Aperte

Located directly across from the Finnish National Opera, Aperte is a restaurant that has somehow remained under the radar of the masses, despite being helmed by a heavy hitter. The kitchen is run by MasterChef winner Patrik Lindström, whose pedigree includes stints at Elviira, Lupolo, and Young Hearts. Having opened in May 2025, Aperte has been quietly racking up praise – particularly from industry insiders  but it remains something of a local secret, perhaps due to its slightly detached location in Töölö.

Aperte seems to pulse in perfect synchronisation with the Opera’s schedule. When we arrived at 6pm, the dining room was nearly full with a middle-aged and older crowd. At exactly 7pm, the room emptied almost entirely as guests rushed across the street for the first act. According to the staff, the restaurant finds its second wind late in the evening when the audience returns for a post-performance bite.

Presumably to keep things fresh for these frequent opera-goers, the four-course menu (€59) changes often. We decided to put it to the test. The ‘Daily Four’ includes two starters, a main, and a dessert, selected from a concise list offering three choices for the first two courses and two for the last. Simple enough, right?

However, ordering turned into a bit of a bizarre episode. Our waiter began pushing specific dishes for the menu so insistently that, for a moment, we believed the other options were unavailable. Eventually, it transpired that while the choice was free, the waiter was recommending certain plates due to the kitchen’s ingredient supply that evening. A bit of direct communication from the start would have saved a lot of confusion.

Admittedly, the first impression wasn't the warmest, especially as Aperte’s decor is, to my taste, a little too clinical and gallery-like. This isn't the spot for a romantic, candlelit dinner, and I began to wonder what the night would hold.

But when the food hit the table, all doubts evaporated. Aperte is Latin for ‘open,’ and that openness defines Lindström’s culinary philosophy. He refuses to be tethered to any single cuisine, blending flavours with a wild, inspired hand. The best example was that ‘pushed’ Tom Yam Cod –  and thank goodness the waiter persisted.

Based on the name alone, I would never have picked it; the spicy-sour punch of a Thai Tom Yam can easily overpower delicate fish. In Lindström’s hands, however, it became perhaps the finest fish dish I have ever tasted. The plate was incredibly fresh, the cod’s texture was flawless, and the herbs and chilli provided just enough kick, cushioned by a beautifully smooth sweet potato purée.

One could easily dedicate an aria or two to this dish. I will certainly be returning for Lindström’s cooking, which is reason enough in itself to book a ticket for the Opera next door.

Atmosphere Clinical and gallery-like. 

Food Pure five-star fireworks. 

Drink The Antidote grape juice, served as a non-alcoholic aperitif, is a wonderful discovery; the rosemary adds a sophisticated, lingering edge.

Time Out tip When choosing your courses, abandon the ‘safe’ options and embrace the journey. If there is a root vegetable dish on the menu, order it – they are often the most surprising stars of the show.