San Domenico Palace

Perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Ionian Sea with Mount Etna occasionally smoking quietly or violently spewing molten lava in the distance, stepping foot in San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel, feels like a big screen cinematic moment. These views and plenty of drama was squeezed onto our small screens when the hotel was the setting for the wildly popular Second HBO series of the White Lotus. After years of restoration and meticulous care, the 14th-century former Dominican convent re-opened as a hotel in 2021 and is now arguably the hottest location on the island. The 5-star hotel has now reached a level of fame whereby hordes of tourist wait outside in the entrance in the hope of catching a glimpse of A-listers – they looked very disappointed when I walked in. 

Why stay at San Domenico Palace? 

During the five centuries when San Domenico Palace was a convent, its residents were focused on a life of quiet contemplation. But when the convent was expanded to become a hotel in 1896, it quickly became a lively and ultra glamorous destination for the world’s rich and famous, an atmosphere its sustained into the 21st century. 

During the Taormina film festival, the Palace is where the big stars stay. Elizabeth Taylor apparently threw furniture at Richard Burton in their suite during a row, whilst Audrey Hepburn, Oscar Wilde, King Edward VIII, Steven Spielberg, Tom Cruise are just a few of the big names who may have slept in the same room as you.

The hotel exudes exclusivity and effortless glamour. The old stone monastery walls and steps, worn from hundreds of years of passage, are complimented with neutral tones and timeless materials such as Patagonia marble, bronze, antiques and remnant statues and elaborate coving segments. Nothing outshines the sense of history and location of this iconic building. The result is a place that feels both sacred and indulgent - a sanctuary of calm. 

What are the rooms like at San Domenico Palace? 

The convents transformation into a Four Seasons masterpiece has preserved its soul — vaulted ceilings, arched windows, and cloistered corridors lead to its 111 rooms and suites. Many rooms open onto private terraces overlooking the Ionian Sea or Mount Etna; nineteen feature private plunge pools, with glass balustrades ensuring uninterrupted views.

The design nods to the building’s monastic past with natural stone, antique textures, and clean architectural lines. All rooms have marble bathrooms featuring dual vanities, rainfall showers and automated curtains and lighting settings. In every room is also the softest bathrobes, high-thread-count bedding, LCD TV’s, safe, refrigerated private bar, coffee machine, and 24-hour room service. 

The Deluxe and Sea-View Rooms (30–45 m²), where I stayed, are larger with a separate lounge that open onto balconies or terraces with sweeping views of the gardens. Many feature both a bath and shower along with custom cabinetry shaped to fit the monastery’s historic architecture. 

What is the food like at San Domenico Palace? 

As with Sicilian life, food is central and doesn’t disappoint. Every restaurant and bar celebrates Sicily’s natural abundance — citrus, seafood, olive oil, pistachios, and volcanic wines from Etna’s slopes. The hotel’s Michelin-starred Principe Cerami, led by chef Massimo Mantarro, pays homage to the island’s volcanic soil and fertile coast with dishes that reinterpret traditional Sicilian flavours in refined, modern ways. A pre-dinner cocktail at Bar & Chiostro is a must. It is the social heart of the Palace and therefore the ultimate people watching spot. 

Rosso, the all-day restaurant, is also where breakfast is served. Get there early and bring your sunglasses to ensure that you get a sunny cliffside table and that the Ionians dazzle doesn’t blind. You might struggle to choose from a specialty coffee (my recommendation is the pistachio latte – don’t say no to the cream on top), champagne or any of the freshly pressed juices. Order from the extensive A la cart menu but the buffet of cream bursting cannoli, pastries, local honey, salads and local cured meats means that like me, you’d struggle to fit more in. 

Anciovi sits on the infinity-pool terrace and serves fresh seafood and mediterranean classics such as tuna tartare with citrus and fennel, grilled octopus with caponata, all with sides of focaccia and Sicilian Olive oil that was so good I wanted to drink it from a wine glass. If you can’t bear to leave your lounger, food will come to you. 

What is the service like at San Domenico Palace? 

Service was attentive, very friendly and unexpectedly informal, considering the expense of the hotel. On discovering I was British, almost every staff member I chatted with wanted to tell me that they had studied or temporarily lived in the UK, asked for London restaurant or cocktail bar recommendations, or wanted to chat football. House keeping staff seemed to work their magic under an invisible cape, and reception staff were very helpful and efficient. In no time, the concierge can appear to effortlessly arrange everything from private yacht excursions to the Aeolian Islands to helicopter rides over Mount Etna, wine tastings, and guided explorations of ancient Greek theatres. 

What are the facilities like at San Domenico Palace? 

The 21-metre infinity pool almost blends with the Ionian Sea below and might be one of the most photographed spots in Italy. The terraces are lined with glass so as not to interrupt views of the sea and Mount Etna. 

The gardens, with the Ionian Sea as a dazzling blue backdrop, appear like a living work of art. Even I, as someone slightly allergic to selfies and social media posts, excitedly snapped away. Once tended by Dominican monks, the grounds have been reimagined by landscape architect Marco Bay as a series of open-air “rooms,” each telling its own botanical story. The gym has all the high-tech equipment you could want, and the spa has a smaller indoor pool and separated steam rooms and saunas for men and women.

What is the area like around San Domenico Palace? 

Taormina is a buzzing historical hill town with a narrow central street of ancient buildings now housing shops, bars and restaurants, which the hotel sits just behind. Go for a stroll to soak up the atmosphere and visit the ruins of the outdoor Greek Amphitheatre. 

Book a tour to hike on the Mount Etna volcano you’ve been keeping an eye on from your sun lounger, or maybe a local wine tasting tour. If you don’t fancy the hike, book a sunset helicopter tour over the volcano’s crater. Dive deeper into the islands film heritage and book a fascinating ‘behind the scenes’ Godfather film tour which takes you to the very recognisable locations where the iconic mafia trilogy was filmed, including inside the Coleone family home. Make a reservation to dine at Le Grand Bleu restaurant, a 5-minute taxi ride away, which was featured in Luc Besson's famous 1988 film “The Big Blue”. A tunnel through the rock leads to the waterside restaurant and the only thing you should order is the Sicilian tasing menu.

Why should you book a stay at San Domenico Palace? 

A stay San Domenico Palace captures all the history, glitz and magnificent views. It’s a dizzying display of glamour where history and hedonism coexist spectacularly, and is the place to stay in Taormina. But it comes with a hefty price tag. As one of the most expensive hotels in Sicily, it delivers the sky-high expectations. The hotel is a famous as many of its guests, which means that despite the room prices, demand is incredibly high, so book well ahead and avoid peak summer season, if you can. Note that the hotel closes November to March.