Edward is a writer based in Osaka. When he’s not exploring the city for new things to do and to write about, he’s out hiking in Kansai and beyond, summiting mountains and finding the best places to swim and soak in the scenery.

Edward Hewes

Edward Hewes

Contributor

Articles (3)

9 amazing places to see autumn leaves in Osaka

9 amazing places to see autumn leaves in Osaka

Autumn in Japan is breathtaking. Successive waves of different trees trading their summer greens for shades of crimson and gold create a month-long spectacle that leaves the countryside and cities awash in some of the world’s most striking autumn colours. In Kansai, Kyoto often takes the spotlight as the top autumn destination, but Osaka also boasts its own fantastic ways to enjoy the season. From illuminated boulevards and urban parks that provide a stunning contrast to the city’s concrete jungle, to nearby mountains, rivers and waterfalls offering quick escapes into quieter landscapes, Osaka features a range of vibrant and unique autumn experiences. Moreover, after a record-breaking hot summer in Japan this year, the autumn colours are expected to be especially brilliant, as the prolonged sun exposure has enhanced the pigments in the leaves. So, if you find yourself in Osaka during November or December, rest assured – each of the following attractions offers the awe-inspiring splendour of Japan’s dazzling autumn foliage. BEFORE YOU GO: Check out the latest official forecast on the best times to see autumn colours in Osaka and Kyoto
6 best rooftop gardens in Osaka to relax and enjoy free city views

6 best rooftop gardens in Osaka to relax and enjoy free city views

As one of Japan’s largest cities, Osaka is naturally home to a host of sky-piercing towers. While the views from these skyscrapers may not be as instantly recognisable as Tokyo's cityscape, the sights of Osaka Bay, Osaka Castle and the surrounding mountain ranges are no less captivating. Crucially, many of these buildings don’t just offer stunning views; they also hide relaxing rooftop gardens, lush with greenery and open to the public for free. So the next time you're looking to escape the crowds, don't duck into a café – look up. RECOMMENDED: Looking for more places to relax? Here are nine of the best beaches in and near Osaka
9 best beaches in and near Osaka

9 best beaches in and near Osaka

Osaka may not be renowned for its beaches, but there are plenty close enough for a quick summer escape to enjoy the balmy sea breeze. Both the northern and southern shores of Osaka Bay are well served by trains from the city’s main stations – even the Pacific Coast is reachable within a morning. Whether you’re after clear waters, surfing, sauna, water sports, barbecue, fresh seafood or scenic coastal views, the following beaches are all accessible from Osaka by train or bus, most within an hour or two. RECOMMENDED: 8 reasons why Osaka is so hot right now (and we don't mean the weather)

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Seseragi Marche in Tsurumi Ryokuchi Park

Seseragi Marche in Tsurumi Ryokuchi Park

Every Sunday, the central boulevard of Tsurumi Ryokuchi Park hosts Seseragi Marche, a relaxed, family-friendly market surrounded by the greenery of one of Osaka’s most beloved urban parks. From 9am to 4pm, visitors can browse a rotating line-up of local vendors offering everything from fresh seasonal produce and handmade crafts to hot meals and sweet treats from colourful food trucks. The stalls change weekly, so there’s always something new to discover. But expect to find anything from fragrant karaage, tacos and even pizza alongside crêpes and baked goods. When the weather is good, the atmosphere feels more like a picnic than a market: visitors spread out under the trees, dogs roaming along the paths, and live music or local community events often add to the charm. The market is the perfect complement to an easy Sunday in nature without leaving the city.
Ohatsu Tenjin Flea Market

Ohatsu Tenjin Flea Market

Hidden among the high-rises of Umeda, Tsuyutenjin Shrine – affectionately known as Ohatsu Tenjin – hosts one of Osaka’s most charming flea markets on the first and third Friday of every month. The market is modest in size, but its convenient location makes it a must-visit for treasure hunters looking for something a bit more down-to-earth compared to the commercial bustle of central Osaka. On any given week there can be between 10 to 20 vendors set up beneath the shrine’s stone lanterns, offering a mix of antiques, pottery, retro and Showa-era goods. The atmosphere is quietly magical. The 1,300-year-old shrine, dedicated to the deities of love and good fortune, is best known for the tragic tale of Ohatsu and Tokubei – Japan’s own Romeo and Juliet. Today, couples visit to hang heart-shaped ema (wish plaques) and pray for lasting love before browsing the market’s retro curiosities.
Candlelight : The World of Joe Hisaishi

