Jenny Stampa

L'été à Paris, c'est plutôt sympa. L'offre en festivals est gigantesque, de nouveaux lieux ouvrent leurs portes et, miracle, il n'y a pour une fois pas grand monde pour vous empêcher d'en profiter. Néanmoins, il se passe également de bien belles choses une fois passé le périph. Parce que plage et farniente ne riment pas uniquement avec mots-croisés et compilation 'Hit Machine 1998', nous avons sélectionné pour vous le prouver les événements musicaux français les plus dynamiques dans l'ordre chronologique, afin de profiter de vos week-ends sans avoir à renier votre vie culturelle. 

Le Paris International Festival of Psychedelic Music, le plus grand rassemblement de cheveux longs, t-shirts tie & dye et pupilles dilatées de France, est de retour pour notre plus grand plaisir les 3, 4 et 5 mars. On se souvient encore, sans efforts, de la belle mais pluvieuse édition de l'an passé, les concerts de Temples, Jacco Gardner et les projections ciné de l'hallucinant Kenneth Anger en marge du festival, rendues possible grâce à la collaboration avec Potemkine. Un élégant troisième opus donc pour le Psyché Fest qui avait pris ses quartiers loin de Paris à la Ferme du Buisson... malheureusement terni par les aléas des pannes de RER. Pour cette quatrième année, c'est donc : retour à Paris avec une prog aux petits oignons mêlant, entre autres, les Dandy Warhols, The KVB, L.A. Witch, Fai Baba, Traams, Mountain Bike ou encore You Stay Strange... Et une carte blanche confiée à l'ensorcelante Tess Parks. Plus qu'un mois pour vous mettre à la page, relire les 'Portes de la Perception', regarder 'Dig!' ou tout simplement rien foutre et acheter vos billets. Quoi ? Paris International Festival Of Psychedelic MusicOù ? Trabendo et CigaleQuand ? Du 3 au 5 mars 2017Combien ? Pass Trabendo 1 jour à 33 €, 2 jours à 59 €. Pass Cigale à 31 € (debout) ou 44 € (assis), en vente ici Voir tous les festivals de l'hiver

Et voilà, c'est reparti pour un tour, octobre est là et annonce le début du festival Pitchfork...  Si jusqu'ici on avait plutôt l'habitude de voir défiler sur scène, à quelques exceptions près, une grosse resucée revival des festivals de l'été, cette année, on est agréablement surpris par le pré-festival, le « Pitchfork Avant-Garde » qui essaimera quelque 42 groupes dans 7 salles de la capitale sur deux jours (mardi 25 et mercredi 26 octobre). Et à première vue, il y a de quoi nourrir les morts de faim que nous sommes, avec pas mal d'inconnus au bataillon. Si l'on en croit les heures passées à écumer les bandcamp et les soundcloud de tout ce petit monde, le choix de LA bonne soirée risque d'être cornélien. On ne saurait que trop vous conseiller de prêter attention à la programmation de ces deux journées qui surpassent presque en qualité ce qui se tramera du côté de la Grande Halle.  Et pour être honnête, nous qui avions un peu enterré l'excitation des débuts, celle du défrichage en ligne de la plateforme musicale Pitchfork, et l'attraction prudente qu'on éprouvait lors de la première édition parisienne, nous avons été agréablement surpris par la programmation de cette « Avant-Garde » 2016.  En ce qui concerne les groupes présents sous la verrière vibrante de la Grande Halle, on trouve beaucoup d'électro (Mount Kimbie, Floating Points, Moderat...), peu de hip-hop (Avelino, Joey Purp) et encore moins de rock... Si quelques noms tels que MIA, Parquet Courts ou Daphni peuvent nou

Rock en Seine a ses fans, Rock en Seine a ses détracteurs, soyons clairs : c'est un festival parisien donc il est plus que normal qu'on aime le détester et qu'on déteste l'aimer. Toujours est-il que la programmation de cette année brasse si large qu'on aurait de quoi se noyer... C'est pourquoi on a décidé d'enfiler notre plus beau maillot de maître-nageur pour vous sauver des flots verts de Saint-Cloud, en vous délivrant les artistes à voir absolument à Rock en Seine 2016, et en trois temps. David Hasselhoff et Pamela Anderson n'ont qu'à bien se tenir ! • Quoi ? Rock en Seine• Où ? Domaine National de Saint-Cloud (92)• Quand ? Du 26 au 28 août 2016 • Combien ? 119 euros le pass 3 jours  

