What is it? Refined, artistic cooking is an assuming setting.
Why we love it: The ‘workbench’, as l’établi translates, is far fancier than the name would suggest. Décor is modern and stripped back, with tables designed to look like carpenter’s benches, artistically scored with ruler-straight lines. Customers choose their own bread knives when they arrive, before tucking into one of three fixed menus for lunch (three, six or seven courses). In the evening it’s the full seven or à la carte. While every dish is served with exquisite artistry, it's in the simple things that you truly appreciate the quality of their produce. It’s impossible not to cut another slice of the crusty cob served with black sesame butter, even when you’re on course five.
Time Out tip: There are surprise ‘extra’ courses, but if we told you which, we’d have to kill you.
Address: 22 rue Remparts d’Ainay 69002
Opening hours: Tuesday-Saturdays 12-1.30pm, 7.30-9.30pm, closed Sundays and Mondays
Expect to pay: From €42 per head for lunch