Delhi's got at least a dozen places where ghosts and djinns are said to keep regular hours, and we've rounded up some of the most bloodcurdling ones for you.
This is a city that has been built, burnt, renamed and built again, seven or eight times. In between leaves and concrete roads, a Tughlaq left a hunting lodge, the British Raj left a tower, scores of people left gates that no one in today's traffic can quite bring themselves to detour through.
On a Cantonment road, a woman in a white saree is said to keep pace with cars, as though the speed limit were an offensive rumour. Elsewhere, when you stop for a smoke, a headless angrez is said to lift your lighter from your hand, the last small imperial habit of taking what isn’t his. A begum and her dogs may take offence if you treat their waterless palace as ruins.
Or they are all just drunk folks in the dark. Who is to say? This Halloween, the city is teeming with them anyway, as it is at its racier costume parties. It may be worth ending then, then, with stories that are older than carved pumpkins and witch hats, older than the word Halloween itself. A djinn, after all, came long before a gin.
Go to these sites in daylight, if you have any sense. Some, like Khooni Darwaza, can only be seen from the outside. Carry matches and wear walkable shoes either way.
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