A bustling urban scene in Newtown
Wirestock | Bustling urban scene in Newtown, Johannesburg
Wirestock

Neighbourhood Diaries: Newtown

Murals, museums, music history, late-night dancing and one very good lunch stop make this inner-city precinct one of Joburg’s richest cultural outings.

Garreth Van Niekerk
Advertising

Newtown isn’t the kind of neighbourhood you can flatten into a neat little round-up. It’s too dense with history for that, too full of the old, too marked by reinvention. So while putting this guide together, we reached out to Marc Latilla, the writer behind the deeply researched Johannesburg 1912 blog, and author of Johannesburg Then and Now, to help peel back a few of those layers. His suburb-by-suburb archive of the city has become a go-to for people interested in Joburg’s buildings, forgotten stories and strange little urban afterlives, and Newtown, he told Time Out Joburg, is one of those classic Johannesburg places of “ups and downs” that has long shifted between industry, culture and neglect.

“Historically, Newtown almost makes the most sense as a walking tour. This was the site of Johannesburg’s first forced removal after the Boer War, as well as the city’s first power station and tram infrastructure. Walk through it now and those layers are still there: Sci-Bono sits inside one of the old electrical buildings, the Workers Museum occupies former workers’ huts, the market buildings still hold the story of the precinct’s commercial life, and the silos and industrial remnants speak to everything this part of Joburg has been. Few neighbourhoods in the city have gone through this much change and still wear so much of it on the surface.”

That complexity is exactly what makes it worth visiting. In Latilla’s telling, Newtown was once “the driving force of the city”, first as a centre of power generation and transport, then as a market district where goods arrived by rail and where businesses grew up around commerce. Later, it became one of the city’s great cultural experiments, with the Market Theatre at its heart. As he points out, entertainment has been one of Newtown’s constants, and that still feels true now, whether you’re heading in for a matinee, a museum stop, a hip hop exhibition, or a long night at one of the clubs clustered around Gwigwi Mrwebi Street.

What’s Newtown known for?

Newtown is one of Joburg’s most historic cultural precincts, but it’s always been more than that. This was once a hard-working part of the city, shaped by markets, cold storage, power infrastructure, transport and industry. Over time, those spaces were transformed into some of the city’s best theatres, museums, public squares and music venues. It’s also one of the few places in Joburg where you can still feel all those layers at once: the old fruit market turned theatre, the square under the freeway, the jazz legacy painted onto pillars, the hip hop museum inside Museum Africa, and the clubs still carrying the area after dark.

How do I get to Newtown?

Newtown sits right on the edge of the inner city, so it’s easy enough to reach from Braamfontein, Fordsburg, Maboneng and the northern suburbs if you’re driving in. The best approach is to choose one anchor point, usually the Market Theatre precinct, Museum Africa or Newtown Junction, and work from there on foot. Parking at Newtown Junction is the easiest option if you want a relatively simple in-and-out, especially if you’re doing a daytime circuit that turns into dinner or drinks later.

What’s nearby?

Newtown brushes up against some of the city’s most interesting older districts. Braamfontein is nearby if you want to continue the day with coffee, galleries or a younger student buzz. Fordsburg is close if you want your next stop to revolve around food. The Bag Factory Artists’ Studios sits right on that western edge, close enough to fold into a broader Newtown day if you want to add artist studios and an exhibition to the mix.

If you only do one thing…

Walk the precinct slowly in the daytime, start at the Market Theatre, stop in at Museum Africa and the South African Hip Hop Museum, take in the murals and musical history around Mary Fitzgerald Square, have lunch at Niki’s Oasis, and then decide whether you’re heading home or staying out for a dance.

If you’re looking to turn your visit into a staycation, you can find everything from luxury suites to cosy garden flats on Booking.com or Airbnb.

Map of Newtown

The best things to do in Newtown

Culture

The Market Theatre remains the beating heart of the precinct and one of South Africa’s most important stages. Even if you’re not seeing a show, it’s worth starting here because so much of Newtown’s identity still radiates out from the complex. The fact that this giant of South African theatre was created inside the old Indian fruit market only adds to the sense of place.

Make time for Museum Africa, too. Newtown isn’t always an especially polished arts district, but the museum still has one of the country’s most invaluable permanent collections, and is custodian to extraordinary things, so it is well-worth a visit. And tucked inside it is one of the precinct’s cooler new additions: the South African Hip Hop Museum, a project started by Osmic Menoe, founder of Back to the City. It’s interactive, free to visit, and connected to a much bigger story about how Newtown became central to South African hip hop culture, not just jazz and theatre.

