Grab a map and ask a local point to the centre of Florence, and their finger will probably land right over Hotel La Gemma. You’ve got the massive Duomo, the best museums, the most beautiful bridges, dozens of churches and all the glitziest shopping streets within a ten minute stroll of your front door. Whether for a first time visit to Florence or returning to your old haunts, you’d be hard pressed to find somewhere better located.
But really, what makes this place so special is that sense of spaciousness – something hard to find in the centre of this ancient town. Tucked down a quiet side street metres from the action in Piazza della Repubblica, it’s a literal and figurative oasis from the hustle and bustle of the city. Potted palm trees frame the door, the AC is blasting throughout the ferociously hot summer, and as I stepped past the suited doorman and into the cool lobby I made an audible ‘ooh’ of relief. There are no stuffy Renaissance relics here. Everything is emerald green and millennial pink instead, with light-flooded atriums and an eye for Instagram aesthetics.
Why stay at La Gemma?
The new kid on the block in a city that has no shortage of luxury hotels, the owners of La Gemma had to think carefully about what they were bringing to the scene. Their answer? Somewhere light and breezy, contemporary and a little bit feminine, without ever verging on being too modern. The colour palette is inspired by the marble facade of the Duomo, just a couple of hundred metres away, but these historic connections are subtle and never cloying.
Before it became La Gemma, this grand building was known as Palazzo Paoletti, designed by celebrated architect Tito Bellini at the turn of the 20th century. Before that, another palace once stood here, one which in the 1400s hosted the Guild of Hoteliers. Apt, then, that it’s now a luxury hotel itself.
What are the rooms like at La Gemma?
The property is spread over five floors and has just over thirty rooms, making it incredibly spacious for somewhere so central. With some looking over the quiet Via Dei Cavalieri and others over the inner courtyard: thanks to the location of the hotel, none of the rooms are disturbed by noisy passers-by outside. For a special trip, splurge on one of the junior suites with a terrace. I stayed in an apartment-style loft suite, which would be perfect for a longer stay in Florence and has its own marble-clad kitchenette. Some of these also have their own sun-drenched patios, as well as free standing bath tubs.
Cash has definitely been splashed when it comes to the bedroom interiors. There are original Gio Ponti ceramics, opulent marble bathrooms, and your very own state of the art coffee machine in each room – perfect for making a morning espresso in your fluffy robe. The toiletries also deserve a mention: adorable dark green tubes of Votary products in toothpaste-style tubes perfect for smuggling into your hand luggage.
What are the best things to eat and drink at La Gemma?
There are hotel restaurants, and then there are actually good restaurants that happen to be inside hotels. Luca’s by Paolo Airaudo is the latter; an innovative and creative fine dining space in a city that usually focuses on tradition. The Italo-Argentinian Chef Patron earned himself two Michelin stars in San Sebastian, and has brought that same fine dining flair to the menu here. There are a few different tasting menus to choose from, but the standout dish has to be the tagliolini pasta with goat butter, anchovies, and lashings of caviar.
For something more casual, head to La Gemma Cafe in the hotel atrium for Chianina beef burgers, salads and hearty pasta dishes. Breakfast is no messy buffet with floppy bacon. Instead, order perfect swirls of folded eggs, pancakes, fruit platters and their famous Eggs Benedict a la carte. And last but not least, don’t forget the swoon-worthy cocktail bar near the hotel lobby, which has tables outside to soak up the evening sun.
What is the service like at La Gemma?
As you’d expect for such a swish five star hotel, the service is impeccable here - of the smartly-dressed, Swiss-hotelier-school persuasion. From the Harrods-esque doormen in their dark green suits to the army of people waiting to help carry even the smallest suitcase up to your room, no task goes undone. At the bar, mixologists in green bow ties wait to shake up a cocktail of your choice, and at breakfast the friendly waiter offered me not only a run down of the menu but also some local tips on where he most likes to go on his days off.
What is the Allure spa like at La Gemma?
Hidden down in the basement, you’d never expect to uncover such an extensive spa area. There are all sorts of massage treatments on the cards, from a classic deep tissue to a ‘Madera Wood Therapy’ aimed at improving lymphatic circulation. Their highly scientific facials are what Allure Spa is really known for though, especially since this is the first Biologique Recherche collaboration in Florence. Book in for an in-depth skin analysis with the renowned French brand, and prepare to leave brightened and rejuvenated. There’s also a plunge pool with massage jets and a sauna down here, for unwinding after your treatment.
What’s the area like around La Gemma?
You’d be hard pushed to find somewhere better located for throwing yourself into everything Florence has to offer. On your doorstep, step into the grandeur of Piazza della Repubblica, with its colonnades and merry-go-round and centuries-old coffee houses (Caffe Gilli is the oldest and most iconic, dating back to 1733). There’s also La Rinascente, a swanky department store with enviable views from its rooftop cafe. From here, it’s just a couple of hundred metres north to the Duomo - arguably Florence’s star attraction - and a couple of hundred metres south to the impossibly beautiful Ponte Vecchio bridge. Florence’s city centre is busy and crowded - there are no two ways about it - but step out in the early morning and you’ll have the city to yourself.
However you’re getting to Florence, you’re likely to arrive in Santa Maria Novella, the city’s main train terminal and connection to both Florence and Pisa airports. And, you guessed it, SMN (as it’s often abbreviated) is a dreamy 10 minute walk from La Gemma. There is taxi access right outside the hotel, but the city has thankfully put wheels in motion to ban the Disneyland-esque golf buggies that were taking over the city centre.
Why should you book a stay at La Gemma?
If you’re looking at the luxury end of things in Florence, chances are you’ll be browsing through a lot of fusty red and gold interiors that look like they could be a museum. For a city that’s all about Renaissance grandeur, La Gemma is a welcome splash of pastel... It’s got all the elements of an Italian grand dame hotel, with none of those questionable bits. Splurge on one of the suites for a terrace and spend all morning mooching around in your fluffy Rivolta Carmignani robe. To go all out for a romantic trip, consider pre-booking a romantic dinner under the stars on La Gemma’s private panoramic rooftop.
DETAILS
Address: Via dei Cavalieri, 2/C, 50123 Florence, Italy
Price per night: starting at £400 a night including breakfast
Closest transport: Santa Maria Novella (Florence’s main train station) is a 10-minute walk away