Lucie Grace

Chiang Mai has long worn the crown as Thailand’s unofficial vegan capital – and after living (and eating) here for the past few years, I can confirm the title isn’t just hyperbole.   When I first moved north in 2021 as a dairy-free vegetarian, I genuinely couldn’t believe my luck. What started as relief quickly turned into curiosity, and while researching a piece for a UK newspaper, I found myself digging into the city’s plant-based roots.   Aside from the ‘jay’ vegan eateries clustered around the city’s bigger temples – shout-out to Ming Kwan, Suan Dok’s long-running vegan favourite now relocated to Moon Muang Soi 6 – fully fledged plant-based restaurants were once a rarity. Rewind all the way back to 1982 and you’ll find Chiang Mai’s first, Aum Vegetarian, one of Chiang Mai’s original meat-free pioneers. Back then, the scene here already felt generous – especially when every other tofu dish still came with minced pork. But since those early days it's snowballed, with almost 400 restaurants now listed with vegan options on Happy Cow, every travelling vegan’s go-to restaurant resource, aside from Time Out that is.  So, in the interest of research (and with the loosest trousers I own), I hit the streets again to track down the very best in town. Some are new and some stalwart, but all are absolutely delicious.   Check out Chiang Mai’s best farm-to-table restaurants Keep up the health fix with a visit to Chiang Mai’s best yoga studios

Where is it? Doi Inthanon National Park, about two hours southwest of Chiang Mai, is one of northern Thailand’s most famous destinations as it’s home to the country’s highest mountain, Doi Inthanon.  Why we love it: This park at Thailand’s highest altitude is a national treasure and on the bucket list of travellers both local and visiting for a reason. It’s chilly up in Doi Inthanon so pack your fleece and waterproofs (we really mean it), pull those hiking boots on and get exploring through the cloud forests, around the waterfalls and up and around the scenic footpaths. The summit of Doi Inthanon even gets frosty in the winter, which in itself is a huge draw for locals keen to see ‘snow’ for the first time in their lives. As is a visit to the iconic twin pagodas King Inthawichayanon Memorial Pagoda and Queen Sirikit Memorial Pagoda, two shiny conical beacons that sit on a ridge with crazy panoramic views of the valleys below. Loop round to Wachirathan Waterfall and Mae Ya Waterfall,  the powerful cascades in the depths of Inthanon’s lush forest.  Time Out tip: The park’s most famous hike, the Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail, requires a local guide (usually a Karen hill tribe guide assigned at the trail entrance). The hike takes about three hours and meanders along mossy trails and a vast mountain ridge with incredible views – undoubtedly the best trekking experience in the park. 

Where is it? Chiang Dao (or City of Stars) is one of our furthest recommendations, so it really deserves a few days to get it all in. If time is short, leaving at day break and heading home at dusk is absolutely doable. Why we love it: The list of reasons to love Chiang Dao is long. Hiking around Doi Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary, home to Thailand’s third highest mountain Doi Luang Chiang Dao is a dopamine filled day and a great shout for twitchers too – the migrating birds passing through never disappoint, although the convoluted booking process might. The two incredible cave temples have seen pilgrims coming to this palpably spiritual region for generations. The first and most popular, Chiang Dao Cave, is a vast cave network filled with sacred Buddha statues – you can only enter with a guide lest you get lost.. The other, more serene Wat Tham Pha Plong, is perched on the steep mountainside 500 steps up through the forest. Your efforts are encouraged along the path by inspiring meditation quotes before you reach the cave temple at the top. It’s Chiang Dao Hot Springs that keep us going back time and again though, sitting in the hot vats of water before cooling off in the babbling brook they’re built beside is one of the most gloriously life affirming days out – particularly if you’re smart about timing and catch them on a quiet weekday. Oh and they’re free to use. Heaven. But, if you want an easy breezy day that involves zero climbing, head to the recently opened Elements Sp

Where is it? Heading southeast out of the city towards San Kampaeng, it’s just 45 minutes to Mae On, another rural little town surrounded by fields, coffee and cocoa plantations and a mountain that’s popular with rock climbers.  Why we love it: If rock climbing is your thing – this is the spot. Within said rock, tucked into the mountainside,  – a humbling 187 steps up – is popular devotional site Wat Tham Muang On, a cave temple that’s a must visit. After ascending the staircase through the forest, the cool limestone cave filled with Buddha statues and stalactites is an extremely peaceful and slightly mysterious space to meditate or make your offerings. The views are well worth the climb too. Mae On is also the home of the confusingly named San Kamphaeng Hot Springs (it’s on the border of the two districts really). This rather large hot spring park has steaming geysers and several mineral water pools. Soak your feet in the public foot baths, book a private bath or relax in the bigger, public swimming style pools fed by the hot springs. There are also shady picnic areas and little streams where locals love to chill out for the afternoon. If you like your soaks a little fancier, Mae On’s Sense Onsen is happy to provide private piping hot baths, ready and waiting before or after you indulge in the spa’s lengthy massage menu. Time Out tip: Our faves at Skugga Estate, a classy restaurant and cafe situation, grow their own coffee and cocoa on site, as well as a sizable, albeit stil

