Nununu - Dirty Dining
Time Out says
Dirty and delicious milk buns with a variety of outrageous toppings
Chef Guy Gamzo has managed to pull off one of the best fine dining experiences in the Tel Aviv, Aria, with a bar and nightlife scene downstairs that’s pumping every night, his Asian-inspired Haiku Skybar is dreamy, and Nununu is an adventure in 'dirty dining' as patrons seriously indulge in over-the-top concoctions like milk buns bursting with mac and cheese or soft brisket that melts in your mouth.
We sat down with him to hear more about where his inspo is coming from:
Where did the idea for milk buns at Nununu come from?
"It all started with the bar at Aria. Aria is a fine dining restaurant, which meant that the bar at Aria required a different kind of food – but food that still represented fine restaurant food, as people wanted to stand and eat.
I spent long time thinking about what the ultimate food for the bar would be. Most people suggested food in a pita, but that didn’t really fit in with the Aria vibe. I started by introducing pretzels, but it wasn't exactly what I wanted. Then I started developing this bun. It took me a month a half to develop the recipe until I got the perfect texture. The recipe is a lot of worlds in one. It’s a brioche, but without the heaviness; it’s sweet and fluffy challah – the kind that Israelis love. It’s the clarified butter and all of this crispy on the plancha. That's what makes up the milk bun".
Why do you think Israelis love street food so much?
"It’s just the culture. It’s deep in the Israeli psyche: they love the pita, tahini, and drippings. They like to eat fast and go. Israelis are infatuated with America, and they love the fast pace of the country – think the New York style of speed and tempo, where everyone is always doing something. Israelis move at a fast pace, and we're always chasing our tails. People want to eat on the move; so street food is big."
Who inspired you?
"My wife’s granny made a brisket one Friday night. She’s from Boston. As I ate this spicy, saucy, Jewish soul food, it inspired me to study more food from Boston. I delved into a world of lobster rolls and thought about what Israelis like – and realized that they don’t like cold food – and lobster wouldn’t be something that would go well here. For a local food fair, I made Dolly’s Brisket which was tender meat in this milk bun, and people loved it."