Candlelight : The World of Joe Hisaishi

This autumn, Osaka’s Ohtsuki Noh Theatre will be illuminated by the soft, golden glow of Candlelight Concerts: The World of Joe Hisaishi, a series of Studio Ghibli–themed performances presented by Fever. A leading figure in contemporary and film music, Joe Hisaishi is globally celebrated for his long-standing collaboration with Studio Ghibli director Hayao Miyazaki, composing the unforgettable scores that shaped films such as Spirited Away, My Neighbour Totoro and Howl’s Moving Castle. Audiences can expect timeless pieces from all three of those films and many more, brought to life by some of Japan’s finest string quartets, including Chamber Music Atelier Kobe and Quartet Acanthus.  The Ohtsuki Noh Theatre is the ideal setting for Hisaishi’s emotive compositions; when surrounded by candlelight its raised stage appears to float and its elegant wooden pagoda draws audiences into an intimate, dreamlike space. So, as the nights draw in, cosy up and immerse yourself in the nostalgic melodies of some of Ghibli’s best soundtracks while the gentle glow of candlelight transports you to the heart of the films’ enchanting worlds. The series is running until early December and prices and times vary depending on the date, so make sure to check the event website for full details.
Boiler Room Osaka

Boiler Room Osaka

Boiler Room is back. After a two-year hiatus, for one night only, on October 26, Osaka will see the return of the world’s most viral DJ sets. As ever with Boiler Room, the full details are being kept under wraps. What we do know is that the event will be held outside in Osaka’s artsiest neighbourhood, Kitakagaya, and if it’s anything like the last edition – which saw DJ Ryota and FullHouse go viral for their sets – it will not be an evening dance music lovers should miss. Tickets are now on sale on a first come first serve basis, so grab them while you can.
Kurama Fire Festival

Kurama Fire Festival

Every year on October 22, the otherwise small and peaceful onsen town of Kurama, nestled on the outskirts of Kyoto, is engulfed in one of the region’s most extraordinary festivals. Held to commemorate the relocation of Yuki Shrine from Kyoto to Kurama over a thousand years ago, the spirited Kurama Fire Festival attracts thousands to witness its fiery display of cultural heritage and community spirit. From dusk to midnight, the narrow streets of Kurama come alive with a series of blazing processions. Bonfires are lit across the town, and hundreds of taimatsu (torches) in various sizes – ranging from handheld to 4-metres-long versions weighing more than 80kg – are paraded through the streets, culminating in a spectacular gathering at the gates of Yuki Shrine.  Here, the torch procession gives way to a more traditional matsuri, but still infused with a fiery dose of machismo that defines the festival. In a powerful display of strength, local men carry down two mikoshi (portable shrines) from the mountain and parade them around the village before the event draws to a close. The festival feels like something out of a bygone era, and it’s easy to get swept up in the fervour of the night. While that’s very much part of the experience, be sure to take care as you make your way to, through and from the festivities. The streets are narrow and crowded, and with open flames all around, it pays to be cautious. It’s also worth keeping in mind that while the festival is hugely popular, Kura
Ikoma Autumn Equinox Lantern Festival

Ikoma Autumn Equinox Lantern Festival

In Japan, the autumn equinox is a culturally significant event that traditionally marks the end of the harvest season and is accompanied by observances across the country. For those in Osaka, one of the most magical of these seasonal celebrations can be found at Hozanji, a majestic mountaintop temple located halfway between the city and Nara and only 40 minutes from Umeda. Every year, as dusk falls on the equinoctial night, more than 1,000 paper lanterns lining the long stone staircase to the temple are set alight, along with more than 10,000 candles dotting the temple’s precincts. The effect is as stunning as it is moving; the lanterns, adorned with poems, prayers, and pictures drawn by kindergartners and local artists, cast a fantastical, guiding glow through the neighbourhood and up the mountain. The staircase has around 300 steps, so the walk is not for the faint-hearted – but emerging from the crowds into a temple festooned with candles flickering off the surrounding statues, pavilions and forest is well worth it. The community really comes together for this event, and whether you choose to walk from Ikoma Station or take the cable car, you’ll find no shortage of shops, cafés and restaurants spilling out onto the street, selling food and drink or playing music. This also means you can take from the evening what you need from it. On the initial walk up, the atmosphere is uplifting and lively, while the further you go, the more serene and contemplative it becomes. Whicheve
Tenshiba Oktoberfest

