INJA

I think everyone’s been betrayed by fusion food at some point. The kind that sounds exciting on paper and then lands confused on the plate. INJA knows this. It also knows that the problem isn’t fusion… it’s lazy fusion.

When INJA opened nearly three years ago, the idea of Indian-Japanese food raised more than a few eyebrows. That scepticism hasn’t entirely disappeared, but Chef Advait Anantwar has spent the last few years settling those doubts, one dish at a time. They’re not exactly trying to shock you – no butter chicken sushi business here – but lean on reworking familiar flavours that are bound to work together instead, such as in their great aam papad tuna.

By now, the restaurant is anything but a ‘hidden’ gem. It regularly features on global lists and recently made it to Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, coming in at number 87. The menu, too, is far from coy.

Take the shiso leaf tuna Banarasi chaat. Pomelo and tuna replace tomato and you’re meant to eat it in one bite. The crispy shiso leaf and tangy, juicy toppings are bursts of flavours that I’d never experienced before. The crab kachori swaps chaat masala for ikura, adding saltiness without losing the soul of the dish. Dishes like the gobhi 65 maki and the cold palak paneer (which literally arrives looking like Mount Fuji) are where INJA really pushes familiar Indian flavours into unfamiliar territory. 

Their palak paneer especially tends to divide the table. There’s no curry, it’s served cold, and the comfort comes from texture rather than gravy. Tempura-fried paneer is lathered in a Japanese curry mayo, spinach is finely shredded after a 48-hour prep, and crispy rice balls and fried garlic add crunch to every bite.

Chef Advait’s position is clear. You may not love every dish, but you can usually see the idea behind it. If something doesn’t land for you here, it’s likely more of a relatability problem than execution.

And if you somehow haven’t guessed yet, this isn’t an everyday restaurant. INJA is expensive and best saved for special occasions. The tasting menu is where the restaurant really flexes, though the à la carte is just as confident. Both evolve every couple of months, which keeps repeat visits interesting.

The space mirrors the food’s philosophy. Deep blue walls nod to India’s dyeing traditions, gold Japanese artwork punctuates the room, and handwoven Itajime shibori on Indian silk adds a tactile layer. Even the awards lining the walls feel knowingly placed, just conspicuous enough to register.

Time Out tip: Reservations are needed to try INJA’s tasting menu (available for dinner only).