Jinx

Someone's got to say it: Mumbai's an expensive city. Mumbai, incidentally, also happens to be a city of drinkers. And that goes hand in hand sometimes. The city’s home to some of the best upscale bars that have placed highly on award lists in India and even Asia, but sometimes, you just want to get a drink without burning a hole in your pocket. So where do true-blue Mumbaikars go when they really just want to drink? Dive bars, of course. Spots that have stood the test of time not only because of cheap drinks, but also thanks to their radical refusal to cave to glossy decor and fancy avant-garde menus. You probably won't find cocktails here, but cheap beer, simple spirits, and a general sense of community-driven hilarity fight the good fight on weekday and weekend nights alike.  This is why they're not a haven for just locals.They’re places where you can make buddies with just about anybody. You can even throw up in the loo with zero judgement. In the guide below, we’ve sorted the good from the bad. You and your wallet are in safe hands.

Mumbai's a hamster wheel on high speed – and often, it feels like you've got to match her stride or get off and go home! It's the city that never sleeps, never pauses; everyone's always in a rush, all the time. Mumbai's also not the greenest urban city in India, making for less opportunities to slow down, but art galleries, it turns out, rise to the occasion instead, offering a rare moment of respite. They're a haven for art lovers, of course, but they're also supremely accessible. They're a chance to look at Mumbai through the lens of her trysts with contemporary artists, but they're also a chance to wander through quiet spaces uninterrupted, or strike up a conversation where otherwise, you'd have to rely on a dating app.  While its roots stretch back to the 1850s, back when she was still called Bombay, the art scene has since flowered into a tree laden with low-hanging fruit. There are art galleries older than your ma, and galleries that seem to have sprung up overnight – and they've all got something for everyone. Here are seven of the best. I promise they'll change how you view the city – even just a little bit.

Few things in life are as great a unifier as live music. One moment, you're standing next to a complete stranger, awkwardly waiting for the set to roll out. The next moment, you're headbanging in sync with them to a godly guitar riff. By the end of the night, you're probably a) drunk and b) have made a new friend.The live music scene in Mumbai is, admirably, pretty diverse. If going nuts in a mosh pit isn't your idea of a good time, acoustic gigs can be the chatty friend that introduces you to other introverts. Hindustani jugalbandis are often doorways to great conversation about the dying art of Indian classical music, and jazz nights almost always end up doing for you what the latest dating app failed miserably at.  So whether you fancy discovering a new singer flying under the radar, a heated debate on Kishore Kumar versus Mohammed Rafi, or watching a bragging competition play out on stage between a drummer and saxophonist, Mumbai's got it all. In this guide, I've put together the greatest venues in the city that host the best gigs and, mercifully, back up the whole show with world-class sound systems. 

The Crasto bungalow in Girgaon's Khotachiwadi has seen its fair share of goings-on. It's housed a printing press, and in a minor blip, even functioned as a gym. Today, it's the proud home for 47-A, a gallery exclusively dedicated to design. Inside, you'll find regular exhibitions that spotlight furniture, ceramics, textiles, and functional design, with each exploring themes like craft, sustainability, and material experimentation.  The nature of the work displayed is such that it invites viewers to spend time observing and reflecting on the care taken in curation – and that's helped along by the bungalow's spacious layout and vast availability of natural light. The village of Khotachiwadi itself is an interesting choice of location – it's a heritage village dating back to the 1800s, and it still contains some 30, fairly well preserved Portuguese colonial-influenced bungalows. This gallery's appropriately named 47-A, keeping in line with the numbering system the other bungalows in the area observe. Over time, it's become an intrinsic part of the village's community, and participates wholeheartedly in keeping its heritage alive.  The gallery came out of a collaboration between Chatterjee & Lal, an art gallery, and Baro Market, an online store that curates art, craft, and designer ware. Together, they created a mishmash of what they each do best – and because of that, 47-A's the only gallery in Mumbai that pays such exquisite attention to detail when it comes to design, material

Strangers House Gallery, oddly enough, feels kind of like visiting your grandma's house. There isn't a crevice here untouched by some niche historic episode, yet it's sprinkled liberally with contemporary trinkets that represent, in a way, the endless movement of time. All the exhibits here are lit by trusty old fluorescent lights, liberated from pesky security ropes (thank god), and carry the weight of resistance and solidarity that finds its roots in social movements, like Ambedkarite ideology and black consciousness.  Much of the gallery’s curatorial themes pay homage to the history of the building it’s housed in: Clark House, which, between 1940 and 1962, served as the Strangers Guest House – a long-term rental for people from all over the world. In 1955, Ram Bahadur Thakur & Co. launched their international shipping business from here; their trade connections, spanning the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Japan, made Clark House a node for cultural engagement.  Later, commemorations like the Lidice Memorial Day, honouring a Czechoslovak village massacred by the Nazis, led Indian artists like K.K. Hebbar and Chintamoni Kar to donate their pieces too, contributing to a vast, historic collection that linked Bombay to a global artistic solidarity. That international history's very much a part of the gallery today. It still functions as a hub that bridges history, art, and political discourse – there's art here from across the Indian subcontinent, Latin America, as well as Afr

