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Photo: Stand Umineko | Stand Umineko 3tR
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10 of the best standing bars in Osaka

Where to drink on your feet and get a feel for the city’s distinctive bar culture

Edward Hewes
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Osaka’s tachinomi – literally ‘stand and drink’ – bars are where the city’s famed hospitality comes most naturally to the fore. Often cash-only and walk-in only, they’re less formal than an izakaya, much chattier than your conventional bar and an essential part of Japanese drinking culture.

There are literally hundreds of these joints across Osaka: traditional kakuuchi attached to liquor stores, no-frills drinking holes slipped into shopping streets, and modern, food-focused establishments retrofitted into renovated machiya townhouses. They are also just as often a destination for exceptional food and wine as for cheap drinks and some of the best bar bites in the world.

While drinking until you drop is not advised, a standing bar is a crucial stop on any mission to enjoy one of Osaka’s favourite pastimes, kuidaore – or eating until you drop. To help, here are ten of Osaka’s best, covering the full breadth of its scene.

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Stand up for these 10

  • Izakaya
  • Osaka

If Osaka’s standing-bar scene has an internationally recognised face, it’s the blowtorch-wielding one of Toyo-san. Featured on Netflix’s Street Food, Izakaya Toyo has weathered a decade of fame without losing what made it famous in the first place.

The format is refreshingly casual and a welcome break from the busy criss-crossing of shops and streets that is Kyobashi. Mostly outdoors, you’re first greeted with the smell of barbecuing fish, tables on the pavement, and a tub of ice out front from where you fetch your own drinks and leave the empty for the tab at the end. Toyo-san himself retired recently, but his successors have changed nothing.

The main draw is the exceptional seafood, with sashimi-grade maguro, uni, ikura and hand-rolled sushi rolls – plus the headline act of the braised tuna cheek, which is turned bare-handed on a charcoal grill by a blowtorch-wielding chef. 

The catch is the hours: Toyo is closed on Sundays, Mondays, Thursdays and public holidays, with last orders at 6.30pm and a queue that reliably forms before the 1pm opening. That’s partly why Tachinomi Shomin around the corner, open from 11am, is Toyo’s natural follow-on for anyone turning up on the wrong day or wanting to keep going past 7pm.

  • Izakaya
  • Osaka

Tachinomi Shomin is what an Osakan would immediately recognise as precisely what a standing bar is supposed to be. The refrain ‘it’s cheap and delicious here’ is as popular among patrons when the bill arrives as it is important for the owner, who built the bar to be that way.

Shomin has kept the form of the tachinomi pure: handwritten menus on the wall, a tiled L-shaped counter, scores of regulars, and prices so low that when its Kyobashi location opened in 2019, the surrounding bars supposedly had to drop their own to compete.

And it is indeed unbelievably cheap. Dishes top out around ¥500, and a draft beer or highball will only set you back ¥350. A few thousand yen and you soon find yourself with more plates than fit on the table: tataki, cold seared beef with garlic; hanpamaki, mixed-fish sushi rolls of whatever’s fresh that day; fried sausages; and fried chicken.

While the bar was founded in Kyoto, it crossed into Osaka with this Kyobashi outpost and has since spread to Temma, Umeda, Tenmabashi, Nishi-Nakajima, Juso and Takatsuki. The Kyobashi flagship is a fantastic follow-on to Izakaya Toyo above: it’s just around the corner and has much more forgiving opening hours while bringing you back into the bustle of Kyobashi.

But whatever the location, the cash-only Shomin bars are adored by locals, and with doors open from 11am, every single one sees a steady daytime trade, be it a weekday or a weekend. Just look for the iconic door hanging with the angled gentleman enjoying what is presumably not his first drink.

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  • Osaka

Matsuura Liquor Store gives you a glimpse into a kakuuchi, a working liquor store with a place to drink. It’s the format standing bars grew out of, but few proper examples remain in central Osaka. 

