‘You can’t build new property in the centre of Naples so you have to work from the inside out’ so says Andreana from the front office of Artemisia Domus in Naples’ Centro Storico. In the UNESCO world heritage rated historic centre of 500 domes, this renovated palazzo offers a place to stay for the night, where Italian conviviality meets historical grandeur.
Why stay at Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico?
Billed not as a hotel but as luxury accommodation, this eight-bedroom boutique guest house keeps itself as something of a secret to the outside world, tucked away inside a historic building. The centro storico 18th century palazzo was once home to a family of notable, noble character, restored and reformatted in 2018 by owner Sebastiano Liotta, whose aim is to bring historical buildings back to life where the feeling is always something close to home: ‘this is why we lay the breakfast tables close together, for example’ says Andreana, adding they want people to feel like they’re at home – eating together and feeling free to strike up conversation.
What are the rooms like at Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico?
Suites and bedrooms flank the central hallway, ranging in size and orientation, but each with their own quirky array of amenities. Some have huge chromotherapy whirlpool jacuzzi baths, but ‘Minerva’ has a private sauna with emotional shower, and ‘Cleopatra’ an in-built bar station, stand-alone exercise bike and fresco-decorated walls – my favourite room of them all. While my bathroom in Nicea (huntress nymph and lover of wine-god Dionysus) felt a little tired, the others are seemingly well maintained and each offer Artemisia Domus branded toiletries, a mini-bar containing all the ingredients you need to make a Campari Spritz, as well as Molinari Sambuca and Jagermeister miniatures. Smart TVs come as standard, and robes and slippers are placed in the bathrooms above branded, fluffy white towels. In-room information is all accessed via QR code, as are maps to the city, and the hotel’s own magazine – a techy hangover from the pandemic perhaps, dubbed ‘eco-conscious’ but something that most other bars and restaurants in the city still also adopt for viewing menus (wifi is usually available, also reached by scanning a different QR code).
Room decor is minimal, colourful and contemporary, while the building’s legacy is preserved in the form of original wooden-beamed high ceilings that add cool contrast to its newer, more modern design. Some rooms have large wooden shutters – the west-facing suites all overlook St. Elmo castle on the hill (a great area to explore and people watch, reached by nearby ‘F2’ cablecar from Stazione di Montesanto), while the smaller rooms each have external ‘Neopolitan’ blinds to keep the bright sun at bay during warmer months. Suites are spacious, beds are comfortable and walls are soundproofed making this a peaceful place to rest after a busy day’s sightseeing.
What is the food like at Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico?
Breakfast is an exciting affair with pastries and a variety of little cakes (no less than seven on my count) – a Napoletano speciality you’ll see echoed in the city’s bakeries. There’s also a smoothie machine, and you can order eggs to your liking, as well as included barista-style coffee. From the bar order a glass of Elena Walch wine (coming from the Alto Adige in northern Italy), bottles of Prosecco or glasses of more regionally-unique limoncello, grappa or amaro.
What is the service like at Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico?
Service is English fluent and received with a smile. A small, young team runs and works this refurbished Palazzo – and the owner’s other property in the city. Friendly and down to earth hosts help to make your stay pleasant and comfortable, with city sites, restaurants and sunset spot recommendations on hand whenever you’d like.
What are the facilities like at Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico?
Communal spaces where breakfast is served alongside drinks from the bar are draped in hues of pink, with quirky and cool artwork adorning the walls. At one end there is a small library; at the other a fireplace that lights up in cooler months to add an extra degree of cosy – glass chess board, optional. Alongside the rooms individual features of spa-baths, sauna or exercise bike, externally provided SPA massage services are bookable to your room for an extra fee. Without the flashy facade of an upscale hotel, you might wonder what you have let yourself in for, climbing four stories either in the building’s communal glass elevator, or taking the imposing stone staircase – be prepared for some stairs either side. But what awaits on the other side is nothing short of a beautifully styled, friendly, inner sanctum.
What is the area like around Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico?
Artemisia Domus’ calling card, beyond what happens inside, must be its central location. In five minutes you’ll find yourself in Piazza del Gesù, a few minutes more will take you past red-lipped ladies and long-haired gents weaving their artisan wares next to the St Chiara Monastery, up and along to Sansevero Chapel where the Veiled Christ lies, and to Pio Monte della Miscorderia where you’ll find Caravaggio's The Seven Works of Mercy. If you continue past pretty Piazza Bellini with her tree-lined avenues that contrast with the colourful graffiti that interjects street-side, you’ll reach the National Archaeological Museum. Try a typical Babà or Sfogliatella pastry here at Infante Leopoldo café (the branch next to the museum is specifically dedicated to all things gluten and lactose free).
You’re also ten minutes from Sorbillo, one of the best pizza spots in Naples. Head to Oak Napoli for craft beer and natural wine, open late. Football here is inescapable, especially along Spaccanapoli, one of Naples's most colourful streets. At the other end of the cultural spectrum, literary lovers can enjoy hanging out with the statue of Dante Alighieri, Italy’s very own Shakespeare, while browsing bookshops that litter the adjoining streets. Libreria Berisio, a ten minute walk, turns into a fun late night bar as well as daytime café.
Between a trio of nearby Metro stations (Universitá, Dante, and Toledo), the Metro is also worth checking out as a standalone site - Toledo station is of significant colourful interest. Rides to and from the port and the Napoli centrale station are an easy contactless public transport ride or Uber away, while Castel Nuovo (a Medieval fort, currently closed for refurbishment) is a great area for a sunset aperitivo or seafood dinner at Zi Teresa.
Why you should you book a stay at Artemisia Domus, Naples Centro Storico
For a stylish stay in a city that never stops partying, Artemisia Domus is a sleek spot in a colourfully authentic neighbourhood where personalised service is made possible due to its boutique nature. Busy periods are through April-June, in August the city empties out of locals but it doesn’t stop the thirst for fun times. As my taxi driver said on the way in from the airport (also bookable through reception) ‘C’e sempre una Napoli in festa’ – ‘Naples is always celebrating something’. You can also check out Artemisia Domus’s coveted, newer Giardino property – closer to the port, next door to top-rated Pizzeria Diego Vitagliano, boasting its own private garden with a brighter and more traditionally romantic vibe.
DETAILS
Address: Via dei Carrozzieri a Monteoliveto, 13 80134, Napoli, Italy
Price per night: starting from €180 per night (open year round)
Closest transport: Universitá, Dante, and Toledo