Kasia Green

Thailand’s craft chocolate industry has exploded in recent years, and Chiang Mai is taking the lead. Long celebrated for its artisanal food and drink – from premium coffee to farm-to-table cuisine and local craft beer – the city has always been quick to embrace new trends that help local farmers make the most of their crops. Enter cacao: an economically and ecologically sustainable alternative that thrives in Thailand’s climate. Not only does it fetch high prices once crafted into artisanal chocolate, it grows well organically in shaded, diverse environments and even helps improve soil health. A sweet deal all round. As more farmers chase chocolate-flavoured opportunities, Chiang Mai has cemented itself on the sweet-tooth trail. Or perhaps it’s the other way around – maybe it’s Chiang Mai that put cacao on the Thai map.Either way, as someone who grew up in a chocolate factory, I couldn’t resist visiting the city’s leading and lesser-known craft chocolatiers to taste what they’ve been cooking up. And after much sampling (in the name of research, of course), here are the stories of our favourite chocolate shops in the north.  

What it is: If you drive outside Chiang Mai into the cool, fragrant forests of Hang Dong district, you’ll find a magical cacao farm tucked away from the crowds. Farmer Bee, a lifelong chocolate lover, discovered that cacao could thrive organically here years ago, and has since begun cultivating it sans pesticides, herbicides and chemicals. Today, he runs a whole farm and his chocolate cafe, while also partnering with five local farmers. Why we love it: The whole place radiates Thai countryside, small-business charm. Bee produces cacao powder, nibs, mass and fresh cacao drinks straight from the farm. His hot chocolate has even earned enthusiastic praise from a Swiss chocolatier in the form of a glowing Google review – who can argue with that?  Time Out tip:  Pack a book, journal or your laptop and spend a day at his place sipping various strengths of cocoa far away from the city.

What it is: KanVela is a craft chocolate operation featuring a range of Thai confections, chocolate bars and cacao drinks – much of their cacao is sourced from farms around Chiang Mai. Why we love it: KanVela stands out because it’s not just about making chocolate; it’s about telling a Thai story through its many products. The founder, Top, used to work in finance but after seeking something that would enable him to spend more time with his family, he ended up becoming one of the first players in the region to start growing cacao and making chocolate.  Top’s goals are to elevate the entire craft chocolate industry in Thailand by sharing his knowledge, and to share Thai flavours with the world. To that end, KanVela’s products include unique local flavors like Thai tea and crispy roti, mango sticky rice, coconut pandan and more. Their chocolates have also won multiple awards. Time Out tip:  Try the hot chocolate of Klong Loi origin. It’s rich, dark and to die for! 

What it is: Audiva is a craft chocolate brand founded by pharmacist Nick, who blends his knowledge in pharmacy and food science with cacao innovation. The brand partners with farmers from 13 districts in Chiang Mai to produce chocolate that highlights the unique flavours of each location. They were also among the first to tap into Thailand’s potential as a cacao hotspot.  Why we love it:Audiva’s approach is all about ‘food as medicine.’ After noticing a sharp uptick in sales of anxiety medications at his pharmacy and becoming aware of chocolate’s anti-anxiety benefits, Nick created a chocolate-based solution: 3g cubes made of 100 percent dark chocolate infused with vitamins, lemon balm and chamomile extract. These all are believed to help combat anxiety, making for a sweet, more approachable alternative for the casually anxious.  Their chocolate also tells a local story. For example, Saraphi district’s cacao carries floral, fruity notes, while Mae Chaem’s has a nuttier profile, as factors like soil composition, altitude and even the local yeast in a particular site all influence flavour. Try them all to find your favourite! Time Out tip: Try the hot chocolate at Audiva’s cafe in Kad Farang Village. Rich, complex and uniquely earthy.

What it is:Skugga grows their cacao and crafts their chocolate all in one place, and they share the process with visitors to their farm just outside of Chiang Mai in Mae On, where they host farm tours and chocolate lab workshops.  Why we love it: At Skugga Estate, chocolate is a sensory experience, not just a treat. According to their team, the real chocolate they produce has depth and complexity just like a fine wine. As this concept is still new in Thailand, Skugga has made it a part of their mission to introduce consumers to the nuances of chocolate-tasting. Customer favourites include dark chocolate bars, rosemary and tomato dark chocolate with lime, and ginger and salt white chocolate. But added flavours aside, Skugga intends for each bite to carry the story of where it originated. Their hope is that people taste not only the richness of the chocolate, but also the creativity and care that goes into the whole process.  Time Out tip:  Visit Skugga Estate on November 5 for Yi Peng to combine your cacao and chocolate experience with a festive dinner, wine pairings, performances and lantern release under the full moon. 

What it is: Siamaya Chocolate is one of Chiang Mai’s most well-known, well-established and well-reputed chocolate businesses. Founder and CEO Neil Ransom was inspired to create Siamaya after experiencing craft chocolate in other countries that highlighted the unique flavours of their origins, and he wanted to create the same opportunity for Thailand. Using local cacao – much of it from Chiang Mai and Lampang – Siamaya is redefining what Thai chocolate can be. Why we love it:  Siamaya does a truly outstanding job of making Thai flavours shine. Some of their most unique local offerings are their khao soi, tom yum and chilli-coffee chocolate bars – great for gifts. However, it’s the durian chocolate that really stands out. It’s so good, we’re convinced even the most stubborn durian haters among us will enjoy it.  And while Siamaya’s bars are indeed delicious, their extended product line of other chocolate-related products was most impressive. The cacao hot sauce was hands-down our favourite offering – its tangy bite, subtle saltiness and deep cacao richness makes it almost drinkable. Time Out tip:  Check out a workshop or tasting at Siamaya's factory store on Wua Lai road. You can see, and even participate in, the process of chocolate being made firsthand. 

What it is:Chocolate Culture Club is the brainchild of MK, a coffee and chocolate producer and fermentation expert. His philosophy is that chocolate doesn’t need fruit, coffee, chilli or any other additions to be deeply flavourful. Instead, he focuses on the natural depth and variety of flavors that emerge from the fermentation process. Why we love it:When we sampled the hot chocolate, its complexity and rich, robust aftertaste lingered pleasantly on the tongue for what felt like an age. The secret? Fermentation. Cacao fermentation is a delicate process. Change just one variable – temperature, humidity or fermentation time, for example – and you’ll end up with a completely different product. Applying his fermentation knowledge to cacao, MK produces chocolate that’s naturally full of flavors without adding anything.  However, this complex process does mean Chocolate Culture Club’s products aren't cheap. They’re also committed to paying farmers a fair wage. So, when you savour their products, you’re not only tasting the depth of careful fermentation, you’re also supporting the farmers and communities behind every bean. Time Out tip: If you get a chance, try their raw chocolate. It’s tasty and packed full of nutritional value. Plus, chocolate’s natural mood-boosting properties are maximised in its raw form, apparently.