Ah, le mois de juin, l'un des meilleurs de l'année, il fait beau, il commence à faire chaud, tout le monde se fout à poil et exhibe sa peau légèrement blafarde à la face du monde. Juin, c'est aussi le début de la saison des festivals. Et justement, l'un des plus célèbres, c'est le Solidays, créé en 1999 par Solidarité Sida, qui prend ses quartiers d'été chaque année du côté de l'hippodrome de Longchamp. Un festival qui accueille plus d'une centaine de milliers de spectateurs, qui reçoit des grands noms du monde de la musique... et reverse l'intégralité de ses bénéfices à des associations de lutte contre le virus du Sida. Avec une programmation de quelque quatre-vingts groupes, nul doute que vous trouverez une vraie occasion de joindre l'utile à l'agréable en achetant des billets.  Toute la programmation.  Teaser Solidays 2016par solidays

Vous l'avez attendu tout l'été, vous l'avez fantasmé en rafraîchissant votre iPod de rentrée, vous avez (presque) jubilé quand octobre s'est installé, et le voici enfin arrivé, le Pitchfork Music Festival, édition 2015. Sa météo clémente, ses stands où la nourriture et les bières sont bon marché, ses queues devant les toilettes où non, vous ne passerez pas toute votre soirée... On déconne, c'est vrai qu'en une année, on a eu le temps d'oublier tous ces petits désagréments. Mais qu'importe, vous serez là, et vous paierez le prix (fort ?) pour onduler, guincher, pogoter ou slamer au son de vos groupes préférés. Si pour certains junkies du beat et de l'indie, la programmation est hallucinante, toujours aussi pointue avec ses valeurs sûres, ses belles promesses et ses inconnus au bataillon, pour d'autres, ce sera seulement l'occasion de se montrer, voire d'instagramer des groupes dont ils ignoraient jusqu'alors l'existence. Ceux-là sortiront probablement leurs plus belles moustaches/chemises à carreaux/barbes ou leurs plus coachellesques serre-têtes à fleurs en espérant finir dans le lookbook de Glamour. Mais devinez quoi ? Ceux-là, on s'en fout.   Si vous ne connaissez pas grand-chose à la programmation que le Pitchfork vous a concoctée, pas de souci, on va vous aider de manière totalement subjective à ne pas passer à côté des meilleurs concerts de cette fin d'année.   

At the end of rue Crespin du Gast we saw a place blossom with big baskets of rhubarb, chives, strawberries, thyme and a multitude of other plants. Whatever it was, it won't last long (especially in this summer heat) we said to ourselves.  Little did we know the the origin of this green garden was Kristin Frederick, founder of the burger van-turned restaurant Le Camion qui fume. She's put down the burger flipper for this new and dramatically organic address. She doesn't grow everything on this urban vegetable patch but with the tables placed under the trees (as so often in Menilmontant), we could believe that we're in a little village. Kristen welcomes us with a big smile (and her cute Californian twang) and offers us a refreshing lemonade (€3) - the perfect antedote in this sweltering heat. To snack on, we order some veggie dumplings splattered in Sichuan sauce and black vinegar (€6) and a soft boiled egg with an aubergine purée (€5). We're nearly licking the pretty ceramic plates. To follow, lamb and boulgar wheat covered in a mint and lemon jus on a bed of roast potatoes (€15), and seasame soba noodles, kale miso, beef tataki and a vegetable tempura (€14). A quick trip to Marocco and Japon in two dishes. It's good, balanced, rich in flavour... Shame that the portions are so small, we're still a bit hungry. We finish with a glass of wine on our calm terrace and watch the children play. Suffice to say, even with this heatwave, we love Paris all the same.

As soon as the first rays of sunshine hit the ground, Parisians are drawn outside, onto the quais and parc lawns to drink beers and spritzs. Catering to this movement is why more and more ephemeral terraces are opening up across the capital. Adding to this list is Papa Cabane, opening in Bercy park, behind an Ibis hotel. This sprawling 1000m2 terrace, with wooden decking decorated with cushions and deckchairs, is catapulting us into summer. Every Thursday night you get the chance to chill, have a couple of games of pétanque or ping pong. Enjoy a charcuterie board, burgers or tacos (€10 for 3) from one of the foodtrucks while the DJ gets going. And if the house sound doesn't get you in the mood for dancing, you can soak up the last few rays while the sun sets. 

