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Review
Like the casino in which it’s housed, America is terrific fun. In both, a simple concept is executed with wonderfully playful enthusiasm. The all-purpose menu offers innumerable dishes from across the country, many of them inspired by a particular corner of the US: chicken quesadillas by way of Albuquerque, for example, or Philadelphia cheese steaks. It’s not really about the authenticity, mind; this is just good, solid cooking served with an exclamation mark, a wide smile and a heartfelt "have a nice day!"
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