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Of all the best things to do in Kyoto, one stands out: savouring a traditional kaiseki meal in the legendary Gion district. For the uninitiated, this quintessential Kyoto experience may seem daunting. Firstly, kaiseki dining, the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine for which Kyoto is renowned, comes with its own code of formality. When coupled with language barriers, the experience could become more intimidating than enjoyable.
Gion Shizuka aims to change that. Set in a restored heritage machiya (townhouse) on a quiet stone-paved street by the picturesque Shirakawa Canal, the restaurant exudes the classic Gion ambience. More importantly, a host presides over the meal, introducing each dish as it’s served, all in smooth English for foreign guests. The explanations are often peppered with culinary and cultural anecdotes for context, so you’ll be able to fully appreciate the food.
Don’t dismiss this as touristy, though, just because English is involved. Backed by 45 years of experience, head chef Kazumi Sawada presents a refined kaiseki meal informed by the seasons. He began his career at Gion Maruyama, a long-established Kyoto institution with two Michelin stars, then went on to serve as head chef at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Tokyo and several luxury hotels overseas before taking the mantle at Gion Shizuka.
On our visit in winter, we went through a delectable 11-course omakase that showcased the season’s freshest ingredients through a range of Japanese cooking styles in typical kaiseki progression. From a bright sakizuke (appetiser) of steamed yuzu pot filled with abalone and taro in white miso sauce, we moved on to a yakimono (grilled dish) of charcoal-fired unagi with miso-marinated butterbur sprouts, before finishing with a gohan (the finale rice dish) of fragrant claypot rice with Spanish mackerel, salmon roe and Japanese parsley.
With the host’s jovial demeanour and enlightening explanations, the elaborate two-plus-hour meal went by breezily. But what truly stood out for us was the outstanding sake pairing, which felt like an exploration of the many different styles of Japanese rice brew from some of the country’s most coveted boutique breweries.
The ultra-rare Colors Cosmos 2024 sake – produced by Akita-based cult brewery Aramasa Shuzo in just 180 bottles – features a fruity, white wine-like profile that matches beautifully with the Hokkaido deer cutlet sandwich. The éks Edition No. 1 from Fukui’s Kokuryu Shuzo, on the other hand, is so refined and smooth that it complements, rather than overwhelms, chef Sawada’s delicate tilefish soup with turnip and uni. This particular sake, a premium release created in collaboration with chef Koji Koizumi of the three-Michelin-starred Kohaku, is brewed specifically to accompany dashi-based dishes.
Another highlight is the exemplary Grand Cru from Niida Honke in Fukushima. Dating back to 1711, this historical brewery is renowned for its terroir-style natural sake crafted from organic rice using the traditional kimoto method. The resulting sake is surprisingly easy to drink – despite its complex, sherry-like characteristics – making it the perfect accompaniment to the clean-tasting sea bream shabu-shabu.
Our nine-sake flight was inspired and had real personality – credit goes to the sommelier for their deep knowledge and insider access. Just like the restaurant’s evolving kaiseki menu, much of the sake selection also changes monthly to reflect the season and the latest releases. With its relaxed atmosphere and English-friendly service, Gion Shizuka offers not only an accessible introduction to Kyoto’s kaiseki world but also to the elevated art of sake-pairing kaiseki.
Gion Shizuka offers a wide selection of kaiseki courses. Lunch is priced at ¥6,600, or ¥9,900 with sake pairing. Dinner starts at ¥16,500 without drinks, and goes up to the top-tier ¥26,400 with a free-flow pairing of nine premium sake including the prestigious Juyondai. Reservations required for dinner.