Boon Nam

Located in the St George hotel, Boon Nam builds its kitchen around the Thai balance of four fundamental tastes: spicy, sour, salty and sweet. You can see and taste that balance in every bite: in the fresh herbs, the squeeze of lime, the warmth of chilli and the soft richness of roasted peanuts. The flavour journey on the menu spans from grilled meats of the Isan region in north-east Thailand to seafood from the country’s southern waters and coconut-rich curries from the centre, and nearly everything is made in-house from scratch.

There aren’t Thai head chefs amongst the founders, but don’t let that put you off. In fact, even Bangkok’s first Michelin star went to Nahm, run by Australian David Thompson and also based in a hotel. Boon Nam, led by celebrity chef Tomi Björk known for his knack for Asian food, hasn’t picked up a Michelin star (yet), but it does come recommended by the guide.

True to Thai tradition, the idea is that dishes are shared across the table – which might throw some diners off at first if they are unfamiliar with the custom. Because of this sharing concept, the whole table has to choose the same set menu. There’s a small menu (€72) and a larger one (€89), with mostly the same dishes but a few extras in the larger. We tried the large.

To start: drinks. Coconut crops up surprisingly often on Boon Nam’s cocktail list. It’s not for everyone, but the staff recommended an off-menu drink that was being phased out. A ginger-beer-based cocktail was refreshing and earned praise around the table – so do ask the bar team for their favourites.

The large menu has 11 dishes, two of them desserts. From the very first plates, expectations were high. The coriander sauce that came with the crab cake was downright perfect – the sort of thing you’d happily bottle and take home. Grilled chicken satay skewers were lathered in a beautifully nutty, rich sauce that tasted deep and authentic. Overall, the start was so good that at times you almost forgot you were in Helsinki.

The coriander sauce was the sort of thing you’d happily bottle and take home

The spice level was adjusted for Nordic tastes, but for those craving extra heat there were separate chilli sauces on the side. All the salads on the menu were exceptionally good: fresh, intense and layered. Every component felt thoughtfully considered.

Of the mains, the ribs glazed with a lavish palm-sugar and plum caramel were melt-in-the-mouth and typified Tomi Björk’s approach. The lamb neck in the massaman curry was flavoursome and tender, with potato included as it should be.

For drinks, the staff made successful wine pairings, even though Thai food is traditionally drunk with beer. A German Riesling was an excellent match for the salads and lighter dishes. The Italian red chosen for the mains supported the flavours surprisingly well.

Desserts were light and refreshing. My dining companion doesn’t like sweet things, and the restaurant adaptively offered a papaya salad instead – so good that it deserved a place on the menu itself.

And the atmosphere? The location in the basement of St George works perfectly: elegant but unpretentious. The lighting is fairly dim and intimate, ideal for a relaxed evening. My companion wished they had reading glasses to see the menu better, but that’s a minor gripe you’ll find in many restaurants.

Boon Nam is expensive, but it manages to create an experience that feels both authentic and considered. Of course you can enjoy Thai flavours more cheaply in Finland, but rarely with this level of care and respect for ingredients.

Atmosphere Thai cuisine presented in a refined, polished setting.

Food Meticulously prepared sharing plates that bring tropical Thailand to your table.

Drink Coconut-forward cocktails and Thai beers.

Time Out tip If you’re dining in a larger group, skip the set menus and order sharing dishes from the à la carte instead – you’ll get the full pleasure of sharing and the chance to sample a wider variety of plates.