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A lot of Johannesburg mums and dads have a Bambanani story. I’m one such mum and it nearly felt personal when Bambanani Family Restaurant in Melville announced its closure earlier this year as I have lots of personal stories there including my daughter’s 9th birthday. But a miracle happened earlier this month and Bambanani reopened its doors and welcomed patrons once again.
Founder Caryn Cohen describes herself as an entrepreneur who loves South Africa, and by the end of our interview it is clear that Johannesburg holds a special place in her heart.
The essence of Bambanani
It all began 18 years ago when Caryn noticed that there was nowhere that she could take her children along and have a great time. This led to the birth of this homely family restaurant which didn’t just have a regular jungle gym but also featured a “kitchen” for girls to play in, stations where children can make crafts and other activities under the watchful eye of the establishment’s resident childminders.
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Some may say Melville was not the right place for a children’s restaurant because it’s a student village, but the truth is that the area has always been a haven for creatives and is surrounded by residential communities with numerous schools by The Parks including Emmarentia, Parkview, Greenside and a few others.
“I was an entrepreneur and I loved food but it took me a while to learn about the restaurant industry. Initially, I didn’t have the right partners who had the strengths that I lacked” Caryn reflects.
How the odds stacked up
For a decade she financed Bambanani from her own pocket as the restaurant proved to be a liability, and in 2017 she finally found someone who turned things around. Business was booming for three years but then Covid-19 hit and restaurants in general were hit really hard.
Competitors started popping up, children whose parents had been part of the Bambanani community grew up and the new parents had not really heard about her brand as Caryn didn’t have her new competitors’ strong marketing budget and monthly turnover plummeted.
The road was tough for Cary as loved Melville and had a long history there. In their younger days, she and her husband partied and made memories on 4th Avenue where the restaurant is situated.
‘Sometimes I feel like maybe the universe is trying to tell me that I’m not even supposed to be here, maybe it’s a sign that I should just pack up and never look back,” she shares.
About two years ago she decided to buy the theatre next door to diversify and give the children more activities but was met with red tape around certification and parking space. So, the children’s theatre remains dormant even though she had already bought the furniture and other necessities.
Between the financial loss and inability to pay salaries, Caryn eventually decided that it might be best to close shop because things had gotten so bad that she was forced to re-mortgage the facility, which had already been paid off.
The Queen of comebacks
When the announcement to close was made in April, more than 2,000 people signed a petition for the theatre licence and rallied behind Caryn and Bambanani.
Because of her faith in both Melville's potential and Johannesburg's urban villages in general, Caryn was determined to not let the place stand empty. In 2024 she opened a new branch in Bedfordview which is doing exceptionally well. Her love for Melville gradually pulled her back home and the restaurant reopened in early August. Caryn is currently renting the house behind Bambanani to give the children a garden and she takes me on a tour.
From ramps for prams to decks where parents can chill while children play in the garden, I can tell family is still rooted in the brand's fabric despite how this facility is not yet in use as its operations are tied to the unopened children's theatre.
She strongly believes that Johannesburg residents cannot afford for Melville to decline because if this suburb goes, this might ripple over to Parkview and all the way through to Rosebank and other surrounding suburbs.
“Johannesburg's urban villages like Melville are the only places that small to medium businesses can actually afford because they can't afford rental in the malls. And small businesses are the backbone of Johannesburg's economy,” she says.
It seems everyone agrees because a lot of new brands are mushrooming in the area such as the Melville Art Mile, where about 20 local art studios, markets, restaurants and other establishments transform into a vibrant, walkable celebration of art, culture and community. Book Circle Capital hosts authors for conversational sessions almost every weekend and various social and nightlife establishments have opened.
The entrepreneur in Caryn is not oblivious to this and next door to Bambanani, she has opened a new night-time adults only restaurant that brings fine dining to the area through its European-bistro-inspired dishes. This also forms part of the Melville history that Caryn is so passionate about as she shares that this was Johannesburg's first bioscope.
Bambanani has also been given a makeover and while the porcelain figures and vintage furniture are still part of its homely aesthetic, Caryn has added role-play rooms for the children such as a theatre, police station, hospital and a workshop with tools. So, there's plenty to do for the kids while the parents engage in adult conversation and take a break from their busy lives.
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