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How Helsinki’s winter blini season turns comfort food into a ritual

Blini weeks are a cheerful way to kick off the new year in Helsinki. These restaurant-led theme weeks begin in early January and run through to the end of March. The timing couldn’t be better. Fried generously in butter, blinis are a rich, warming indulgence best enjoyed in the depths of winter.
You could think of blini weeks as the winter equivalent of Finnish crayfish parties held in late summer. There’s the same sense of occasion, and blinis are at their best when shared in good company, with a steady rhythm of raised glasses along the way.
Most people are full after just one or two blinis, but urban legends persist of heroic diners who have managed to tackle as many as 20 in a single sitting.
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Helsinki’s most popular place for blinis is the functionalist-style Restaurant Lasipalatsi, where blini weeks run from early January until the end of March. Blinis with six toppings cost €39 per person.
To finish, it’s worth ordering the excellent dessert: sparkling wine with sorbet. Mandarin sorbet and bubbles work beautifully together, with a pleasing contrast as the sorbet slowly melts into the effervescent wine.
Another classic Helsinki spot for blinis is Kappeli.
Blinis are buckwheat pancakes, raised with yeast or sourdough and fried in a cast-iron pan. Thick and fluffy inside, crisp at the edges, much of their appeal lies in the toppings served alongside: onion, smetana, roe, Skagen, gravlax and mushroom salad.
The key to a good blini is patience. The buckwheat batter is left to rest overnight, and the blinis are fried to order in plenty of butter on a hot cast-iron pan. They’re never cooked in advance. One blini takes around seven minutes from pan to plate.
If you’re dining in a larger group, it’s wise to expect a little waiting time. Blinis encourage unhurried meals, long conversations and, quite possibly, a few toasts while you wait. But that’s exactly what makes blinis so enjoyable. Blinis encourage unhurried meals, long conversations and, quite possibly, a few toasts while you wait.
Traditionally, blinis have been eaten at celebrations, especially during the Russian Maslenitsa, or Butter Week. This was celebrated in the week before the fasting period leading up to Easter, by eating rich, buttery foods. It’s an old festival that, even before Christian times, marked the arrival of spring. The round shape of a blini can be seen as a symbol of the sun.
In Finland, Maslenitsa isn’t celebrated, but Shrove Tuesday, observed in mid-February, has served a similar purpose.
Blinis originate from Russia, but today Finnish and Russian blinis are quite different. The reason lies in history. Originally, blinis were thick in Russia too, until the 19th century brought a shift in blini culture.
As finely milled wheat flour became cheaper and French culinary influences gained ground, Russian blinis evolved into thin, crêpe-like pancakes. Finland, more geographically and culturally isolated, held on to the original, thicker style.
One tradition Finland did adopt from Russian’s more Europeanized blini culture is pairing blinis not only with schnapps, but also with champagne.
Champagne is an excellent match. Its acidity cuts through the richness of butter and smetana, while the bubbles refresh the palate. Salty toppings such as fish and roe, meanwhile, bring out the wine’s fruitier notes, making the pairing feel celebratory rather than excessive.
In Helsinki, blini weeks arrive at exactly the right moment. For visitors, they’re an easy way to tap into a distinctly Finnish winter tradition – one that pairs butter and buckwheat with the quiet relief that the darkest days are behind us and the light is, finally, starting to creep back.
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