Then there’s the Workers Museum, which is a quick visit and very close to the Red Bus stop. Housed in a former migrant workers’ compound, it’s a powerful reminder that Newtown is not only about culture and performance. It’s also about the labour that built it, and the infrastructure that exists because of those workers.

If you’re with children, or just feeling sci-curious, the Sci-Bono Discovery Centre is still a smart stop. Newtown can sometimes feel heavy with history, so a stop at Sci-Bono is an important refresher.

Art, street culture and music history

We’d recommend treating Newtown a bit like an open-air cultural trail. Around Mary Fitzgerald Square and under the M1, the neighbourhood’s music history has been painted back into public view through large-scale murals and street art honouring jazz legends like Miriam Makeba, Jonas Gwangwa, Busi Mhlongo, Kippie Moeketsi and Sibongile Khumalo. 

There are smaller art stops worth folding in, too, into your walking art tour. Umhlabathi Gallery, on Helen Joseph Street, is the home of the Umhlabathi Collective and focuses on photography, which feels right in a precinct where public memory and image-making have always mattered.

And while it sits on the broader edge of this circuit rather than in the middle of the square itself, the Bag Factory Artists’ Studios is worth knowing about if you want your Newtown day to lean more towards contemporary art than museum history. It remains one of Joburg’s most important artist studio spaces.

Advertising

Lunch

Newtown isn’t a restaurant neighbourhood in the way Parkhurst or Rosebank might be, but it has one lunch stop that’s a must on any good Joburg itinerary. Niki’s Oasis, across the road from the Market Theatre and Mary Fitzgerald Square, is the sort of spot where you stop in for a bite, and the whole thing slips into something more soulful. It’s long been part restaurant, part jazz haunt, part cultural institution, and it still makes more sense than anywhere else in the precinct as the place to pause for lunch.

After dark

And then, of course, there’s the nightlife. Newtown’s all-out party years may be behind it, but the cluster around 39 Gwigwi Mrwebi Street is still essential doing for any Joburg party night. And Club is the big one: the home of Joburg’s techno scene, with its ToyToy residency at cult-status. Carfax next door is an institution in its own right, now operating more on a party basis, broadening its programming to include a hefty scope of genres and still carrying plenty of Newtown’s club history.

One of And Club’s resident DJ’s “Hayley Illing aka Illing gives us the downlow: “Newtown has always been a special place to experience Joburg’s raw club culture and the authentic community behind it. And Club opened 10 years ago and so much has happened around that space since then. The weekend kicks off every Friday at TOYTOY and it’s my favourite place to let loose.”

As ever in Joburg, it’s worth asking around once you’re out. Clubs and after-hours spots in and around Newtown open, close, move and resurface all the time, so the best way to find out what else is happening nearby is often to ask the people already on the dance floor.

Advertising

Who is Newtown for?

Newtown is for people who like their Johannesburg outings with a bit more meaning and a bit more edge. It suits theatre-goers, museum lovers, students, people who follow the city’s music scene, photographers, families doing Sci-Bono, and anyone who wants a day in the city that can begin with public history and end with a dance floor. It’s not the neighbourhood for dawdling from boutique to boutique. 

Know before you go

Best time to arrive: Mid-morning if you want to do the museums and walk the precinct properly, or late afternoon if you want to catch the light on the murals and slide into drinks or a club night.

Parking: Park once, then walk. Newtown Junction is usually the easiest option if you want a simple in-and-out.

How to do it properly: Pick one cultural anchor, a show, a museum, a gallery, then keep the rest flexible. It is, however, best explored with purpose rather than by wandering, especially if you’re new to the area.

Newtown is one of those Joburg neighbourhoods that reveals itself slowly. It’s layered, atmospheric and full of stories. The trick is not to head off, but to stitch together a few good stops and take your time in each one. That’s when the precinct really opens up.

RECOMMENDED

📍 The best things to do in Johannesburg
🛏️ Where to stay in Johannesburg
🏨 The best hotels in Johannesburg
🍽 The best restaurants in Johannesburg
🍺 The best pubs and bars in Johannesburg 

Time Out makes a small commission from the affiliate links included in this article. These links have no influence on our editorial content, but they do help us to bring you more recommendations every week. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines.

Recommended
    Latest news
      Advertising