artistic enclave, where for one reason or another, creatives elect to live, work and play. Think Paris’ Southbank, or New York’s Brooklyn in its heyday. Chiang Mai is no different and while we could argue that the whole city is a creative hub, one neighbourhood certainly stands out. Enter: Pong Noi, the leafy green village that stretches between Wat Umong and Wat Pong Noi, winding around the roads (pong noi meaning little curve or bend) in the foothills of our majestic Doi Suthep. It’s an easy going little hamlet that’s generally off the tourist trail, and is inherently calming while having a lot going on – so if you’re looking to spend some time in a part of the city that’s a little more calm and rustic, then explore our Chiang Mai neighbourhood guide to Pong Noi below. What’s Pong Noi known for? These days, when you first hear of Pong Noi, it’s either an invite to a creative workshop, an art event or because pizza is calling. Adirak Pizza has undoubtedly put the ‘hood on the map in the past couple of years and for good reason.  Why do the locals love it? Pong Noi folks will happily spend all week in their neighbourhood as it has everything they could possibly need – great coffee, great food, loads of entertainment and nature in extremely close proximity, if not their back garden. How do I get to the area? Pong Noi is the furthest west point of Suthep, wedged between Canal Road and the mountain. It’s just a 10-minute motorbike ride west of th

Is there anything better than Halloween on a Friday? Things might be a bit more muted this year, but the ghouls are still ghouling. From live music to murder mysteries, free ice cream (yes, you heard us) to pumpkin carving and soulful Day of the Dead celebrations to boot – Chiang Mai’s got Halloween on lock this year. The only truly scary part is deciding where to go. 

Given the mountains of Chiang Mai are simply bubbling with geothermal hot springs, you’d think that the city would have been bathing mad since the year dot. But it seems that a local love of all things Japanese, coupled with the global boom of the wellness industry post-2020 are to thank for the recent explosion of onsens appearing in and around the city – traditional Japanese spas known for hot baths, saunas and the odd ice plunge. Never ones to miss a new trend, we’re fully embracing the city’s pash for bathing culture, but out of respect for Japan, must note the term ‘onsen’ is sometimes used a little liberally here. In Japan, onsen are baths full of natural hot spring water, however our shortlist includes a few that are better described as onsen-adjacent – with all the hallmarks and experience of an onsen, but without the natural spring water on tap. And unlike the bath houses of our East Asian neighbour, tattoos are allowed in all the spots here – we’re visiting Japan in spirit and that’s good enough for us.

Last week we featured the people behind Chiang Mai’s burgeoning vinyl revival - but now we have you excited about the scene, how can you lock in and build your very own collection? Very easily in fact.  The city is awash with vinyl listening bars, cafes and restaurants awaiting you - some that let you select an LP, some that curate the experience and kindly ask you to keep your mitts to yourselves. Then of course there are the record stores holding the market together with boxes upon boxes of wax discs, many of which come with sound systems in situ and buckets of experienced enthusiasm. Here are our favourite vinyl spots in Chiang Mai.

Rain is once again falling on our heads and the temptation to stay indoors and hibernate is oh so strong. But if you don your best raincoat and fight the urge to hide away ‘til September, there’s still plenty of top tier things to do in Chiang Mai during rainy season.  Whether it’s staying active, indulging in some R&R, making something cool for your house or topping up your cultural cachet at film screenings – Chiang Mai is packed with a fun array of hobbies and activities to occupy your boredom in these wetter months. So ditch the Netflix subscription and check out our fave things to do in the city this rainy season instead.  

Whether you’re a Chiang Mai local or just passing through, finding a top tier yet well priced massage (okay, we mean cheap) is a Golden Fleece-level quest in this town. If you’re lucky enough to have the lowdown on where to get an excellent massage for under B300, you better hope your masseuse doesn’t move on, as the staff turnover struggle is real.  Luckily, the old city is home to such mythical treatments, right under our noses. There’s a handful of humble temple massage spots where skilled aunties – and sometimes uncles – offer hour-long Thai massage from as little as B150. And while they’re not the most glamorous spots on the wellness circuit, they each offer something special. Here’s a breakdown of our favourites. 