Just behind Place Edith Piaf, you'll find a little corner of paradise, slot between two old glass workshops. Au Fond du Jardin is located as cryptically as it sounds. Behind the glowing light of this pizzeria (a small restaurant with old wooden chairs, and a beaten up stone facade) a treat awaits. The passage at the side leads you to a leafy terrace, with multicolour tables, red brick paving, lavender bushes, climbing wisteria, and strings of lights like a village fête. Hey presto, you're in Provence.  You know this place? Well, maybe but that was before. The team has changed, the waiters are attentive, taking their time to laugh while supporting the trays of generous plates. The mojito is everything that it should be: fresh, balanced, not too expensive (€7). Accompanied with a little mixed planche (€6), not bad - especially for the price, but we would have preferred paying a few more euros for better quality products. Next, a vast choice of classic dishes: meat or fish (of the day), pasta, Niçoise salad...we opt for the pizzas (€14). The Parme and Calzone arrive, bubbling hot on stone plates. These are pizzas that your (non-Italian) mother made. It's simple and good, with a thin crust, sprinkled with origano. The coloured lightbulbs bring a summer charm to the terrace, which when a breeze flutters in, really takes you to the South of France. 

When its not Monday or Tuesday, its legit to go for a couple of cold beers in Belleville. As usual, La Folie terrace is packed and you’re not quite ready to drag yourself to Relais. So it’s natural to lead the charge to the coolest bar in the quarter, Culture Rapide. It has an XXL terrace, away from all the exhaust fumes, nestled in between high facades of graffiti. As it gets later, it does get a little bit chilly on that hill, so head into coloured and popular bar. Pints of stella set you back a mere €4.5 and it's a mixed planche for €10. Neither are memorable but who cares, this bar has a cool unpretentious vibe. It's the kind of spot which produces the next generation of poets. In short, we recommended to get hooked on this bar, and quickly.

Slap bang in the heart of Belleville, La Commune is already bursting with punters clamouring for a taste of their amber rum. The famed team behind Le Syndicat have kept to their winning formula: a clandestine shopfront and a hip-hop soundtrack. Good-looking waiters wearing wildly-patterned trousers bustle around the jungle-like terrace, filled with plants and cosy armchairs. It’s a slight caricature of the ‘bush’ vibe but we get it: goodbye to the Paris drizzle and aloha liquid sun. For about €11 per person, you get your share of a giant silver punch bowl, filled with concoctions like the Tierquar with Marie-Galante rum, Rooibos tea, Martinican rum, lemon juice, elderflower liqueur, champagne, pomace brandy and calavados. It’s tasty, balanced and oh-so-dangerously-drinkable. The Mate mon Métisse (Jamaican pepper, armagnac brandy and fresh coriander) is also delicious. To sate your hunger, there's global-inspired sharing plates such as massive filo pastry cheese cigars (cumin, ricotta, feta and mascarpone) or a melt-in-the-mouth shakshuka. This is the kind of place you’ll want to bring your most fun friends. 

Admittedly, Place de Clichy isn’t the sort of place you stumble on cute bars – but take the small passage on rue Biot and you’ll find a corner of paradise, far from the hustle and bustle of the square. Big bay windows open onto a beautiful courtyard with a fountain. The interior is super cosy, with wicker chairs and plants everywhere; a proper winter garden in the heart of Paris. The Violetta (gin, Saint-Germain liqueur, lemon and violet syrup) brings back childhood memories and the Espresso martini is well-balanced with suitably strong coffee. As for appetisers, everything looks equally mouth-watering; the generous tasting platter includes red lentil humous, beetroot dip, roasted pumpkin with pesto, salmon, cucumber and coriander club sandwiches, confit lamb cigars and pulled pork mini-burgers (€18). This is the kind of peaceful address you’ll want to keep close to your chest.  TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

We headed to Le Grand Bain on a Sunday night, and found behind a steel façade, a party in full swing. We were immediately welcomed into the throng of younger generations. The waiters around the island bar gave us a wave, passed us the menu and let us settle in. It was explained that they were celebrating the end of their first week open. This made sense seeing as the chef had his youngster in one arm and frying pan in the other. Therefore we couldn’t order the delicious little dishes of the menu (from €4-11) prepared by Edward Delling Williams (ex-Au Passage) but we were offered generous sharing plates, puff pastry stuffed with black pudding, beetroot with raspberry, and first class garlic chicken wings! We ordered a glass of Gamay and Gaillac (around € 4.50 the glass) and cheerfully talk with our neighbours. So, we woke up with a hangover but we spent a nice Sunday night in this place, which could easily become an institution. Make sure to try the already-favourite smoked oysters with a glass of dry white. 