It gives nothing away from the outside, just a plain shopfront that’s easy to walk past if you don’t know what you’re looking for. Inside is a massive Showa-era throwback: the room is bigger and airier than you’d expect, with bottle-lined walls, a long bare counter, and a TV that lends the place a living-room feel for the thirty or so drinkers it holds.

The drinks and quiet atmosphere here are the point. Shochu and highballs are served deconstructed, snack-bar style: one cup of shochu or whisky, one of ice, a jug of water, and a glass for you to mix it yourself. 

The father-and-son team back up the drink with an array of unpriced dishes from the handwritten menu, most coming in at around ¥500. The service can come across as a little no-nonsense, but the regulars are welcoming and it’s worth it for an unfiltered sight of a proper Osaka institution.

  • Izakaya
  • Osaka

Tiger Lily takes the bones of an Osaka standing bar – counter, standing room, cheap plates – and refreshes them with stained glass, vintage furniture and cardamom-spiked highballs. 

The trick is finding it first. To get there, you’ll first need to orient yourself in the bustle of the Ohatsutenjin shotengai near Umeda, find a nondescript staircase, and head down into a harshly lit underground corridor before a set of traditional Japanese sliding doors, wholly out of place, give the game away. Inside, the space opens up, with high ceilings, bare concrete, and a U-shaped open kitchen flanked by vintage chests-of-drawers for tables. 

The food belongs to the school of small-plate izakaya cooking and most dishes come in well under ¥1,000: tonpeiyaki, beef tongue tataki, chicken liver sashimi dressed in tamari and ginger, and a thick but mini okonomiyaki strung with three cheeses.

The drinks are split between the unusual and the familiar. Besides the cardamom highball, you’ll find natural wine and a well-stocked sake list. Tiger Lily is elevated but not precious, working equally well for the late stages of a Friday night and a quiet weekday drink.

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  • Osaka

Found in Nakatsu, Japoni is a standing bar for foodies. Plates here arrive from across Japanese, French, Asian and South American cuisines but with a husband and wife behind the bar both trained in Italian restaurants, the menu never really stays still.

On any given evening you might find Russian-style pelmeni, Nepali choila and Turkish pide, or lamb chops and frites straight from a French bistro. To drink there’s fermented tea leaf sours, natural wines on weekly rotations, as well as your usual standing bar staples. 

The tasteful setting is also a draw. Its high ceilings but low lighting and warm, coppery hues make it feel cozy, and effortlessly tucks you away in a rapture of good food and drinks – especially if you’re lucky enough to bag the table in the churchlike alcove at the back.

It’s best to check ahead on their Instagram to make sure they’re open, but the bar is a perfect starter for an evening – or a destination meal.

  • Osaka

Make One Two is a standing bar that rewards curious eaters with a menu that travels so adventurously through the Asian continent that it’s deliciously difficult to stop ordering. 

The menu is redone frequently, but on any given night you can expect inventive dishes like pork-and-kiwi summer rolls, snow-crab japchae, seared lamb tataki, chicken gizzard masala confit and Thai-style gai yang chicken. The drinks lean as far afield as the food with Sichuan pepper highballs, a house medicinal sangria and a clam dashi tomato sour. 

The menu may take a leap from the usual standing bar small plates, but the wraparound bar and central kitchen put you face-to-face with the staff and customers on the other side, making for a classically convivial bar that can be rather hard to leave.

It occupies the ground floor of the Ikoma Building, a Registered Tangible Cultural Property from 1930 on Sakaisuji with big glass frontage and plenty of natural light pouring in from the street. Plus, with a capacity of around 25, it’s one of the bigger standing bars on this list and does well for groups.

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  • Wine bars
  • Osaka

Not just one of Osaka’s finest standing bars, Winestand Perche is also one of Osaka’s best wine bars. 

