Raga by Gaggan

I eat out a lot for a living, which means I’ve had my fair share of tasting menus. Most turn out to be a mixed bag, with their share of hits and misses. Sometimes, I even leave hungry, thanks to those micro portions.

At Raga, Gaggan Anand’s first (and only) restaurant in India right now, none of that happens. For starters, the anticipation alone is enough to whet your appetite. There is also enough food coming your way to have you skipping a few meals. I missed both breakfast and lunch to make room for the 22 courses.

Now, it’s been over a month since the place opened in Delhi’s Janpath, at the spot where Masala Library once was. Yes, the late Jiggs Kalra really did help bring the tasting-menu trend to Delhi. His son, serial restaurateur Zorawar Kalra, has revived the space and brought in Gaggan and his long-time business partner, Indonesian chef Rydo Anton, to the country. A mean feat, I’d say. And the place has been sold out for a while.

When I went on a Friday night for the 6.45pm slot, the 36-cover place was packed. That says something in a city like Delhi, where time is often an abstract concept.

Was the meal worth the hype? You’ll find out, bit by bit. 

The space inside Raga by Gaggan

You can’t miss the stained glass exterior on the main road. When you enter, you are given a few minutes to go through the house rules that permit you to take one smoke break and avoid taking pictures of others and ruining their privacy. 

In the dining room, the open kitchen is the star. From possibly every corner, one can watch the chefs prep up and plate dishes. There are, in fact, almost as many people working in the kitchen as there are guests in the dining room.

You can also book a seat at one of the five chef’s-table seats by the kitchen, for front row access. I went to dine solo, so I yapped with the team and asked them a ton of questions. The playlist, in the meantime, veers from Dua Lipa to Bryan Adams. Range, I suppose?

While phones are allowed here (unlike Gaggan in Bangkok), the house rules suggest diners focus on their food, avoiding any flash lights. And yes, keep your phones on silent. There’s enough happening on the plate. 

The food at Raga by Gaggan

The first few courses are almost a tease. Chilled orange soaked in tequila and mangosteen sorbet – their take on the welcome drink. And then – the Pink Blossom, Gaggan’s take on his famous Yogurt Explosion. Here, the guava-chilli jelly sits inside a crisp edible flower, and you’re supposed to eat the whole thing in one go. Do as you’re told.

What follows is a rapid-fire succession of spice, sourness, sweetness, salt and crunch. The Aloo Bonda Sandwich is especially clever: a tiny toast filled with the flavours of a Bombay sandwich and aloo bonda, except the 'bread' is actually onion-water meringue. Gaggan’s Calcutta connection shows up in dishes like the Jhalmuri Cookie and Golden Egg. While the former hits the right note with its balance of sweet-savoury and biscuity crunch, the other dish feels closer to puchka.

Then there’s Cold Curry, served on a plate that looks like a snow-covered mountain range, with prawns, pomelo and little pools and powders of curry. It is one of those few courses where cutlery appears; everywhere else, you're supposed to get your hands dirty. The Bhetki Paturi, fragrant with kaffir lime, mustard and chilli, is another standout. 

But not everything hits the same high. The pyaaz kachori, shaped like a leaf, is a little ordinary, so is the chicken wing (although full marks for presentation). The monsoon glass papad with cucumber is creative but could have been skipped from the menu.

Fortunately, the meal has plenty more up its sleeve: tabak maaz, a silken nalli nihari, bheja (which is not what it seems like) and a morel curry that arrives with more heft. Save space for dessert. There’s, of course, the much-talked-about Lick it Up, as well as a soft serve with saffron and pistachio. By this point, you may have forgotten what hunger feels like.

The drinks at Raga by Gaggan

With a meal this long, Raga gives you two options. There’s a non-alcoholic pairing at ₹15,111 with dinner, or a seven-glass wine pairing at ₹18,111 (some surprises beyond wine too). 

The verdict 

Raga hits the right notes with its 22-course meal. Barring a few courses, the menu presents some of our most loved and familiar flavours in the most creative way. You dig in, make a mess of the dish, or pop it in one bite. Nobody is there to judge you, and that’s why it feels like home. A hefty price to pay, but so worth the attention and warmth of the team.