As a special entry for those who miss this Friday fun, the arty folks at Art Mai? are pulling out all the stops for a post-hallowed eve drink and paint session in November that’ll spook any self respecting 15th-century art critic. Tickets include a canvas and painting set, one signature cocktail and free-flow shots from 8pm-10pm. And while you can come as you are, dress up and you may get a little surprise from their terrifyingly good bartender, and with only 25 seats available, the competition is fierce but very personal.  Nov 14. B999, includes as listed above. Surr Bar, Art Mai? Gallery Hotel. 8pm-late. 

As if searching out the door to this sprawling bar wasn’t Scooby Doo enough, the legends at Look Inside are throwing a Halloween do again this year that’s absolutely action-packed. The crafty among you prick up your ears: there’s pumpkin carving in town (don’t worry – Eddie and the gang provide the pumpkins), followed by a spritely costume competition and for the brave, mystery trick or treat shots. The kind spirits (get it?) are also hosting a pot luck early doors so bring a plate of something delicious if you want to get involved with the feast. And of course resident tarot card reader Ploy is in the house to read your fortune for a few pieces of silver. Oct 31. B150, includes a welcome drink and pumpkins. Look Inside. 6pm-midnight.

One of our favourite haunts for live music (haunt, get it?) Paapu House are celebrating all that is ethereal on Saturday with a skull-defying 'Day of the Dead' celebration, aka Dia de los Muertos in Latin America. Thaitinos will play classic Latin American tunes to possess your feet, so come and shake it, in honour of the spirits. Come as you are, or as who you want to be, but don't forget to dress up accordingly. The grub is also delish here, so come early for dinner and dance it off afterwards – music starts at 9pm. Nov 1. Free. Paapu House. 5pm-11pm.

The Jed Yot co-working space formerly known as Coco Kala relaunched last month with a packed out pool party that went ‘til the small hours. So if that is anything to go by, their annual Halloween Pool Party will be another banger. Sultry EDM from the DJs raise spirits (in more ways than one, of course) and the fire show will rival anything you’ve seen on Koh Phangan. For partygoers, a sassy costume contest or, most importantly, free shots all night give all the more reason to go. Just try not to fall in the pool.  Oct 31. B500 on the door. Reservation recommended via LINE @thecococlub.cnx. The Coco Club. 8.30pm-late.

The angels at the city’s delightfully anarchic lesbian bar are falling this Halloween and throwing a moody goth night that’s guaranteed to turn heads as they plot to ‘mourn the ordinary and resurrect the queer’ – you heard it here first. Summon your inner witches or warlocks and dig all your black garms out the wardrobe for a dance under the moonlight. Live DJs Spellbound and Khajeezus will be blasting twisted pop, indie and hip-hop in the garden and bar, keeping things nasty until the bell tolls midnight. Oct 31. Free. Sapphic Riot. 8.30pm-12am.

Our favourite vinyl listening bar is throwing the best Halloween dance-off in town for the fourth year running, with resident DJ Oomboi Lauw spinning haunting tracks, spooky anthems and stirring bangers guaranteed to raise hell. The Deaf Shop team’s art department (Mum Pimolpud) goes all out on the decor and the regulars take the fright night dress code very seriously so for heaven’s sake make an effort and get your best Halloween outfit on. Expect big crowds at this joint – we’re starting our petition for a block party next year. Oct 31. Free. Deaf Shop. 8.30pm-midnight. 

One for the kids, the big kids and the sweet fanged (toothed), Nimman’s best ice cream parlour is back with their Annual Halloween Party. Whether you’re a tiny trick-or-treater or a grown-up ghoul, everyone in costume gets a free ice cream to celebrate the night of the living dead. How devilishly generous. Oh and fret not vegans and the lactose-averse amongst you, 7 Senses dairy-free options are just as mouth watering as their dairy equivalents. You can thank us for the tip-off later. Oct 31. Free. 7 Senses Gelato. 12pm-10pm.  

The creative crew at Kindred Studio are taking their weekly comedy improv night and giving it a Halloween twist for this, their second annual Werewolves Murder Mystery. The scene has been set: you, the audience, uncover the mysteries of the cursed village of Miller's Hollow and stop the werewolves before they destroy the village! Bring your cunning, bravery and quick wit for improv like no other. Last year was so popular that the gang have decided to run this terrifyingly hilarious show over two nights – with tricks, treats and a costume contest running alongside the interactive improv show. Oct 31-Nov 1. B300. Book tickets in advance via Ticketmelon. Kindred Studio, Lansieow. Doors from 7.30pm, show starts at 8pm.

