For two decades, Quán Ăn Ngon has served as something of a culinary embassy in Hanoi, its distinctive yellow awnings sheltering a magnificent villa that's welcomed everyone from North Korean delegations to international film crews.
Yet on any given evening it's still 90% Vietnamese diners – families sharing hot pot and beer, business dinners unfolding (and unravelling, quite frankly) over rice wine, and friends catching up in an atmosphere where you simply won’t be served unless you deliver your finest “em ơi” with a real flourish.
The vibe: Through the pretty, lantern-lit entrance, the onslaught of traffic noise fades, replaced by the clattering of woks, the hissing of coals, and the intoxicating din of 500 diners across multiple levels. Out of the frying pan and into the fire, indeed.
The heart of it all: a vast brick-paved courtyard where chefs work at open kitchens along the perimeter. Servers thread between sharing tables, trays loaded high. Everything is full-on here.
Pick your poison: the atmospheric courtyard, the air-conditioned indoor rooms, or the upper levels, where you can survey the beautiful chaos below.
The food: An all-star roster of street food specialities from across Vietnam, all in one place. Directly to your left as you enter, the snail and shellfish station fills the air with the clatter of cockle shells hitting hot woks. From the grill corner, roasting chim quay (pigeon) sends ‘come hither’ smoke signals across the courtyard.
There’s a lot to be said for a place where you can enjoy ten disparate regional dishes without leaving your table, each one arriving hot, fresh and faithfully rendered.
The drinks: Fresh-squeezed juices and smoothies in tall glasses. International beers, and properly strong Vietnamese coffee. Local sticky rice wine is also available for those who can handle a Hanoi hangover with the good grace it deserves.
Time Out tip: Order in waves and share everything. The photo menu helps.