The owner Toshi focuses on natural wines, specifically French natural wines. He spent a year there, travelling from vineyard to vineyard by ringing up and offering to cook Japanese fare in return for the chance to immerse himself in the thing he loves most. 

Now, he brings that same passion to a bar that scarcely fits more than ten patrons at a time, but boasts a wine collection that has since become far too large for the bar itself and is also stored in fridges in his apartment. 

Toshi eschews a wine list to ask what you fancy and pours accordingly with all the class of a master sommelier. But there is a menu for food which is intentionally light and unsurprisingly French – think carrot rapée, croque-monsieurs, salamis and cheeses. 

Along with the ambiance, Toshi’s calming presence and midnight closing time, the handmade desserts also make a serious case for Winestand Perche being one of the best places in Osaka for a post-dinner nightcap.

  • Wine bars
  • Osaka

Uoyaki is proof that the best places are still worth hunting for. Genuinely hidden, deep in Temma’s warren of backstreets with the smallest sign of them all, the standing bar occupies a 100-year-old machiya whose earthen walls and original roof trusses are lit theatrically, like a tiny gallery built for eating and drinking in.

The food is focused on haiboshi-style fish, in which the catch is wrapped and buried in volcanic ash rather than left in the open air, drawing out moisture slowly while locking in fat and flavour, before it’s finished over charcoal right in front of you. Other seasonal dishes then round out the menu.

Wine is the other half of the draw. Uoyaki specialises in natural wine, poured with the kind of confidence and specificity that puts it closer to a dedicated wine bar than a standing boozer with a decent list.

Like we said, it’s a small space, and the inevitable trade-off of somewhere this hidden and this good is that it fills up fast. If your luck runs out, Uoyaki Winestand – their sister location and Osaka’s smallest wine bar – serves the same selection of wine in an equally theatrical setting with cheese and cured meats to nibble on.

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  • Craft beer pubs
  • Osaka

Stand Umineko 3tR is a taproom by Osaka brewery Derailleur Brew Works. Located in Shinsaibashi, its large glass frontage puts its 25 beer taps on full display, making no secret that this is a beer-first standing bar.

With a line-up of all-Japanese craft beer and a policy of opening a keg of something new once something else runs out, the selection keeps moving. There are always crowd pleasers, though, with choices ranging from Derailleur’s own brews to creations by microbreweries across the country.

Their signature dish is a pair of house-made pork buns made with dough worked through with spent grain pulled straight from Derailleur’s own brewing process. These are complemented by a rotating list of snacks perfect for pairing with beers.

Derailleur Brew Works started in 2018 in Nishinari, the Osaka ward best known for the alcohol-fuelled riots of the 1990s and a long-standing culture of drinking from the morning. The brewery’s debut beer, Nishinari Riot Ale, was named accordingly. 

What the headlines miss is that Derailleur is a social enterprise of several hundred employees, many in recovery from addiction, homelessness or struggling with physical or mental disability, and one of the most quietly important beer projects in Japan.

  • Osaka

Famous for treating its draft beer the way a third-wave coffee shop treats espresso, and spinning records while that happens, Yacipoci is one of Osaka’s more stylish standing bars.

Its single tap of Asahi’s Maruefu gets poured seven different ways – including a foam-focused ‘Mirko’ and a house-named ‘Yacipoci-tsugi’ – using a technique inherited from the legendary Hiroshima beer stand Shigetomi. This means that the same beer can taste like four different ones, depending on how they pour it.

You’ll find the bar just off the Higashi-Yokobori canal, making the most of a renovated building with vaulted ceilings to offer an open but sheltered space flush with plants, driftwood, dried flowers, white walls and warm lighting. 

Yacipoci fills up after 5pm with regulars who come for a snack just as much as for a drink and a tune. There’s braised ribs cooked in Maruefu, Japanese-style keema curry, fried tofu stuffed with ground chicken, and quiches and Basque cheesecakes from Nakatsu’s Oeuf.

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