Marisa Marchitelli

Chiang Mai may be laid-back by day, but after dark the city reveals a more mysterious side. Tucked behind unmarked doors, winding alleys and quiet staircases are some of the city’s most intriguing watering holes – places where the cocktails are serious, the lights are low and finding the entrance will require a bit of detective work. From speakeasy-style lounges with live jazz to minimalist hideaways in heritage buildings, these hidden bars are where Chiang Mai’s creative energy and nightlife scene quietly thrive. You won’t find big signs or flashing lights – these spots may appear on Google Maps, but good luck finding your way in. If you don’t know the secret, you could be pushing bookshelves or following mysterious red lanterns like moths to a flame. We’ll give you a hint, but it’s the whisper of music down an otherwise empty alley that will be your beacon call.  Once you eventually find your way inside, cocktails laden with the best liquor available to man are to be found – from rare international reserves to our favourite locally distilled spirit, Sonklin, from Choeng Doi Distillery just up the road. With a bit of planning (and some comfortable shoes), it’s entirely possible to turn these tucked-away gems into a weekend-long bar crawl – or even squeeze into one night if you’re feeling brave. Instead, we’d opt for a relaxed weekend of shaken drinks, sultry jazz and mysterious discoveries made by candlelight.

High in the hills of northern Thailand, a quiet, yet unexpected cheese renaissance is taking shape. With a growing interest in cheese, mostly imported from Europe, a new generation of Thai and expat artisans are trying their hand at crafting wheels, wedges and washed rinds right here in Chiang Mai – with results that rival their European counterparts.  Using raw local milk, time-honored techniques and a fearless sense of experimentation, a surprising number of cheesemakers are popping up across the north. Leading the way is Jartisann, a micro-creamery where each cheese is composed with instinct, artistry and a sense of place. While their creativity stands out, makers like DoFann, Dacheeso and Adirak are also redefining the possibilities for Thai cheese – sometimes rustic, sometimes refined, always rooted in place. The revolution may be small, but it’s bold, local and ready to be tasted!

If there’s a single dish that is the icon of Northern Thai cuisine, it’s khao soi – a fragrant, curry-laden bowl of rich coconut broth, silky egg noodles and finished with crispy golden strands of those very same noodles deep fried on top.  Yet, for all its deep ties to Chiang Mai, khao soi is something of an outlier in Lanna cuisine. Unlike most northern Thai dishes, which lean toward herbaceous, smokey and coconut-free flavours, khao soi bursts with over thirty bold spices, creamy stewed meats and curiously Chinese-Muslim and Indian influences. So how did this peculiar dish become the unofficial ambassador of northern Thai fare? Well, it is said to have arrived in Thailand via Yunnanese and Muslim traders on the Silk Road way back in the 13th century. And while Chiang Mai remains the heartland of khao soi, Bangkok has been steadily catching up, with top-tier Chiang Mai transplants popping up across the capital as the love for this food cascades over the country (with one of our featured listings recently winning big at Grab’s 2025 Thumbs Up Award). Here’s a roundup of the ten best places to eat khao soi – from legendary roadside stalls to modern interpretations in both Chiang Mai and the capital. And, for a bit of good measure, we’ve also thrown in a few expert-approved cooking schools where you can master the dish yourself. Let the slurping begin!

Set among the cool hills of Chiang Rai, the aptly named Chiang Rai Cheese brings European-style cheese making to the tropics – without compromise. Founded by a Thai-Danish couple and now owned by Thais, this operation has spent over a decade perfecting long-aged, natural-rind cheeses made from 100 percent raw cow milk sourced from small farms and co-ops in Thailand’s northernmost province. The lineup leans Alpine –think Gruyère-style Chiang Rai reserve that’s nutty and robust; Halloumi, a Greek favorite; and Tomme, a semi-soft, washed-rind cheese. With no preservatives and long aging times, up to a year for some varieties, all of their cheese is crafted in small batches using traditional techniques. The cheese factory is open to the public and you can stop in to buy cheese, but it’s not set up as a shop just yet. You can find their cheeses in select Chiang Mai and Bangkok outlets and restaurants.  Chiang Rai Cheese. Cheeses from B180. Available at Vivin Grocery and Bolan (Bangkok), as well as Sloane’s outlets and online.

