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Review
Located on one of Italy’s most beautiful coved private beaches in Sicily’s Bay of Mazzarò, Villa Sant’Andrea embodies the essence of an Italian summer. With old-world charm and effortless style, the hotel exudes sophistication without ever feeling pretentious. Its 69 rooms cascade down the cliffside, with the sea lapping at its base, creating an intimate, personal and relaxed vibe. Built by an aristocratic family in 1919 and transformed into a hotel in the 1960s, Villa Sant’Andrea retains the sense of a family home.
Driving down the narrow hill road to the hotel’s unassuming entrance, I wasn’t prepared for the beauty that awaited. Nestled between subtropical gardens and the sea, this retreat still feels like a private waterfront home. On what is arguably the most stunning beach on the island, guests can unwind in cabanas, swim in the clear waters, or float in the infinity pool overlooking the bay. Life here slows. Watching small boats bob on gentle waves or the splash of swimmers diving from the rocks became a favored pastime during my stay, whether from a lounger or my balcony.
Aside from its location, the service and food is another highlight and reflects the hotel’s proudly Sicilian identity, with menus using local ingredients and traditional dishes served on the open-air terraces.
The hotel interiors are opulent, but discrete. You’ll walk along hallways of marble floors and staircases, whilst occasional antiques or paintings hang from plain white walls. The hotel doesn’t scream aristocrat, its vibe is much softer and never ostentatious. That’s what’s Belmond has done so well here, the ambience is always spot on, whatever the time of day. Despite the hotels price tag, nobody is flashy or trying to be seen. You’ll likely be dining next to families or Europeans who return year after year.
Rooms are elegantly furnished with antique tables, Sicilian ceramics, vases of fresh flowers, plush sofas and a huge bed, all in neutral tones. Most rooms have balconies or terraces with a table and chairs and beautiful flowers that overlook the picturesque bay, providing the perfect spot to watch the sunset, or sip your morning coffee or tea.
Bathrooms are pure marble with brass fittings, high end toiletries, walk-in showers marble encased bathtubs. The only noise we heard from our room was the sound of crashing waves when we had the terrace door open. We stayed in an upper-floor suite on the corner of the bay, which offered convenient access to the swimming pool. Interconnecting and family rooms are available.
Served outside on the terrace just meters from the water’s edge, or in Ristorante Sant' Andrea, breakfast is an event and not to miss by oversleeping. The buffet offers every Sicilian breakfast favourite – salads, cured meats, delicious pastries as well as baked sweets. You must order the traditional pistachio granita with cream and hot brioche for dunking. Theres also a tempting array of à la carte options and as expected when in Italy, the coffee is the best. Throughout the day, drinks and light snacks can be ordered from your beach lounger.
Ristorante Sant' Andrea excels at seafood dishes, Sicilian style. Nothing overly complicated, just great local, fresh produce expertly prepared. The lightly marinated raw fish and shell fish starter, followed by the ‘catch of the day, cooked any style, is a great example of this. The Sommelier will make excellent suggestions for wines, and I’d recommend you start with a sparkling from the foot of Etna. The hotels intimate fine dining restaurant Brizza is a gorgeous 16-guests-only restaurant whereby tables are laid out on the beach, at the water’s edge. After dinner, head for a nightcap at Bar Sant'Andrea.
Take the hotels free shuttle up to their sister hotel in Taormina, the Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, for dinner at Ristorante Timeo. Be sure to arrive before sunset to be awed by the view, and then again by flavours in the dishes as the sun goes down. At Timeo it’s the meat dishes that reign – the veal roll starters were sensational, the risotto with pumpkin, cuttlefish, and white truffle - the best I’ve ever eaten, and then the Madonie lamb shank with Marsala sauce topped them all.
Service was relaxed and impeccable – from the waiter to the housekeepers and concierge, everyone was warm, welcoming, and seemed to automatically appear just as the thought of needing them popped into your head. It was clear that staff were proud to work at the hotel – many grew up in the area and have been working there for years. The bar staff reveled in making personalized cocktails to our tastes and were great conversationalists.
In particular the concierge was indispensable. A hire car arrived within minutes of our request and we were given a bespoke list of recommended places to visit off the usual tourist routes, and his phone number to call, if needed. The hotel also offers complimentary boat tours around the stunning Sicilian coast during the summer and a regular shuttle to Taormina.
The deep outdoor heated swimming pool overlooks the bay and has an ice cream cart and bar service. Set among the terraced gardens is a small children’s play area, and there is a treatment room, hairdresser and small designer clothes shop. The gym has the latest Technogym equipment and a personal trainer is available upon request.
You won’t want to leave the leave the gorgeous little bay and the hotels private beach, but you must. Take the hotels free shuttle to explore the well healed town of Taormina and its Greek Amphitheatre. You can also reach the town from Sant' Andrea in just a few minutes via a cable car. Either hire a car or book a tour to hike on the islands famed volcano, Mount Etna. Or if you fancy a lazier option and an aerial perspective, book a helicopter tour. A highlight of our trip was a drive out to the countryside for body rafting in the picturesque Alcantara Canyon. Donning a wetsuit and life jacket, with a guide on a group tour we giggled like children as we jumped and slid off rocks on a journey down the gorge in what can only be described as one of Disney’s natural water parks. Wine tasting tours and cooking classes are also a great option.
A stay at Villa Sant’Andrea is the epitome of the perfect Italian summer. The combination of chic, old world glamour, top-notch service, a scenic private beach and Scillian dishes and wines means that a summers day could not be better elsewhere. The shoulder seasons pre and post summer are the best times to visit when Taormina is less crowded, the temperatures are still warm and hotel reservations are easier to make (the hotel quickly books up in peak season).
DETAILS
Address: Via Nazionale 137, 98039 Taormina Mare, Sicily, Italy.
Price per night: Starting from 900 euros per night
Closest transport: Cantania airport is a 45-minute drive away
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