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Lake Como needs no introduction from me. A symbol of la dolce vita, film stars and socialites have been visiting Northern Italy’s iconic lake since the early 1900s. Its circumference is lined with glittering, grand hotels and when George Clooney invested in an 18th-century, 25-bed villa on the Western shore in 2000, it only cemented this region further as a home for the rich and famous.
But, that’s why I love Villa Làrio. It’s breath-takingly stylish, undeniably plush, and doesn’t pay attention to that scene – not at all. Small (erm, for a palazzo), Villa Laria is an independently-owned, suite-only property, with 18 of them to choose from, an outdoor pool, layered garden spaces and a mini jetty floating out front. It swaps gold-gilded ballrooms and packed restaurants for intimate dining and quiet places to read a book. Decor is simple and contemporary, elevating what’s already there. In a word? My god, it’s chic.
Why should I stay at Villa Làrio?
Don’t be confused; Villa Làrio may not be a grande madame, but it’s very, very luxurious. Staying here feels like being a celebrity for the weekend, just without the crowds. There are so many reasons to book a stay – the service (the best I’ve known), the views, the style, the atmosphere – but I’ll focus on just two, for now.
The location: anywhere around Lake Como will surely be beautiful but this little corner feels special. Snuggled into a tiny village, Pognana Làrio, there’s a smattering of idyllic houses either side of the hotel where locals make their daily pilgrimages to church, stores and the port. This port, by the way, is the most adorable thing you’ve ever seen with an old-fashioned sign and bobbing fishing boats. There are no tourists or busy roads, and you feel completely embedded in this ancient hamlet’s comings and goings.
The other thing is the food. The owners searched high and low for the perfect chef to bring this region’s flavours to life in an indulgent, satisfying but not overly complicated way. They landed on Chef Davide Maci who has experience working all over Europe, from London’s Sketch and Rome’s Hotel Eden, but hails from only two hours away in Lombardy. His thoughtful approach makes each ingredient sing, offering both elaborate eight-course taster menus as well as fresh pastas served lakeside.
What are the rooms like at Villa Làrio?
Rooms? Darling, don’t be silly. Villa Làrio’s suites spread across two main buildings; a villa positioned further up the hill where you’ll find the terrace restaurant, reception and outdoor pool, as well as several suites. Then, there’s the waterside palazzo with another restaurant, gardens and remaining suites. You can walk between the two in seconds; a glass lift takes you just up the hillside – it’s very James Bond. Two standalone spaces – The Pavillion Suite and The Garden Suite – can be found on the cliffside and within the gardens for a completely private experience.
Decor is purposefully simple to let the surroundings shine. Each suite is uniquely designed but most have white-washed walls, earthy tones and textures across furnishings, and minimal but well placed artworks.
What are the dining options at Villa Làrio?
Casa Làrio offers the pale stone floors of a centuries-old palazzo sitting side-by-side with the lake, while Villa Bianca has a higher viewpoint in the elevated gardens looking out to the mountains. For all day dining, impossibly fresh pasta and artisanal pizza Casa Làrio is the one. Here, you’ll also find a cracking cocktail bar with picture-worthy negronis and a creative menu with constantly-evolving options.
Villa Bianca showcases the breadth of Chef Davide Maci’s skillset with dishes like Mediterranean sea bass in citrus reduction served alongside a courgette and flower salad or grilled whole prawns with scallop tartare, cucumber and basil mayonnaise.
What’s the service like at Villa Làrio?
This might be the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever written but… do you know what the problem with five star service is? Sometimes, it’s a bit much. Of course, it’s appreciated when hotel staff check in and offer help, but an overly diligent approach can lack a sense of human-ness. The wonderful thing about Villa Làrio is that the team are polite, knowledgeable, warm, helpful but they’re also human.
Most are locals or from the surrounding areas and will passionately tell you about their hometowns. These guys aren’t afraid to crack a smile or a joke, tell you about their day and persuade you to have that extra cocktail - always getting the vibe just right. It’s also a small team so you can get to know each person and they’re distinct specialities – whether it be the smartly dressed wine enthusiast with Hugh Grant-esque hair or the cheeky, ever-smiling manager who’ll share stories about his years working in London’s best restaurants – within a few days. You’ll leave feeling like part of the furniture, which no doubt encourages you to come back.
What are the facilities at Villa Làrio?
As well as the pontoon which you can jump from and the outdoor pool, Villa Làrio also has a fitness studio and gardens to explore. Ask about experiences, though, which could include a ride in a vintage-style wooden boat or trip to see the local lemon grove where Chef Davide shops for fruits and garnishes.
What’s the area like around Villa Làrio?
As this is a quieter stretch of the lake, it’s not the kind of place you would go for a wander. However, the port is under five minutes walk away and from there you can catch ferries all over Como. The town centre is around 20 minutes drive away by taxi.
Why should you book a stay at Villa Làrio?
If you want peace and quiet with soul-nourishing food and lake views, this is the place for you. Personally, the floating pontoon clinches it. Jumping into the refreshing water below, you have the sensation of being caught mid-moment within a memory you’ll never forget.
Details:
Address: Via Matteotti, 27, 22020, Pognana Làrio
Expect to pay: From €1080 per night
Closest transport: The Pognana-Via Statale 21 bus stop is a one-minute walk.