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Review
Many of the same places in Peru get all the praise—Lima for its bustling downtown district and world-class dining scene, Cusco for its ancient ruins, and the Sacred Valley as its home to one of the wonders of the world. But when locals are in need of a beach that’s an actual escape from the city, one with a touch of history behind it, they look to Paracas. And for almost two decades, the go-to getaway has been Hotel Paracas, a Luxury Collection Resort, Paracas.
Hotel Paracas, a Luxury Collection Resort, Paracas exists where the original Hotel Paracas stood, a once equally luxurious getaway that was destroyed by an earthquake in 2007. But as of 2009, an oasis of opulence exists yet again as the hotel sprawls with stellar bungalows, high-class dining experiences and opportunities to explore the surrounding diverse desert.
Have you ever wanted a villa to call your own for a few days? Well, you can certainly have it at the Hotel Paracas, a Luxury Collection Resort, Paracas. Over 120 bungalows exist on the property, with a mix of garden and terrace suites. Cabanas follow the color palette of the sand and sea: with bamboo features behind the king-sized bed, blue chaise lounges and a tan-tiled bathroom with both a tub and a walk-in glass shower. Each and every room gets its own terrace; mine just happened to have one of the best views around, as the oceanfront terrace suite overlooked the gorgeous gardens on the property with the ocean and dunes beyond.
The hotel houses three restaurants, two of which reside in the main building whose interior looks like you're dining under a wide-brimmed hat made of bamboo. Off to the side is La Trattoria, where you can enjoy Italian classics such as pizza and fresh pasta. All-day dining, however, goes to Ballestas Restaurant. Mornings start with a buffet that balances the traditional, tamales and soups, next to an international spread, including a station for eggs and waffles, croissants and, for some reason, barbecue wings. If wellness is more of your thing, there’s a corner dedicated to yogurt, parfaits and oatmeal crowned with bee pollen and dehydrated fruits.
Come nighttime, Ballestas becomes even finer, with a bookable Ancestral Tasting Menu that traces the seafood found around the region. Follow the map/menu to find conchas de abanico (Peruvian scallops) sourced from the waters of Rancherío, prepared with ají limo and a big dollop of squid ink and pulpo (octopus) from El Chucho region, located further south, braised and served over a bed of zarandaja purée, made that much richer with caper butter.
Perhaps my favorite goes to the most casual of the three, Chalana Restaurant, located on the pier at the tip of the property. A seafood shack it may be, the waterfront restaurant is serious about its seaside bounty, dressing Peruvian scallops in rocoto peppers and ponzu sauces, served in cute miniature-sized boats filled with ice, next to ceviches and causa. Oh, and there are plenty of frozen chicha moradas and piscos for drinking.
Speaking of, libations can continue on at Bar Lounge across the way from Chalana Restaurant, best experienced at one of the chairs in view of the fire pit or near one of the many water features inside. But if things are too chilly, winding down at Zarcillo with a smoked negroni is always in the cards.
There are two pools, one for adults and one for kids. The infinity pool that stretches between Ballestas Restaurant and the Zarcillo Bar is the most eye-catching, flanked by reclinable beach chairs and cabanas. But if you’ve come with the family, you can take to the shallower, kid-friendly pool located closer to the beach. That, and it's located right next to the watershed where you can rent kayaks, paddleboards and even catamarans, courtesy of the hotel.
If hydrotherapy is more your speed, you can book an appointment at AQU Spa and spend time at the thermal circuit, complete with hydromassage pools, jacuzzis, and cold plunges.
The hotel is situated at the edge of the Paracas National Reserve, a protected coastal reserve that includes red sandy beaches, wildlife and miles upon miles of sea. For an up-close and personal look at all three, guests can book a Ballestas Islands tour directly through the hotel. The two-hour boat tour starts with a history lesson behind the Candelabro, a prehistoric geoglyph that dates back to 200 BCE. But the real appeal is a ride over to the islands themselves, a collection of rocky islets where sea lions, including a few pups if you’ve arrived around breeding season, penguins and birds come to roost.
But if you'd rather learn more about the seafood here than just plain eating it, guests can book the private Scallop Harvesting Experience. Taking a ride to, quite literally, the smack dab of the ocean, guests can learn about the cultivation process from Luis Vereau of Peru Expressions Producciones S.a, one of the largest importers of scallops to France and Italy. But the best way to learn is to taste, no? Then you'll be in luck, as each tour ends with a scallop tasting, cracked right on the boat, slurped as-is or with a little bit of lime juice.
Address: Paracas S/N, Paracas 11550, Peru
Price per Night: Prices start at $230 per night
Closest Transport Link: Traveling in from Jorge Chávez International Airport, the drive to the property is four hours long. From Capitán FAP Renán Elías Olivera Airport, the drive is 20 minutes away. The property is also accessible by the Cruz de Sur boat/
Book Now: Booking.com
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