Every year on October 22, the otherwise small and peaceful onsen town of Kurama, nestled on the outskirts of Kyoto, is engulfed in one of the region’s most extraordinary festivals. Held to commemorate the relocation of Yuki Shrine from Kyoto to Kurama over a thousand years ago, the spirited Kurama Fire Festival attracts thousands to witness its fiery display of cultural heritage and community spirit.
From dusk to midnight, the narrow streets of Kurama come alive with a series of blazing processions. Bonfires are lit across the town, and hundreds of taimatsu (torches) in various sizes – ranging from handheld to 4-metres-long versions weighing more than 80kg – are paraded through the streets, culminating in a spectacular gathering at the gates of Yuki Shrine.
Here, the torch procession gives way to a more traditional matsuri, but still infused with a fiery dose of machismo that defines the festival. In a powerful display of strength, local men carry down two mikoshi (portable shrines) from the mountain and parade them around the village before the event draws to a close.
The festival feels like something out of a bygone era, and it’s easy to get swept up in the fervour of the night. While that’s very much part of the experience, be sure to take care as you make your way to, through and from the festivities.
The streets are narrow and crowded, and with open flames all around, it pays to be cautious. It’s also worth keeping in mind that while the festival is hugely popular, Kurama is only served by a small two-car train from Kyoto’s Demachiyanagi Station, which is guaranteed to be packed.