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Restaurants, Vegetarian Saint-Ambroise
4 out of 5 stars
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Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Kristin Frederick, the burger queen of Le camion qui fume, goes green!

At the end of rue Crespin du Gast we saw a place blossom with big baskets of rhubarb, chives, strawberries, thyme and a multitude of other plants. Whatever it was, it won't last long (especially in this summer heat) we said to ourselves. 

Little did we know the the origin of this green garden was Kristin Frederick, founder of the burger van-turned restaurant Le Camion qui fume. She's put down the burger flipper for this new and dramatically organic address. She doesn't grow everything on this urban vegetable patch but with the tables placed under the trees (as so often in Menilmontant), we could believe that we're in a little village.

Kristen welcomes us with a big smile (and her cute Californian twang) and offers us a refreshing lemonade (€3) - the perfect antedote in this sweltering heat. To snack on, we order some veggie dumplings splattered in Sichuan sauce and black vinegar (€6) and a soft boiled egg with an aubergine purée (€5). We're nearly licking the pretty ceramic plates. To follow, lamb and boulgar wheat covered in a mint and lemon jus on a bed of roast potatoes (€15), and seasame soba noodles, kale miso, beef tataki and a vegetable tempura (€14). A quick trip to Marocco and Japon in two dishes. It's good, balanced, rich in flavour... Shame that the portions are so small, we're still a bit hungry.

We finish with a glass of wine on our calm terrace and watch the children play. Suffice to say, even with this heatwave, we love Paris all the same.

By: Jenny Stampa



Address: 22 rue Crespin du Gast

Transport: Metro: Menilmontant
Price: Dishes between €14-15
Opening hours: Tues-Sat, midday-2.30pm & 7pm-10pm. Closed Sun&Mon
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