Teller

The former circular banking hall is already buzzing by early evening. When I ask the server if the room always fills up this early after office hours, the reply is instantaneous: 'We are actually always full.'

Teller radiates the same iron-clad confidence as its staff's words. Even when the financial news suggests nothing but low pressure, inside these walls it feels as though Finland is booming. That is part of the Teller magic: the optimism is infectious. The interior is so dark, moody, and sophisticated that anyone can imagine themselves as a high-stakes stock market shark – a Gordon Gekko for the modern age. Indeed, Teller is a hit of Manhattan on Arkadiankatu, which is exactly where restaurateurs Teemu Laurell and Lennart Sukapää say they drew their inspiration.

The vibe is elegant yet effortless. You can almost hear a suited regular whispering Gekko’s iconic mantra to his associate: 'Greed is good.'

Here, life feels like a film for a moment. The walls are adorned with art, and the curly birch tables are practically designed for food photography. A few atmospheric corners are perfectly suited for trysts between lovers – or perhaps secret agents. Or lovers who are secret agents. Either way, Teller works for every occasion, from high-stakes business meetings to intimate dates.

Teller works for every occasion, from business meetings to intimate dates

Since opening in spring 2024, the restaurant’s success has long outlived any initial hype. Teller has not only delivered on its promises – it has exceeded them. This is a place where you come for the serious food, but stay for the sheer enjoyment of it all.

The menu is so packed with hits that decision paralysis sets in immediately. Should it be the marinated courgette, the hamachi crudo, or the scallops? The endive, or perhaps the beef carpaccio?

Fortunately, the server intervenes with the kind of authority that makes the stiff formality of Michelin-starred service feel like a relic. The enthusiasm is genuine; at Teller, it is a tradition that every new employee brings their family and friends in to dine so they can experience the room through the guest’s eyes. It shows – the service is first-class and remains upbeat even as the room reaches boiling point.

The starters are the dynamic stars of the evening. The scallops are seared with technical perfection, and the hamachi is served at a precise, room-temperature 'sweet spot'. However, the winner is the endive, which engages in such a sophisticated dialogue with dates, hazelnuts, and fromage blanc that it demands your full attention.

The intermediate courses continue the charm. The mushroom agnolotti melts in the mouth, and the beef fillet à la plancha with mushroom consommé offers pure, unadulterated flavour. There is a playful touch to the snails and parsley-garlic pasta, even if the snails themselves get slightly lost in the orchestral arrangement.

When it comes to the mains, the field narrows and a winner is easily declared. While the Hokkaido pumpkin and the pike-perch are solid efforts, they are inevitably overshadowed by the pyrotechnics of the starters. The undisputed boss of the table is the pepper steak. The €47 price tag might raise the eyebrows of even the most hardened corporate raider, but it is worth every cent. It is a flawless update of the 1980s classic.

The peppercorns are beautifully toasted, the sauce is rich without being overbearing, and the meat is cooked to perfection – notably, without the kitchen asking the guest's permission to ruin the experience with unnecessary requests. If you eat meat, the choice here is simple. Teller’s pepper steak is exactly the kind of dish that would have made Gordon Gekko proud.

Savouring it, one can only conclude that greed is indeed good – at least where the culinary pleasures of life are concerned.

Atmosphere Stylish yet relaxed. A great place to dress up.

Drinks Quality wines and well-made cocktails.

Food Delicious dishes rooted in international cuisine. The menu doesn’t change very often, so your favourites will likely still be there on your next visit.

Time Out tip Booking a table is almost essential, but right next door to Teller is Tales, a wine bar by the same owners where most tables are kept for walk-ins.