Tian Tian Dumplings

I’ll admit it. After years of living in Asia, I’ve grown used to the idea that the best food often hides behind the most unassuming façades. Even so, I’d peered through the windows of Tian Tian Dumplings on Vaasankatu more than once and walked on by. From the outside, it looked decidedly scruffy.

When I finally stepped inside, the place turned out to be surprisingly cosy. There was even an art exhibition on the wall by students from a nearby arts high school. Or perhaps it was the dumplings that softened my view: swimming in a chilli- and coriander-laced broth, they were so good they seemed to cast sunshine over the rest of the day. In that glow, the modest décor began to feel less threadbare and more homely. The atmosphere is sealed by the friendly Finnish–Chinese couple who run the place: he chats happily from behind the counter, she works her magic in the kitchen.

As for the dumplings themselves, they’re the best we’ve found in Helsinki. The meat is high quality (from respected local butcher Roslund, according to the owner), the texture spot on and the flavour quietly seductive. The first bite might leave you wondering what all the fuss is about, but give it a few more and you’ll find yourself hooked.

In true Asian fashion, Tian Tian sticks firmly to its core strength. It makes dumplings – and nothing else. The choice is refreshingly tight: pork, chicken or vegetarian. Then you decide how they’re prepared – boiled, steamed or roasted – and whether you want your broth spicy or less so. Don’t be afraid of the heat; it’s generous but never overwhelming. Portions come in small or large.

So what should you order? The chilli and coriander broth is hard to beat. In fact, it’s so good we’ve never quite managed to try anything else – though who knows, perhaps we’re missing an even greater revelation.

Order one portion boiled and another steamed and share. Even with the same filling, the cooking method subtly shifts the flavour and texture.

You can skip the ‘fried’ option. As the owner readily explains, the kitchen isn’t allowed to fry, so the dumplings are roasted in the oven instead – which changes the texture in a way that doesn’t quite do them justice.

Still, when a place does one thing this well, you forgive it almost anything. Tian Tian may not look like much from the street, but inside those humble walls is a bowlful of comfort that more polished restaurants would envy. And when it’s this good – and this affordable – you can be sure we’ll be back again and again. One day we might even try the other broth. Then again, why tamper with perfection?