Our favourite charity driven event space is putting on a Day of the Dead weekender that is Halloween-adjacent, so we’re here for it. Rooted in ancient Mexican and Meso-American traditions, this two-day gathering honours the dead – a collective grief space, packed full of workshops and events to remember our ancestors and the bonds that still connect us. Happening Saturday and Sunday, see all that is life-affirming and reflective from Energy Rebirth Breathwork to Meditative Art and Skull Painting workshops. You’re also invited to help decorate the altar with drawings, flowers and offerings. Bring photos or anything meaningful to co-create this communal altar. Local creative Marbella will be offering Catrina día de muertos face-painting. Nov 1-2. Free, workshop prices vary. Reservation recommended through their Facebook page. Free Bird Cafe. 10am-2pm.

We love a punk show here at Time Out and there’s no better time to get your leather jacket out of retirement than All Hallow’s Eve. We also love the glam glow-up of Winston’s Pool Bar as the venue for this thrashy shindig. With five anarchic acts playing for just B100, come shoot pool, have a mosh and win prizes for the best costume. The noise kicks off at 8pm with jams from post-punk outfit Apple Jack, followed by hardcore punks Olex at 9pm, noise rock gang Phased Plasma Rifle who’ll be joined by the hip-hop sounds of Takt at 10pm before local heroes Terror Terror undoubtedly bring down the house from 11pm.  Oct 31. B100. Winstons Pool and Sports Club. 7pm-midnight.  

The masters of throwing a fancy dress party, 1921 Wine Club are taking it one step further in the name of thrills and transforming their sumptuous bar into a scene of vintage intrigue. Join the murder mystery party as a suspect, where every glass of fine wine conceals the truth and every whisper hides a lie. The games begin at 7pm and every ticket includes two hours of free wine and canapes. Be sure to get with the dress code: vintage whodunnit with a touch of noir. Come as a victim, murderer or detective.  Oct 31. B1,291 per person. Reservation recommended, call 053 253 333. Anantara Chiang Mai Resort. 7pm-11pm.  

This Santitham apartment building has a self-proclaimed sento (Japanese bath house that doesn’t use natural hot spring water, but heated tap water) on its ground floor and while it may be the least elegant, the fact it’s fully indoors has served us well over the years. It’s our pick for burning season when life is best spent indoors. The place is split into two zones, one for men and one for women, and it’s the only public bath in the city you can visit naked, or use the disposable undies given to you. Handy if you’re not packing any swimwear. The B450 entry fee means it’s usually pretty quiet so you’ll often find you have the sento to yourself, which includes two hot pools, a chilled pool (no ice in sight, don’t worry) and a little sauna. They also provide two towels free of charge and you don’t need to book in advance, so the function over form reigns supreme here, putting Hokka-An squarely in our hearts. 11 Thongkaw Rd, Santitham. B450. Details here. 1pm-10pm. 

Arriving in a very sleepy Chiang Mai one bright November day in 2021, it was clear to this newcomer that I’d rocked up in a creative city, but perhaps one that was slowly stretching its limbs and coming out of hibernation.  Only a few live music venues had survived 2020, and any thoughts I had of record shopping or spinning were a distant, pre-pandemic memory. DJing and record collecting was something I’d left behind in Europe, surely not on the cards again in the near future. Oh how wrong I was.  Chiang Mai’s vinyl revival is now in full swing with seemingly unstoppable momentum. A vibrant community of devoted wax lovers have launched stores, listening bars, festivals and record labels – each one determined to put the city on the global map as a music destination. Through collaboration and commitment, it seems to be working.  Photograph: Deaf Shop Centrifugal to the scene, Deaf Shop is now a local institution for vinyl lovers. Opening their doors in May 2022, owner Mum Pimolpud came with years of working in Bangkok’s music industry and her partner Laurens Brouwer, DJ and founder of independent label Liquorish Records, came with a colossal record collection. Inspired by a trip to Japan, they decided to open their own listening bar, where customers now pour in for a drink, a dance and the chance to select an LP they want to hear, from the rows of racks that line one side of their venue. It was a brave move in a city that was still finding its feet. ‘No one was waiting for th