When we heard that a genuine biergarten was opening near Guy Môquet metro, all our (sometimes hazy) memories of Berlin came flooding back. It was with eager (though cautious) steps that we made our way to Kiez and set about the taxing job of testing all their beers on draft (Erdinger Kristallweizen, Bitburger, Kölsch and Sankt Thomas, from €5.50 to €6.90 a pint), washed down with our favourite soft German tipple, an apple-flavoured Fritz Limo (€3.50). The food offering pairs perfectly with this line-up: pretzels, a platter of frikandel with a fresh lettuce and cucumber salad, curry wurst, and a frankly unpronounceable nürnberger rostbratwuerste (Nuremberg bratwurst) – all excellent, to the point that you're likely to get distracted by the snacks before you get round to the main dishes.
Having made it thus far, a German friend counselled us to try a Kölschkranz, that is, a tray of 13 Kölsch served in 20cl glasses (€33). This was how those Berlin memories became so hazy – all the more so when, a few games of table football later, the charming owners offered a round of Jägermeister. A fatal error, but an authentic one, which we regretted the next day without it marring our opinion of Kiez, its garden, its food and its beer. All together now, 'Ich bin ein Berliner!'