Where is it? Just north of Mae Rim and south of Chiang Dao, located about an hour north of Chiang Mai, you’ll find the extremely rural district of Mae Taeng. Framed by hills and with a river running through it, it’s a gorge destination to head to. Why we love it: A day trip here can be as zen or as high adrenaline as you decide to make it. It’s the top spot for white water rafting in the region, as from July to October the Mae Taeng River is full (thanks to rainy season), although somewhat unwieldy. Siam River Adventures are your guys to go to if the white knuckled ride on a dinghy calls you. The rest of the year it’s a bamboo raft situation, less scary, unless you fall off. If chilled escapes are more your vibe head to the underrated Wat Den Sali Si Mueang Kaen – a colorful hilltop temple filled with ornate Lanna-style buildings, giant deity statues and great viewpoints over the surrounding valley. After the temple, head further into the hills to Raksa Tea Garden, where you can pick your own leaves from the plantation’s rows of tea plants, then watch a local expert turn those green leaves into green tea. Geology nerds (or hot spring nerds like us) might enjoy swinging by Pong Dueat Geyser – it’s not Iceland but it’s impressive – and round off the day by stopping in the ever so kitschy cafe, Dantewada Land of Angels Waterfall Park on the way home. Time Out tip: Hikers note, you don’t need a guide to enjoy the riverside trails in Mae Taeng but longer jungle treks that pass thr

Where is it? The closest of our favourite spots, Mae Rim is a short drive north of the old city and packed with things to do – from lazing by a man made lake to nursing a locally-sourced coffee in the rice fields. Why we love it: There’s nothing like a bracing dip in Huai Tueng Thao Reservoir, but we’re also fond of the zany herd of huge straw animals built by local artisans and villagers from bamboo and rice straw – a handy byproduct of Mae Rim’s rice farming. In visiting the slightly bonkers, giant sculptures that include buffalo, gorillas, elephants and dinosaurs (yes the lesser spotted Thai dinosaurs) and posing for those insta pics, we are supporting farmers and small businesses – particularly if you get your luncheon snacks from the little hut diners around the lake. If you don’t fancy a dip in the reservoir, perhaps Mae Sa Waterfall is more for you. It’s pretty magnificent and potentially quiet if you catch it on a weekday, the falls flowing strongest during rainy season or soon after. Nature loving to a tee, Akha Ama Living Factory is a cafe and roasting space, ideal for a locally grown coffee that you can chug in their peaceful rice fields and garden. Time Out tip: If reconnecting with nature looks like a smidge of zoology for you, swing by Siam Insect Zoo; it’s honestly the best way to learn to be at one with the local arthropods before you meet them unexpectedly in your homes or hotels.

Where is it? East of the city centre, the verdant, green Doi Saket district is about 40 minutes drive out of Chiang Mai. It’s a delightfully peaceful area, dotted with small villages and rural scenery, and it doesn’t see swathes of tourists so ideal for a chilled day trip. A prime destination for cyclists too, as the roads there are mostly flat and incredibly scenic. Why we love it: First and foremost, the underrated hot springs here are a steamy wellness haven. Aside from the little private hot springs hotels, the main player, the Doi Saket Hot Spring complex, is home to natural mineral water that emerges from underground springs at very high temperatures. The complex is cheap, well kept and has foot baths (popular with local aunties), mineral pools of different temperatures, and if you want to spend a few hundred baht extra – book yourself a private soaking tub. A couple of hours at the large, landscaped Tweechol Botanical Garden are well spent too; it’s packed with palm trees, cactus collections and tropical plants and their on-site resort turns impromptu day trips into full weekend plans. We’re also fans of a sunset pitstop at hilltop temple Wat Phra That Doi Saket for its excellent viewpoint that overlooks the surrounding valley of farms and villages – pure golden hour bliss.  Time Out tip: Doi Saket is the place to go during Loy Krathong if you want the real local temple experience. A handful of them do lantern releases, but the rotation changes year on year.

