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The enormous (and, yes, golden) steer that signposts this old-school steak place on Sahara Avenue also advertises its decor. Discreet it certainly is not: think updated bordello crossed with an Old West saloon and you’re almost there. But the steaks are classic: large, juicy and perfectly grilled. Sinatra and Dino both ate here; four-plus decades later, it remains vintage Vegas at its most unreconstructed.