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Fresh-made ricotta and mozzarella—and the chance to catch up on East Passyunk Avenue gossip—draw an old-school, year-round crowd to this circa-1940 Italian specialty shop. But, in summer, nothing beats the blast-from-the-past experience of slurping one of 82-year-old Phil Mancuso’s lemon, cherry or chocolate water ices at the bench in front of his shop.