The original NGMA was inaugurated in 1954 in Delhi; the Mumbai arm, at the Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall in Kala Ghoda – Mumbai's art district – opened to the public in 1996.  One of the largest in Mumbai, the gallery houses a vast, varied curations across five floors. It's best known for housing some of the best works by the Indian greats – Raja Ravi Varma, Rabindranath Tagore, Amrita Sher-Gil and Jamini Roy – as well as contemporary figures like M.F. Husain, Anjolie Ela Menon, and Krishen Khanna. They've also hosted several highly-regarded international collections, such as the The Enduring Image, Treasures from the British Museum in 1998, which coincided with the 50th anniversary of India's independence; Picasso: Metamorphoses 1900-72; Italian Art 1950-70 Masterpieces from the Farnesina Collection in 2005; and Stefan Norblin (1892-52) A Master of Many Arts in 2011. Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall itself boasts an impressive legacy; designed by a Scottish architect, it was once the city’s go-to venue for concerts, political gatherings, and public meetings. Its walls have echoed with speeches by Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru, and with the music of the Bombay Symphony Orchestra. It was restored and transformed into the NGMA as we know it today following the efforts of Indian sculptor Piloo Pochkhanawala and gallerist Kekoo Gandhy. Time Out Tip: If you aren’t a fan of depositing your belongings in a locker, travel light, because bags and personal items aren’t allowed

Bonobo's been around since 2008, and the reason it even exists is because the founders were fed up with Mumbai's weird rules on formal dress codes and the lack of good, chilled out spots to hang out at. And so they built their own rebellion – Bonobo, a relaxed bar that also treats music like a religion (and with them, Mumbai eased up, too). The first thing you'll notice about Bonobo is the jungle-chic aesthetic that they've got going on atop the roof. It's very subtle in some ways – dim lighting, lush greenery – but wacky in others – mushroom-shaped umbrellas? – and it ties together in a way that puts you immediately at ease and snaps you out of the city's chaos.  Here's the real kicker: the food and drinks are way better than they necessarily need to be. That's an odd thing to say, but for a bar that's known for live music, you wouldn't typically come expecting top-notch nosh. But Bonobo excels at stuff beyond just snack plates. They serve great continental food – the Spicy Burnt Garlic Pizza's a must – and their cocktails are similarly well-crafted, with infusions ranging from wasabi to curry leaves. It's fuelled by the kind of inventive spirit that's kept the place relevant for nearly two decades.  Bonobo runs a tight ship when it comes to the music schedule, so plan a visit around your preferred genre. On Wednesdays, the theme's Live is Everything (mainly jazz and live music). This is their essential, free-entry live music night, typically starting around 10.30pm. It’s wh

The Royal Opera House is unlike any other venue in Mumbai, or even in India. Built in 1911 and inaugurated by King George V, the hall served as the city’s cultural heart and soul, until it tragically shut down in the 90s because of a lack of clientele. But in 2016, the hall reopened following extensive restoration, and man, did they revive it to its former glory.When you come to the Opera House, you’re paying for the performance and the place. Normally, that’d come with a bit of a gimmicky feel, but here, it feels totally justified. The hall features the best elements of European Baroque architecture and old-school Indian detailing, so what you see is loads of Italian marble, massive Corinthian columns, and very sparkly crystal chandeliers (some were even donated by the Sassoon family from their very own mansion, which served as a community for the Baghdadi-Jewish community). The auditorium itself is opulent, featuring plush seating, royal boxes, and a ceiling shaped like a gramophone horn, paying homage to the great acoustics.  Today, the hall’s calendar’s jam packed with variety – it hosts classic Marathi and English plays, candlelit concerts by greats, unique storytelling events, comedy specials, and other kinds of live music gigs. If you’re coming, remember to dress up. It’s not the sort of place you’d want to be caught looking shabby at. 