Tenshiba Oktoberfest

Munich’s legendary Oktoberfest comes to Osaka this autumn with the return of Tenshiba Oktoberfest. Just like its Bavarian namesake, for 24 days, a small slice of Tennoji Park becomes a free-to-enter beer garden with covered seating and a rain-or-shine schedule. There will be more than 60 varieties of German beer on tap, from crisp pilsners and pale ales to rich wheat beers and seasonal specials, and even a beer brewed especially for Japan: Alcobräu’s Weissbier Krone. To match the beer, the gaudy get-together lays on some of the most indulgent food there is, from genuine German pub grub like bratwursts and currywursts to the not-so-Bavarian Hiroshima oysters, steak, spareribs, mussels, pizza and platters of prosciutto and salami. Each Saturday, Sunday and public holiday, the festival atmosphere gets amplified by four performances from the lively Maria & Alpenbuam, a German-style band led by the aptly named ‘Queen of Beer Halls’.
Expo Vintage Market

Expo Vintage Market

The Expo Vintage Market is Osaka’s biggest vintage and antiques market. Held at Expo ’70 Commemorative Park’s East Square, the three-day market takes on a festival feel, with more than 150 stalls, food and drink, and live music. Weather permitting it takes place twice a year, in spring and autumn.  The market specialises in antiques, with almost a hundred stalls dedicated to finds with good old-fashioned charm – from swanky Scandinavian furniture, delicate china and glassware to Mexican Zapotec rugs and extensive collections of memorabilia and Americana. Around 30 of the stalls are for second-hand clothing, but don’t expect the kind of bulk-bought clothes you find in many vintage shops. Instead, the festival is a place for vendors who take pride in personally purchasing the pieces they sell and the price that comes with that. Speaking of money, many of the vendors do accept cards, but to be on the safe side remember to bring cash.   The variety of items available at the market is also reflected in the food and drink on offer. In between bargain hunting you can sample baked goods, pizza and burgers, or a drink from one of the craft breweries, cocktail bars or speciality coffee roasters on site.
Expo Garage Sale

Expo Garage Sale

Expo ’70 Commemorative Park is home to two of Osaka’s most popular and best-attended flea markets, one in its Festival Square and one in its East Square. The Expo Garage Sale is noted for the wide range of goods its vendors sell. Expect handmade items, accessories, antiques, bric-a-brac, and plenty of second-hand and vintage clothes.  Most importantly, expect bargains. The organisers pride themselves on the market being a true-to-its-name ‘out of the garage’ sale. That means you’ll need to bring cash, and that bargaining – albeit politely – is encouraged. If you prioritise low prices over being particular about the products, know that in the afternoon, the crowding calms down and many of the amateur vendors lower their prices.  The market also attracts food trucks, and the park has several cafés and restaurants so there are plenty of options for a picnic in the park. The Expo Garage Sale takes place up to three times a month but on irregular dates and is subject to weather conditions, so make sure to check the website for an up-to-date schedule.
Hattori Ryokuchi Garage Sale

Hattori Ryokuchi Garage Sale

This second-hand market at Hattori Ryokuchi Park’s East Central Square is perfect for anyone looking to pick up a bargain while spending the day in one of Osaka’s best parks. The market showcases goods from more than 100 professional and amateur vendors. There’s plenty of variety on offer, from second-hand clothing, household goods and home décor to toys and anime collectibles. This makes it perfect for both those looking for everyday items and collectors on the hunt for something a little more special.  Meanwhile, Hattori Ryokuchi may not be Osaka’s biggest park, but it is one of its most varied. It has the Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses, a botanical garden home to a Dutch windmill and seasonal flowers that bloom all year round, and the bamboo forests of Mt Inari. Since the Ryokuchi Garage Sale isn’t the largest market that Osaka has to offer either, pairing it up with half a day in the park works perfectly. There’s even a super sento nearby where you can enjoy a soak after a day of strolling and shopping.
Oizumi Ryokuchi Garage Sale

