A dish born in the 19th century as cover for anti-colonial resistance meetings, Hanoi's chả cá (turmeric-marinated catfish) became so legendary that the city renamed an entire street after it.
Though the family at Chả Cá Thăng Long didn’t invent the dish, they’ve most certainly perfected it over three decades on Đường Thành Street.
The vibe: A multi-level heritage townhouse with air-conditioned rooms and a larger open-air courtyard where the atmosphere crackles with a chorus of tabletop briquette burners. The namesake dish hits every table here in a sizzling, spitting scene of high-stakes spectacle.
Expect communal, kinetic energy as diners lean precariously over active frying pans, and servers dash about, doling out more fresh herbs.
The food: The owner selects only the finest cá lăng (a prized catfish) daily. It’s marinated in a proprietary blend of fresh turmeric juice, galangal, fermented shrimp paste, and the subtle sourness of fermented rice.
That catfish arrives pre-grilled, bite-sized and golden, to be stir-fried by guests in the centre of the table with spring onions and a forest load of fresh dill. Let the marinade catch and caramelise properly on the bottom of the pan - those burnished bits are ethereal.
Orbiting the main event, the 140,000 VND (£4.20) set includes cold bún (vermicelli noodles), crushed peanuts, more fresh herbs, and a simple but delicious dipping sauce of fish sauce, lime, sugar and chilli. For those with funkier palates, ask for the mắm tôm (fermented shrimp paste) version, which is available upon request. Stir and watch it fizz.
The drinks: Room-temperature Saigon Beer over ice, jasmine tea, and soft drinks. Wine bottles are displayed, but we’ve never seen one opened.
Time Out tip: One set easily feeds two. Let servers demonstrate the cooking method once, then take over.