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The prevalence of so many excellent seafood restaurants in this desert resort town remains baffling to outsiders, and understandably so. But Aquaknox stands as solid proof that with a little expense and a good deal of effort, it’s possible to conjure up excellent fish out of next to nothing. Served in a sleek room that nods constantly to the cuisine’s watery theme, Tom Moloney’s food lets its fresh ingredients do the work. Good idea.