Oizumi Ryokuchi Garage Sale

The Oizumi Ryokuchi Garage Sale in the city of Sakai in southern Osaka prefecture comes with a community feel. Among locals it has something of a treasure hunting status, with lots of thrift clothing, handmade items, toys and miscellaneous everyday items.  It also hosts independent shops from around the neighbourhood, a particular highlight among which are the greengrocers selling what’s in season, with the November event famous for persimmons. The market usually has around 200 booths, plus a few food trucks for a pick-me-up. As with many of Osaka’s markets, it’s best to bring cash.
Shimokita Craft Beer Fest

Shimokita Craft Beer Fest

Shimokita Craft Beer Fest returns in September for its eighth edition, this one a special collaboration with Moon Art Night Shimokitazawa. For the last weekend of the month, the beery bash will bring together craft breweries from across Japan to celebrate tsukimi, the autumn moon festival. From familiar faces on the capital-area craft beer scene, such as West Coast Brewing, to local taprooms such as Kaigan Brewery, each of the 11 breweries involved will be making a beer specially for the occasion. Highlights include Kyoto Brewing’s Aki no Kimagure, a limited release red IPA; Tokyo Aleworks’ Harvest Moon, a pumpkin spice ale; and TDM 1874’s roasted chestnut ale, brewed with roasted malts to capture the colour of the harvest moon. There will also be food trucks serving dishes specifically designed to pair with the beers, making the event the perfect setting to enjoy festival food, appreciate some art and – of course – toast the changing of the seasons with world-class craft beer.

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Osaka launches culinary stamp rally that rewards you for eating your way through the prefecture

Osaka launches culinary stamp rally that rewards you for eating your way through the prefecture

Osaka didn’t earn its reputation as the ‘kitchen of Japan’ by accident. But let’s be honest – with countless restaurants, local specialities and hidden gems, deciding where to eat in the city can feel overwhelming. Enter the Osaka Foodies Marathon, a new stamp rally-style event that turns the entire prefecture into a curated culinary playground. Despite the name, you won’t need running shoes – just three hours of your time. The Marathon is made up of more than fifty different food and cultural experiences across the prefecture and divided into eight slots throughout the day, so you can choose whichever best suits your schedule. The rally aims to prove that sometimes the best way to experience a city is by eating your way through it, and if there ever was a city up to that challenge, it would be Osaka. Some of the experiences showcase the city’s culinary classics, while others take you further to discover lesser-known corners of the prefecture’s rich culinary scene. Want to explore a port town at dawn, when the seafood is at its absolute freshest and the marble-stone beach glows with sunrise? Sorted. Fancy ending an all-nighter in Dotonbori with a traditional Japanese breakfast after strolling the usually packed Midosuji in blissful emptiness? There’s a card for that. Prefer hitting up a café in nature-rich Nose, or snagging exquisite ohagi (sweet rice cakes) in Toyonaka before a walk through Osaka’s largest park? The Marathon has you covered. Osaka Foodies Marathon You also
大阪で食べ歩きを時間帯ごとに提案する「OSAKA FOODIES MARATHON」がスタート

大阪で食べ歩きを時間帯ごとに提案する「OSAKA FOODIES MARATHON」がスタート

大阪が「天下の台所」と呼ばれるようになったのは偶然ではない。しかし正直なところ、数え切れないほどのレストラン、郷土料理、隠れた名店があるこの街で、どこで食事をするか決めるのは難問だろう。そこで登場したのが「OSAKA FOODIES MARATHON」だ。大阪府全体を厳選されたグルメの遊び場に変える、新しいスタンプラリー形式のイベントである。 名前に「マラソン」と入っているが実際に走るわけではないので、ランニングシューズは不要。必要なのはたった3時間だけだ。同イベントは大阪府内にある50以上の食と文化体験で構成されている。一日を3時間ずつ、8つの時間帯に分けられたカード(物理的なもの、またはLINE経由のデジタル版)が用意されており、自分のスケジュールに最も合った時間帯を選んで店を「はしご」するという趣旨である。 このラリーを体験すれば、「大阪の街を体験する最良の方法の一つは食べ歩くこと」だということが分かるだろう。大阪の定番グルメから、市外のまだあまり知られていない隠れた名店まで、さまざまな食体験を楽しんでほしい。 夜明けの港町を探索し、新鮮な海産物を食べ、大理石のような砂浜が朝日に輝く時間を過ごしたい。オールナイトイベントの後、いつもは人でごった返す御堂筋を静けさの中で散策してから、道頓堀で伝統的な朝食で締めくくりたい。そんな希望をかなえられるカードもある。自然豊かな能勢のカフェに立ち寄ったり、豊中で絶品のおはぎをゲットしてから、大阪最大の公園を散策したりといったカードも用意されている。 また参加すれば、報酬ももらえる。カードを選び、時間帯内に指定された3つのスポットを訪れ、各場所で二次元コードをスキャンすると、その体験を「クリア」でき、報酬を受け取る権利が得られる。各レストランや観光スポット間の距離も測定されているため、体験をこなしていくうちフルマラソンの距離に向かって進んでいくのだ。 十分な距離をクリアすれば「タイムアウトマーケット大阪」で使えるクーポンが入手できる。まず4つの異なる体験を完了すると、無料ドリンクがもらえる。8つクリアすると5,000円のクーポンが当たるチャンスがあり、42kmの距離を達成すると1万円のクーポンの抽選にトライできる。 実施期間は2026年1月12日(月・祝)まで。LINEまたは市内各所でカードを受け取ることで参加可能だ。食事代は自己負担だが、それ以外のラリー参加は完全無料だ。詳細とカードの登録は、イベントの公式ウェブサイトで確認してほしい。 関連記事 『大阪で行くべきレストラン100』 『大阪・中津が「世界で最もクールな街 2025」ランキングで8位に』 『中津でしかできない7のこと』 『西九条でしかできない8のこと』
These are the three biggest trends in Japan’s craft beer scene right now

