Cumulatively enjoyable, this restuarant-set entertainment blends mobster thriller, ensemble chamber piece and subtly affecting dynastic social drama. Aiello gives one of his graceful yet quietly formidable performances as the owner of an Italian eatery in NY's Tribeca that has recently gone 'nouvelle' under the influence of his son, an arrogant celebrity chef. 'When did eating dinner become a Broadway show?' drawls bigshot food writer Bernhard, as director Giraldi speeds expertly from the kitchens to the covers, perfectly capturing the dynamism and diversity of a busy evening through a string of colourful vignettes, paced to a good jazz, opera and fast beat score. Aiello is the anchor, surveying the business from his table like a benevolent lord, dispensing advice both culinary and personal - not least to his other, dangerously impecunious gambler son. If it's finally a little too neat, that's a small price to pay for such a smorgasbord of small delights.