Kuurna

Kuurna is already something of a classic on Helsinki’s dining map. When it opened just over 20 years ago, it helped kick-start the city’s wave of straightforward bistro dining, and it’s stayed true to that ethos ever since.

For many diners, Kuurna has been a revelation: it showed that you can run a restaurant like this in Finland; with heart and quality, without stratospheric prices. For a long time, the three-course menu was under €50; it’s now €54, which remains excellent value for money.

Kuurna’s location was bold too: tucked away in a peaceful corner of Kruununhaka, a neighbourhood that used to sleep through its opening hours despite being just around the corner from the tourist magnet that is Senate Square.

Travellers should definitely keep Kuurna in mind. There’s something wonderful about wandering through Helsinki’s old town as dusk settles and stepping through the almost unmarked door on quiet Meritullinkatu.

Helsinki truly is a capital of its own kind. What would you find opposite the Louvre in Paris? Not a small, intimate spot that feels like a secret and delivers such excellent quality for the price.

Kuurna does the kind of food its own chefs want to eat themselves: pure, thoughtful and undeniably delicious. The wine list pairs classics with natural wines, leaning on producers committed to ecological and social sustainability.

The menu rotates every three weeks, and a chalkboard reveals the day’s specials. Some dishes have become classics in their own right, like Kuurna’s pepper steak, which usually stays on the menu.

The kitchen champions Finnish meats, Nordic fish and seafood, sourcing ingredients from small producers who share Kuurna’s values and pride in craftsmanship.

Dogs are welcome too, just let the team know in advance and they’ll seat you in the calmest spot possible.

We had a table on Thursday at 5 pm as soon as the restaurant opened, simply because no more convenient slots were available at the time of booking. Kuurna’s small size and popularity mean that the better dinner times are often fully booked well in advance. That early time turned out to be a lovely choice: stepping from the snowy, crisp air into a freshly opened, still-empty restaurant that would soon fill with chatter was a wonderful start to the evening. The dark interior and warm glow of candles felt just right in the heart of the Finnish winter. Service was friendly and steady throughout. 

We began with mocktails, of which there was just one on the menu: the mocktail of the day, a sweet, intriguing mix of green tea, citric acid, sugar and sparkling water. Other non-alcoholic options included a sparkling soft drink.

We ordered all three starters to share. My companion declared themselves a member of the tartare club, so naturally we couldn’t skip it. Kuurna’s tartare was classic in style and genuinely tasty, though it really came alive once we added a dash of salt to bring out all its flavours. 

One starter was a salad with goat’s cheese and pomegranate. A walnut dressing added flavour to this otherwise light dish – so if you’re very hungry, you might want something heartier. Another starter featured rainbow trout with blood orange, jalapeños and malt crumble. The citrus paired beautifully with the fish, though as a spice lover I’d have liked a bit more kick from the jalapeños.

For mains we had the pepper steak with seasonal vegetables. It was pure perfection: the generous steak was cooked exactly right, with a sauce so velvety I could have spooned a bowlful.

Desserts were light and refreshing: pear sorbet with poached pear and miso mousse – an unexpected but excellent combination – and a Dulcey chocolate parfait with kumquat and liquorice meringue. As a licorice fan I would’ve liked even more punch from the liquorice, but all in all the desserts worked well after such a rich main.

Atmosphere Kuurna is on the small side, so the hum of conversation, dim interior and closely spaced tables create an intimate atmosphere.

Food The pepper steak was flawless, and while the starters and desserts were very good, I still missed that one wow moment that would have earned a full five stars. With the menu changing often, I’ll happily return.

Drinks: With the starters we chose a light red; it paired beautifully across three very different dishes. For the main we opted for a fuller-bodied French red that crowned the steak perfectly.

Time Out tip: Next door is Klaava, a wine bar from the same owners where you can start or finish your evening. They don’t take reservations, just turn up. And make sure to try the smoked cod liver with your wine!