antiSOCIAL's the effortlessly cool friend (who would balk at the word 'cool', even) who already knows about the best music way before everyone else catches on. If there's a gig worth seeing in Mumbai, nine out of ten times, it's happening here.Located in Lower Parel's Mathuradas Mill Compound, the space embraces the unfinished warehouse aesthetic, with exposed concrete and ducts. No velvet ropes or glitz here at all. And don't get me wrong, it's not the artfully-assembled sort of grunge chic – it really is grungey, because the focus is meant to be the music. But look up and you'll see a nice touch – a disco ball hanging overhead, in a cheeky nod to to dance floors past.  The music schedule is pure gold, of course, and it cycles through everything that's both popular and niche. From intense, floor-shaking techno nights to heavy electronic DJ sets, to even phenomenal live rock and funk bands, antiSOCIAL guarantees an electric night out. In short, it’s an essential stop for music discovery and a critical node in Mumbai’s music scene, and it's serious stuff – even the layout features bleacher-style seating as well as standing zones, ensuring maximum capacity while redirecting everybody’s attention to the stage.When it comes to the food and drink, you are, again, in the hands of pros. The killer grub and inventive cocktails are expertly handled by the Social chain, so you know everything's going to be high-quality and legit.  Be sure to peek into the smoking area even if you don't

You haven’t truly arrived in Bandra until you’ve fought your way, screaming, to the very centre of Toto’s and stood, breathless, beneath that suspended Volkswagen Beetle. Toto’s is a shrine. It’s a dive bar for the ages. It’s a place where people voluntarily brave the queue outside to discard the city’s pretense at the door and shed a week’s tension. It’s grunge perfection.  The entire bar’s an ode to auto-shop chaos. Walls are decorated with license plates, engine tools cling to the shelves, and staff present themselves in mechanic overalls. It’s a cramped, wildly original space, where music’s got a spot front and centre in the form of high-voltage, nostalgic currents of classic rock and alt-anthems. The unchanging soundtrack forms the core of Toto’s. It’s what you expect when you walk in, and expecting reliability in a city like Mumbai’s a gift sent from God.  Toto’s main source of credibility comes in the form of cheap beer – lots of it. The draught flows freely and quickly, fuelling the high energy inside. The focus is the value-for-money alcohol alone, so the food menu’s designed to act as an accompaniment to the bar menu. The Paneer Chilli’s served steaming hot, coated in a thick, savory sauce that hits you with heat and crunch. If you’re after a meaty snack, the Chicken Wontons is a plateful of crispy pockets loaded with tender filling. And for a deep, satisfying Mumbai classic, try the Mutton or Chicken Kheema Pav – rich spicy minced meat served with soft, buttered bu

Fancy a drunken sway to Bollywood hits and delectable munchies for company? Sunlight’s the place to be. Great music, great food, and greatly priced booze. All you need on a weekend (or weekday) night. Since the 1930s, the restaurant’s been a hub for college students and budget diners across the city; we’re edging dangerously close to 2030, and none of that’s changed. We’re pretty sure it ain’t changing soon.  The Chicken Crispy and Chicken Lollipop have diners and drinkers by the collar. The former’s spice-soaked and complemented by dry ramen stirred in the same flavours, while the latter’s guaranteed to have you gnawing to the bone. Together, they’re a glorious mess you can only properly embrace three drinks down.  I’m not going to say that the jukebox is Sunlight’s main draw. For lots, it isn’t, but for some, it really is. It’s probably older than most of the restaurant’s diners, and something about it really brings the house down. For ₹20 a song, you can ask the staff to play whatever your heart desires, as long as it’s either classic Bollywood or an English hit. Then the true chaos begins. Kishore Kumar blasting out and suddenly swivelling dangerously to ABBA’s best hits. And the crowd goes wild. The place draws a wild mix of corporate veterans who can afford bigger bills but love Sunlight all the same, and college kids running on student budgets. People swear by their bimonthly visits, often meticulously planned out, with a commute involving switching over multiple local

‘Order anything, man, you won’t be disappointed,’ is a common, albeit drunken, statement uttered by diners at Yacht, who seem to be in some inexplicable and undeclared competition to outdrink each other before they’re kicked out. And lo and behold – that’s Yacht for you. An Irani café that planted its roots in 1960s Mumbai, now grown into a resplendent rendezvous point for merriment and shit-faced memories. Make no mistake – Yacht’s a restaurant, yes, but it’s mainly a dive bar. And in true dive bar fashion, it serves cheap booze and comfort food that pairs perfectly with a bitter lager or scotch. Asking for recommendations here feels a little like forcing a Bollywood nut to pick their favourite Shah Rukh Khan movie, so we’ll spare you the bamboozlement and tell you that the Chilli Chicken is your best bet, along with the unusual combination of chakli (a crispy snack made primarily from rice flour and gram flour) with Schezwan chutney. The Chilli Chicken’s served steaming hot, and the plate’s always full to the brim. The chicken melts under a fork and packs a massive punch on your tastebuds. The stir-fried capsicum and onions aren’t disgustingly soggy or irritatingly crisp, and sweet soy sauce rescues your burning tongue (so does the whiskey on the rocks you’ve doubtless ordered). The chakli-chutney serves the cat a delight. It’s a dangerous means to fill your tummy before ordering a proper meal. Totally addictive. You’re a lucky bug if you score a table all to yourself at Ya