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Garnier restaurant just across the rue from Paris' Gare Saint-Lazare is a Paris institution with a face lift -- possibly another Paris tradition. Long famous for the freshness of its fish and the slightly tired, touristic decor, Garnier has now had the attention of designer Dominique Honnet who has created an elegant cream, wood and mirrored dining space that reflects the refinement of the menu under Ludovic Schwartz. Some loyal patrons never get beyond the oyster bar or the fresh shellfish buffet, while others reliably order the lobster from the tank or salad with balsamic vinegar and lightly spice d tomato sauce, or the pan-fried Dover sole, and others go off-piste onto the excellent meat menu with herb-crusted rack of lamb. Excellent wines and desserts and sprightly, professional service.