Adirak Pizza isn’t just about wood-fired pizzas – it’s a full-on celebration of house-made cheese and smoked meats crafted by chef-owner Trirat Roongsavade, who has helmed the kitchen for over a decade. After a recent trip to Italy’s culinary capitals, Milan and Rome, Trirat doubled-down on perfecting their mozzarella, the cornerstone of their cheese program. Using top-quality raw cow milk sourced from local Chiang Mai farms combined with traditional Italian rennet, their mozzarella follows a six-hour traditional Italian process, delivering fresh, creamy texture to every pizza, every day. Burrata, ricotta and stracciatella are also part of the lineup, alongside house-made smoked ham, bacon and pesto. As they’re best known for their pizzas, most people don’t realise you can order their fresh cheeses and smoked meats as they are, available by day before pre-order and can be picked up at any Adirak Pizza. Meanwhile, their signature soft, chewy pizza dough ferments for two days, supporting a daily output of 300-800 pizzas across their three Chiang Mai locations. That’s a lot of pizza, and a lot of cheese! Adirak Pizza. Cheeses from B100. Pre-order cheese for pickup at any Adirak Pizza outlets. Open daily 2pm-10pm.

Rooted in tradition and made in Chiang Mai, Dofann brings a refined, French sensibility to Thailand’s growing cheese scene. Founder Brice Renaud was raised in a family of cheesemakers back in France, but is self-taught and has carved his own path here building an artisan operation from the ground up with just four staff, and a whole lot of care. Dofann began with tangy, fresh goat cheeses, but now offers 18 varieties including rich raw cow’s milk cheese made with milk from a local co-op and regional goat farms, including the Royal Project. Each deliciously stinky wheel is made in compliance with Thai FDA standards, but the soul of the cheese remains distinctly handmade. You’ll find Dofann at Ton Tung Market on weekends, or stocked at Rimping, Tops and Vivin Grocery in Bangkok. The cheeses are also favored by local chefs and boutique hotels, where their creamy and spreadable chèvres shine on curated menus. Simple, elegant and undeniably French, made with Thai terroir. DoFann. Cheeses from B150. Sat-Sun 9am-2pm. Also available at select supermarkets and hotels.

At Jartisann, cheesemaking is more than craft. It’s composition. Founder and cheese maker Jarutat ‘Jart’ Snidwongse na Ayuthaya draws from his musical background and approaches each wheel like a musical score – intuitive, expressive and unmistakably original. With nearly two decades of experience, he crafts small-batch cheeses using unpasteurised cow and goat milk sourced from local co-ops and small farms in Chiang Mai. Some recipes arise from happy mistakes, like a now-signature feta developed for the Royal Project from leftover curds, while others reflect technical finesse honed from study, years of trial and error and observing European cheesemakers. The lineup now includes 13 varieties, spanning firm aged blocks to soft, delicate rinds like the playfully named San Paquanburie – a Chiang Mai take on soft brie. Head to Jartisann’s rustic shop and restaurant in Mae Hia to explore the full range and dine in on cheese-forward dishes like open-faced melts and creamy pastas, or assemble your own tasting board. They also have a new location at Kad Farang Mae Rim with the same offerings. Jartisann Cheeserie. Cheese plates from B280. Open 10.30am-8.30pm, closed Mondays. Also available at select supermarkets and hotels.

Since 1988, Dacheeso has quietly pioneered handmade cheese in northern Thailand. Founded by Kulab Kab Kham – a local dairy farmer who turned to cheesemaking when milk prices dropped – Dacheeso remains dedicated to traditional, home-style dairy production. Every wheel and wedge is crafted without preservatives or mechanisation, preserving a simple, fresh flavour.  Their range includes fresh dairy, mozzarella, cheddar, ricotta, smoked cheddar and soft white cheeses, all echoing authentic farmhouse methods, all made onsite. In addition, they also have an excellent range of other dairy products, from thick cream to buttermilk, that regularly sell out on the shelves of local supermarkets.  You can find their full lineup at The Hideaway Restaurant, next door to their factory, which stocks their cheese and dairy products for take-home. This quiet family business continues to be a staple for local chefs, families and anyone seeking genuine northern Thai dairy. Dacheeso Home Style Cheese. Cheeses and dairy products from B100. Also available at Jok, Rimping Supermarkets and Aggie Hut in Chiang Mai. Open daily 8am-6pm, closed Wednesdays.