These are the three biggest trends in Japan’s craft beer scene right now

Japan’s craft beer scene is evolving faster than ever. New breweries, brewpubs, taprooms and festivals are popping up across the country, pouring inventive beers blending international styles with Japanese sensibilities. What’s emerging is not just a trend, but a maturing culture – one that’s confident, collaborative, and unmistakably Japanese. Drinkers are discovering Belgian wits laced with yuzu and sansho, sakura-infused gose (sour beer) and even shiitake porters; brewpubs and taprooms are flourishing; seasonal ingredients are giving beers a distinctly local flavour; and traditional Japanese brewing techniques are being reimagined with new intentions. To hear how the scene is evolving, we caught up with some of the country’s most exciting breweries, as well as those who were pouring beers at this year’s biggest festivals, from Fuji Rock to Shimokita Craft Beer Fest, to hear why right now is such an exciting time to be a craft beer lover in Japan. Staying in season TDM 1874 Brewery. Photo: Masatsugu Soga If craft beer has a heartbeat in Japan, it’s seasonal. The appeal of limited editions – driven by wintery, springtime, summery and autumnal novelty, not to mention social media – keeps drinkers curious and breweries constantly innovating. ‘Beer geeks are constantly seeking new stimuli,’ says Kyoto Brewing Company’s (KBC) sales manager Haruka Tsubakino. KBC runs a popular ‘Whimsical Series’ composed of four IPAs designed to reflect the mood of each season: a classic Americ
2 Osaka bars named in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2025 extended list

2 Osaka bars named in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2025 extended list

Not to be outdone by Tokyo securing three spots in the World’s 50 Best Bars 2025 list, Osaka is also raising the bar. Two of the city’s most distinctive drinking dens have earned places in this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Bars extended list, cementing Osaka’s growing reputation as one of Japan’s most exciting drinking destinations. Photo: Time Out OsakaBar Nayuta A new entry this year at No. 100, Bar Nayuta in Amemura invites guests to tumble down the rabbit hole – literally. An Alice in Wonderland–sized door hidden near an obscure symbol opposite Triangle Park leads to equally whimsical cocktail creations. These imaginative drinks may not make you larger or smaller, but they will certainly alter your perception of what a cocktail can be. With no menu, the bartenders here craft bespoke drinks tailored to each guest’s preferences using a vast collection of house-made infusions, bitters and liqueurs. Photo: CraftroomCraftroom Meanwhile, at No. 58, Craftroom continues to impress in its sophomore year on the list. Tucked away on a subterranean level under Umeda’s Osaka Ekimae Daiichi Building, this intimate bar seats just six guests at the counter, offering a front-row view of bartender Ryu Fujii’s mastery of cocktail craftsmanship. Formerly of Bar K, another of Osaka’s celebrated cocktail bars, Fujii’s seasonal menu balances precision and playfulness, while a jazz soundtrack makes an intimate atmosphere of the minimalist space.  For the full list, visit the Asia’s 50 Best Bars web