A word of warning to start with: leave yourself enough time on your first visit. The restaurant is on Huhtimäenkatu, but not on the street itself – it’s tucked away in a courtyard. Many taxi drivers don’t realise this, and even Google Maps can struggle to guide you to the door. I first visited just after it opened, and even the residents of Huhtimäenkatu didn’t always know where it was. But the mystery is part of its charm. It feels almost unreal that a restaurant – and one of this calibre – sits inside a tiny, century-old stone building.
Stepping into Apaja’s dining room is always a magical moment. Candlelight fills the dim room, which is decorated with old furniture. The tables are close together, and the space hums with chatter. There’s even a small bar where you can enjoy an aperitif. There are no white tablecloths, and the staff are breezy but knowledgeable. When the foundation is strong, you can trust the product and stay relaxed. Diners don’t need to sit up straight and worry about which fork to use for which course.
The word apaja refers to a good fishing or foraging spot. The name fits: Apaja specialises in Finnish vegetables, lake fish, game and meat from small farms. The menu follows the seasons and what nature provides. You might get duck if the hunter has been lucky; if not, the menu changes. Apaja’s philosophy is a timely reminder to approach nature’s offerings with humility and respect for the seasons. The restaurant doesn’t flaunt expensive ingredients. Instead, it shows just how much you can get out of modest ones when you have the skill. The moderately sized dishes are full of flavour. More delicate ingredients – like light-coloured fish – aren’t overworked; freshness and umami stay in balance.
There’s a touch of mystery in the menu too. The dishes are listed on the website, but there are no menus on the tables – everything is introduced when served. This approach might irritate control freaks, but I encourage you to let yourself be looked after. Adult life doesn’t offer much magic, so make the most of Apaja’s sense of wonder.
Atmosphere: Apaja feels like something out of a fairytale. It brings to mind an inn where hobbits and elves gather to eat and enjoy themselves before a great adventure. The tables are set close together, but the low lighting creates a sense of privacy.
Food: There are no individual à la carte dishes, but a mixed and a vegetarian menu, each with around six courses plus snacks from the kitchen. The menu can be adapted to many dietary needs, and the restaurant asks that you mention these when booking.
Drink: The restaurant’s ecological, nature-respecting philosophy carries over to the drinks. The selection includes many wines from ethical small producers. The drinks package has the same element of surprise as the food, and it may include sake or unusual dessert wines.
Time Out tip: How many top restaurants let you bring your dog? Not many – but well-behaved four-legged friends are welcome here. Tail waggers receive just as warm a welcome as humans.