Where is it? Just a 45 minutes drive northwest of the old city, past Mae Rim and up, up, up the winding mountain road, Mon Jam (or Moncham) is a cute mountainside village some 2,300m above sea level. A sea of flower and strawberry fields cover the valleys below, and from the top the views are resplendent, no matter which side of the mountain you are looking out from.  Why we love it: Mon Jam worked its way into our hearts and minds as it’s a particularly cool break from the balmy heat of Chiang Mai – the elevation makes the temperatures a fair few degrees lower, and we’re all into that. Ideal for a romantic, less sweaty get away. The sweeping views of the terraced hillsides make our jaws drop every time. It could be said that there’s a few too many glamping spots and geodesic tents built on those hills these days, but to be fair, they’re pretty sympathetic to the landscape and don’t diminish from the wow factor. Make a beeline for Rao Dok Lom Nhao community garden, where tall blooms of purple and pinks surround a viewing platform with a simply sublime view of the rolling mountains beyond. Thrill seekers and big kids (like us) love Pong Yang Jungle Coaster & Zipline, a small theme park that has ‘rollercoasters’ whizzing through the lush forest. Mon Jam is also awash with little cafes and strawberry farms to dive into for refreshments. Time Out tip: If you love a little wellness,  the Japan themed hotel Onsen @ Moncham is home to a cluster of hot pools – and you don’t have to b

Where is it?  Out beyond Saket, Mae Kampong is 50km northeast of central Chiang Mai and one of the north’s most popular picturesque villages. Drive yourself or, for the non-drivers among us, minivans depart Kad Farang four times a day, bookable through 12goAsia. Why we love it: Mae Kampong is Studio Ghibli levels of cute. Little wooden gabelled shops, quaint cafes, balconied shabu restaurants and traditional Thai houses line the one high street, which draws many a visitor in for photo opps. But the beauty of Mae Kampong must be its waterfalls, ravines and hilltop location. The views are a total knock out from the highest climbs of this village but sitting in one of the many river- and waterfall-nestled cafes (Proudproudproud is our fave) is just as impactful. At the furthest end of its thoroughfare hides the almost ethereal, tiny temple Wat Khantha Pruksa. This dinky temple sits on a tiny islet in the middle of the flowing Mae Kampong River, the ideal spot to say your prayers and make your wishes, soundtracked by the river rushing past. Time Out tip: Staying overnight isn’t cheap but it's worthwhile for the early morning peace and quiet. Or leave home at 6am. Your call.

Multi-award winning outfit Good Souls is a Chiang Mai institution at this point. A classy affair with high ceilings and a 1950s feel, their huge offering of vegan versions of Thai food as well as a recently added pizza menu (watch out Rad Rabbit!) cooked in the hand-fired stove outside presents us with only one problem – what on earth to order? There’s also enough provisions for any vegan cheat day, with the chocolate banana pancakes or tofu wrap our favourite. The good souls at Good Souls (see what we did there?) have since opened two other restaurants just minutes away, namely The Reform Cafe and Downtown Vegan Garden, both sharing almost exactly the same menu, minus the pizza.    52 Sinharat Road, Soi 3, Old City. 8am-10pm

Relatively new kids on the block, on the eastern stretch of the moat, Begin comes with lovely views and an even better menu. As the name suggests, it’s a great starting point for any newly initiated vegans. Have a chat with the exceptionally sweet staff about what’s vegan and what’s vegetarian here, as they’re happy to break it down, make recommendations and speak pretty good English. Having opened little over a year ago they’re already being heralded as making the best vegan khao soi in Chiang Mai in all the vegan-friendly Facebook groups, and with prices that are extremely budget-friendly, it’s one to run and not walk to.   183, 1 Moon Muang Road, Old City. 9am-10pm

This sustainability-minded, Italian spot is probably the first place in Chiang Mai – maybe even Thailand – where pizzas come exclusively vegan. With a lengthy menu of toppings and different bases to choose from, five years of practice shows. The pasta and gnocchi are tip top too, all utilising local produce (including Chiang Mai made cashew cheese) to keep the carbon footprint down. The team also supports numerous charitable causes and runs a sweet ‘pay it forward’ scheme so you can donate a meal to someone in need. The new (-ish) brunch menu is the perfect weekend treat too, especially if you’re a bit sick of pumpkin curry and rice.   27, 2 Moon Muang Road, Soi 9, Old City. 8.30am-10pm

Hang Dong locals rejoice – this one’s for you. A classy affair with seitan ‘meat’ versions galore to try, like the ‘bacon’ spaghetti or pad krapao with minced ‘meat’ and an ‘egg’ on top, we love The Vegano Bistro for many reasons. Sure, the idea of fake-meat isn’t every vegan’s cup of chai, but there’s something to be said about having the classics and eating them too. Talking about cake, the biggest draw is their incredible desserts; there’s no better chocolate lava cake in the city, vegan or otherwise. If chocolate isn’t your thing (really?) then try the gluten free carrot cake, complete with soy yoghurt cream. Utterly mouthwatering stuff.    69/1 Nong Kwai, Hang Dong. 10.30am-9pm