When six o’clock rolls around, you are officially free. And what better way to celebrate than by inviting your mates to l'Apéronome near Philippe Auguste metro? It may not be the most beautiful bar in the area, nor the most suited to a rendezvous between lovers. However under the surface of this ordinary-looking joint, is a friendly spot packed with regulars. The waiter welcomes you with a big smile, and soon enough you’ll be blowing him a kiss. The Tigre Bock or draft Brooklyn IPA aren’t half bad – especially in happy hour. There are more than 15 bottled beers on the menu, all of which are Parisian, like Gallia, BapBap and La Parisienne. It’s tricky to choose between a mixed platter, tapas or or little appetisers, so we go for a bit of everything. Shrimp kebabs, a slice of quiche, cheese, salad, charcuterie and green olive tapenade. It’s simple and well put-together. In fact, l'Apéronome feels a bit like someone’s sitting room. And for that reason, we’ll be back soon.

An elegant little pavilion with a bright frontage, retractable doors, a veranda, 71 rue de la Folie Méricourt look more like a lived-in house, than a restaurant. Inside, stone walls and chic minimalism complement the plants dotted about. We sit downstairs for lunch, the bistro part of this gastro ensemble. Underfoot, a window reveals a well-stocked cellar. As part of the €25 three-course set menu, we get gougères (savoury choux pastry balls) on a camembert emulsion, then mushroom fricassée and a slow-cooked egg, perfectly accompanied by a glass of saumur (€7). Chanterelle, pleurotus, trumpet and shiitake mushrooms serve as a garnish for this slightly salty broth, but our palate is soothed by the creaminess of the egg. Then a hare stew with liver, pine nuts and parsley. Being game, the hare is extrememly rich, only increased by the liver sauce. It’s a shame the bland pasta couldn’t balance out those flavours. The final course brings us back to the botanical side of things: berry jelly, sprinkled with verveine and sesame financiers, a perfectly masterful dessert. Botanique is surprising; expect to embark on a new gastronomical experience whenever you stop by for lunch. TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

Sandwiched between the Sorbonne and Ecole Normal Supérieure on rue Pot-de-Fer, is Brewberry, or rather Brewberries, because they come as a pair. On one side, is 300 different types of bottled beer for buying and tasting and on the other, around twenty beers on draft. We can’t help but gasp at the prices in this sparsely decorated cellar. The 250ml measures are the average price of a half, the halves are the average price of a pint and the pints…well, you get the idea. For example, an Outta Kilter (from an artisanal brewery in Ohio), costs €29.60. Per pint. But you come here to sample beer, not sink litres of the stuff. Our pint of liquid gold (a Szech ‘n Brett – €10.30 for a half) is deliciously acid-noted goes nicely with a mixed platter (€17), including a rather lovely Guinness cheddar. We leave Brewberry with a painfully slender wallet, but knowledge is priceless. Right? TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

With a big covered terrace that opens during the summer, a distinctly brocante decor (imagine pedal-less bicycles hanging from the ceiling), Chez Gudule is a slice of scruffy old-style Paris. €4 pints are served between 6 and 8pm, with mixed platters to soak up the alcohol. Despite the good quality ingredients, they’re a little scant for €13. We order shots to finish off the evening, however a €4.50 swig of caramel vodka seems a little steep. That being said, Chez Gudule does a great job of livening up the neighbourhood, and we’d be back for that alone. TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

Pépère Jean must have been sick of Mémère Paulette stealing all the limelight with her wine-based restaurant, so they decided to open a watering hole nearby on rue Lelong in the 2nd arrondissement. On the wall hangs old frames, with a shelf filled with pastis glasses, branded Suze carafes and so on. Outdated it might be, but with this sort of bric-a-brac, you can't help but feel safe and cosy. We munch on a huge plate of coppa di Parma ham (€6) and plaited buffalo mozzarella (€8), then cave and get the Neufchâtel-en-Bray heart-shaped cheese (€8), washed down with the 2013 Pinot Noir sensas and 2014 Côtes-du-Rhône (€5 by the glass). After a heated table football match, we indulge in a game of play ‘Guess Who?’ It’s like Christmas, come early.