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La Roqqa breathes new life into the ancient port town of Argentario, (90 minutes out of Rome). Known as Caravaggio’s resting place, this helter-skelter seaside village is heavy with history, but this five-star hotel cuts a contemporary picture wedged into the hillside with a dramatic, terracotta facade.
The area is still relatively unknown, save one grande madame hotel nearby. La Roqqa offers a fresher vibe, just five minute’s walk from the centre. It’s the opportunity to see a still-unspoiled coastal community along Tuscany’s shoreline. With a rooftop cocktail bar that’s elevated in more than just its position, and sleek rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, La Roqqa mixes comfort and style ever-so nicely.
Why should I stay at La Roqqa?
If you want to recreate the picturesque appeal of somewhere like Portofino, but with less crowds, Porto Ercole is a great option. It’s ideally placed, under two hours drive from Rome airport and the train line along the coast is surprisingly easy to access, making it a nice stop on a longer trip down the coast.
La Roqqa is one of the only hotels here, so it makes sense to book in if this sounds like your kind of holiday. But, location isn’t the only reason to book. The interiors are fantastic – like, original design classics from the 1930s kind of fantastic – while the dining options are thoughtfully considered with a menu using local produce and cocktails inspired by Caravaggio.
Another big hitter is the beach club. You can walk in under 10 minutes but shuttles go frequently and whizz you there almost immediately. Here, you’ll find a tropical-inspired, whitewashed restaurant and tiki umbrellas, as well as a romantically-craggy beach front where you can pick through huge rocks, climbing into the turquoise waters beyond.
What are the rooms like at La Roqqa?
La Roqqa is a boutique hotel so you’re spoiled by – almost – having the place to yourself. Across just 55 rooms and suites there’s plenty of choice ranging from three-bedroom penthouses and a terrace suite, to multi-bedroom rooms, handy for friends or family travelling together. I stayed in a standard double with a gorgeous harbour view. The design principles are similar across the board with clean lines, a minimalist feel and rich Mediterranean colour palette.
There are a few things that stand out; first, the balcony. Every room has some outdoor space which makes a huge difference, especially when perched on a viewpoint as stunning as this. Most rooms also have a floor-to-ceiling glass frontage, looking down onto the port, which is instantly transportive. This contrast works: the clean-cut bedroom design lets the view do the talking.
Though simple, you get the sense that bedrooms have been carefully designed. The TV is hidden in a convincing mirror; Porto Ercole doesn’t have drinking water so a sleek tap is fitted into the side table; freshly-made local fruit juices are added to your fridge morning and night with a new flavour for the day; tote bags are stored in the cupboard and the bathroom bears fancy Sicilian cosmetics brand, Ortiga.
What are the dining options like at La Roqqa?
La Roqqa’s in-house rooftop restaurant, Scirocco, serves a menu of Tuscan cuisine with a few modern twists and turns. The team are passionate about using local, seasonal produce and have teamed up with social cooperative L'Orto Giusto that employs people with disabilities and helps the restaurant build, maintain and harvest their own garden for authentic farm-to-table produce.
I tried the buffalo mozzarella-filled gnocco with elaborate touches like smoked provola and potato foam, mullet bottarga and candied lemon, followed by seabass with smoked burre blanc and basil oil, all of which was delicious. The restaurant was strangely empty apart from one other table – but this was a few weeks before the season really got going, so perhaps that’s why.
Things were similarly elevated at the cocktail bar, where the mixologists were simply brilliant: engaged, curious about our tastes, playful and up for a chat. The Caravaggio-themed cocktail menu was fun without being gimmicky. Stylishly designed, it shares the history of the painter’s most famous works, drawing on their symbolism for each cocktail. I had a really smooth, well-mixed take on a negroni that nearly knocked me over – loved it.
What’s the service like at La Roqqa?
We were picked up from the train station at no fuss or expense, the reception team were lovely and helpful, and every time we stopped for a coffee, drink or to just read a book in a common space, we were approached politely and without pressure.
What are the facilities like at La Roqqa?
La Roqqa has a gym, sauna and treatment room if you fancy a massage during your stay. There’s also partnerships with nearby providers so that the team can book you an experience if that’s your thing, such as horse riding, wine tasting or sailing.
The most wow-worthy facility is the beach club. Loungers sit along the rocky shore and sand, curving around the coastline. Perching on the huge rock a la The Little Mermaid, admiring the view or jumping into the blue below is quite something.
What’s the area like around La Roqqa?
Porto Ercole is primed for mooching. It’s giving Goldilocks: not so big that you’ll get lost or need to plan your route, but not a tiny village, either. Just right for trying eateries by the port, nipping into some boutiques and walking the Caravaggio way, which leads to his grave. The whole area has a real local feel. Everything is independent and specialised; particular stores for pasta, pastries, fish, sweets. I particularly loved lining up outside a sandwich shop run by a commanding nonna with daily specials that were snapped up quickly for picnics and bike rides.
Why should you book a stay at La Roqqa
Any hotel with a Mario Bellini Couch deserves a visit in my book. La Roqqa combines on-point design, a killer location and some great dining options - what’s not to love? Without a garden or pool, you might want to invest in a bigger room or suite, and perhaps factor this stop into a longer trip where you’ll get more outdoor space.
Details:
Address: Via Panoramica, 7, 58018, Porto Ercole
Expect to pay: From €423 per night.
Closest transport: Porto Ercole Ricasoli La Rocca bus and coach station (buses 0o1 and 0o2) is a one-minute walk.