Chiang Mai’s best durian spots this season

During durian season, Chiang Mai is filled with roadside vendors and temporary fruit trucks, especially around Nimman, selling freshly packed Monthong by the tray. For the real experience though, locals head to markets like Muang Mai Market and Warorot Market (Kad Luang), where stacks of spiky durians take over entire sections of the market. And although the official durian festival at Central Chiangmai has wrapped up, durian stalls are still set up on the ground floor for anyone still chasing the season’s unmistakable smell.

Durianism is taking the love for the creamy fruit up a level with a sweet-savoury pizza that sounds horrible, but is actually quite good.  Two savory durian dishes have hit the menu, the durian pizza and a spicy shrimp salad – combinations that sound wrong on paper and work surprisingly well in practice. The classics are also there – durian sticky rice and ice cream to name a few – while equally adventurous drinks round it all up with cups of durian espresso a popular choice for those who simply can’t get enough.  There's nothing this spot won't try with durian and if you love the fruit, then this is your season’s fresh fruit Mecca. 

3 1-2 Samlarn Rd, Phra Singh Mueang Chiang Mai, Open 8am-8pm

Hommwann sells durian by the box but the shop goes considerably further than that. The drinks are no doubt the main draw with the durian caramel fresh milk being the one people keep talking about – sweet and lightly creamy in exactly the right proportions – while the golden durian Thai tea delivers a cup of bright orange tea with a bowl of durian and cream sitting on top. Homemade ice cream covers the dessert angle and durian chips handle the snack situation for something to take home. And if you want the world to know exactly where your loyalties lie, they also sell durian tote bags, baseball caps and plushies. A one-stop durian shop in every sense.

One Nimman, D122, Nimmana Haeminda Road Lane 1, Muang Chiang Mai. Open 11am-10pm, closes at 11pm on weekends

Siamaya has built a reputation for coming up with some of the best chocolate flavour combinations in the city and the durian milk chocolate is no exception. A local cocoa treat infused with real Thai durian but fear not ye anti-durian folks – the smell is significantly dialled back, making it a genuinely good entry point for anyone who wants the flavour but finds the aroma too much to handle. On the packet, tasting notes of durian and mango are said to pair well with light floral wines and herbal teas. The kind of chocolate that converts, one square at a time.

128/130 Thapae Road, Chiang Moi, Muang Chiang Mai. Open 10am-8pm

You may already know Dun Dun as Miniso's popular chicken plushie that comes in seemingly endless variations – but the latest is the best one yet. Dun Dun Durian is exactly what it sounds like and it's all sorts of adorable. Available in a larger version where the durian chunks can actually be removed from the shell or a smaller keychain size for carrying your durian companion everywhere. Not edible, obviously, but a very good souvenir for anyone who has fallen for the fruit this season.

Multiple locations at Central Chiangmai Airport, Central Chiangmai and MAYA Lifestyle Shopping Center. Generally open 10am-8.30pm

Cheevit Cheeva is the go-to for silky smooth bingsu in Chiang Mai and the seasonal durian version is the one to order right now. The topping is more than generous but what makes this one stand out is what's hidden inside the mountain of shaved ice – more durian, naturally, plus a side of sticky rice and condensed milk sauce. It's the kind of bowl that reveals itself as you eat through it which is either exciting or overwhelming depending on your tolerance for surprises. Either way it won't be around for long so catch it before the season ends.

6 Siri Mangkalajarn Road Lane 7, Suthep, Muang Chiang Mai. 11am-10pm

Cheesecake is already a good thing. Now imagine a generous slab of fresh durian draped over the top – more to love in every sense. Daily Delight's durian cheese pie has a crumble base, a light creamy cheese layer and fresh durian covering almost the entire surface with no shortage of fruit per slice. If you want something even sweeter, the durian custard cake swaps the crumble for a layer of custard that takes the whole thing in a richer direction. Two very good options for a very committed durian dessert.

122 Charoen Muang Road, Chang Moi, Muang Chiang Mai. Open 8am-5pm