Elm

When people talk about Restaurant Elm, the first thing that usually comes up is its location: a dreamy wooden villa on the edge of Kaivopuisto Park. As dining rooms go, it’s one of the most atmospheric in the city (arguably rivalled only by Wellamo, tucked away in the art nouveau neighbourhood of Katajanokka). Add a full menu for under €50 (€49, to be precise), and it’s no wonder tables are in demand.

The old building breathes history and warmth. Candles flicker in the dimly lit dining room, conversation hums softly and you feel less like you’ve entered a restaurant than a well-heeled friend’s living room. The ornate ceiling alone is worth looking up for.

The set menu begins with sharing starters for the whole table – always a plus. Sharing draws people together and lets you sample more widely. Our spread included olives and pickles; radicchio salad with beetroot and orange; caramelised sunchoke with romesco and salted almonds; Elm’s bean hummus and tapenade; and Nolita’s bread.

The crisp-crusted sourdough comes from Elm’s sister restaurant, Nolita in Punavuori, run by the same owners. And yes, it’s so good it’s developed – or should we say risen to – cult status around town.

The radicchio salad was a standout: beetroot and orange played beautifully together, creating a fresh, balanced plate where sweetness and acidity lifted each other. Alongside the rich bread and silky hummus, it made a confident, elegant start. The sunchoke dish brought deeper, earthier notes, adding intensity and making the whole starter course genuinely memorable.

And for anyone with a hearty appetite: the sharing plates are not just delicious but properly generous.

For mains, my companion chose the saffron risotto with roasted celeriac and parsley pesto. The flavours were rich and the texture spot-on, though it could have done with slightly less salt. The glossy pesto added a welcome herbal lift.

I went for pike quenelles with mussels and lobster bisque – a velvety, deeply flavoured dish that paired beautifully with the house Elm White Muscat 2023. A quick aside on the wine: at €11 a glass, it’s not just excellent value, but genuinely delicious – one of the best whites I’ve tasted in Helsinki at that price point. As our waiter put it, ‘clients go crazy for it’.

Curious to try something meatier, we also ordered an extra main: white-tailed deer with grilled paprika and red wine sauce. The venison was a touch too rare for my taste, but the flavour was excellent, especially with the sauce and purées.

Dessert – ricotta ice cream with fermented honey and candied hazelnuts – was a fresh and fitting finale. The ice cream was beautifully smooth, the honey adding just the right sweetness. That honey, incidentally, comes from Elm’s own beehives on the edge of Kaivopuisto; Elm and its sister restaurant Nolla harvest around 30 kilos a year for their kitchens.

Elm leaves you wanting to return. We visited surrounded by snowdrifts, but in summer the terrace overlooking Kaivopuisto must be something else entirely. Before then, I’ll be back for lunch – and afterwards, laptop in hand, settling into the gorgeous library room next door. Open to all, it positively invites thoughtful work.

Atmosphere A historic wooden villa setting creates an inviting backdrop, with genuinely warm service to match.

Food Mediterranean-inspired, unfussy dishes built around local ingredients.

Drink Among the cocktails, the house Negroni is smooth (less bitter than most) and excellent.

Time Out tip Elm’s library room also features a children’s play corner, and the restaurant occasionally offers babysitting evenings for families dining in. These are announced via the newsletter and book out fast – so move quickly.