Marisa Marchitelli

Looking 10 years ahead, Phuket could be Asia’s Monaco or St Tropez – a hub of yachting and sophisticated lifestyle, but with its own cultural heartbeat. Marina promenades could one day host art fairs, culinary festivals and regattas that attract a new wave of high-value travellers. If the island has long been known for its beaches, its next chapter could be written by the sea. This future is being mapped on Phuket’s east coast, where one of Thailand’s last deep-water marina sites has just been made available. The 138,000-square-metre property on Sapam Bay has the potential to host up to 200 yacht berths, including mega-yachts, alongside a mixed-use village of residences, retail and leisure facilities. It’s the kind of project that could shift the island’s economic horizon and strengthen Thailand’s ambition to become the ‘Boating Capital of Asia’.

Northern Thailand’s drinks scene is in full bloom. Head to Chiang Mai and you can sip locally-made rice and sugarcane spirits, farm-to-bottle gins, rhums (made with sugarcane juice) and even sparkling mead. Head into the mountains for hop-driven IPAs poured straight from the tanks.  But consumption aside, there’s a craftsmanship here that’s worth discovering, and thankfully Chiang Mai’s best distilleries and breweries are now opening their doors so you can take a peek and a sip inside.  Tour copper stills and fermentation tanks. Taste experimental sour beers with burgers in a mountain taproom. Climb into a hidden tasting room overlooking Chiang Dao’s wildlife sanctuary. Or simply sit down in a bar, order a highball and sip on spirits made just a few kilometers away. Each stop on this list offers a window into Thailand’s forever evolving drinking culture – and with the country’s recent decision to scrap the afternoon alcohol ban (almost, at least), you can raise a glass whenever the mood strikes.

In Thailand, if the kitchen is the heart of the home, the street is its theatre. We all know the scene: sparking woks, clouds of fragrant smoke, and vendors cooking in plain sight. But now, a new wave of restaurants in the country’s north is taking that raw, theatrical spirit and channelling it into fine dining. And if the street stall is the theatre, these new spots are the opera houses – sleek, intimate stages where the open kitchen is the main event. What ties them together is a devotion to fire, fermentation and fiercely local ingredients. Forget imported luxuries; Chiang Mai’s top chefs are championing foraged herbs, freshwater fish and indigenous grains, using modern techniques that are still deeply respectful of their heritage. The result is inventive, grounded and completely thrilling. Ready for a front-row seat? Here are the essential restaurants in Chiang Mai – and beyond – leading the culinary charge.

Thai kitchens don’t whisper, they roar: garlic sizzles, chilies pound, woks clang. And always in the background, jasmine rice steams quietly in the corner, filling the air with a soft, pandan-like perfume. For Thais, that fragrance means home. For me, that scent is steeped in nostalgia. As a child, when my head barely reached the countertop, I would watch my mother lift the lid of the rice pot, a cloud of steam rising to veil her face. Later, when the rice cooker gave its telltale ‘pop,’ my role was clear: to fluff the rice quickly, separating each grain before closing the pot again to trap its warmth and perfume. Even now, that small but important duty remains mine. That daily ritual revolves around what the world knows as jasmine rice. But its true name and official designation is Khao Hom Mali, Thailand’s most celebrated grain. First discovered in the Northeast in 1945, it is protected under Thailand’s Geographical Indication (GI) certification and can only be grown in Thai soil. The most prized fields lie in the Thung Kula Ronghai basin of Isan, where once-barren saline plains have, over generations, been transformed into fertile paddies. Here, the extremes of hot days, cool nights, and mineral-rich soil coax out the rice’s signature qualities: a floral aroma, delicate sweetness, and a soft, fluffy texture when cooked. Harvested just once a year in late autumn, these grains are recognized globally as the finest fragrant rice in the world. Photograph: TAT More than just

Forget the fuss over Michelin stars – khai jiao, the Thai omelette, has always been the people’s champion. Crispy, fluffy, sometimes stuffed with crab, sometimes nothing more than eggs and oil. It’s the dish that works at any hour of the day.  When Jay Fai’s Michelin-starred crab omelette made headlines for costing more than most people’s weekly shop, it sparked a nationwide debate: how much should an omelette really cost? The truth is, khai jiao has always been gloriously democratic. It can be a crisp-edged street snack, a lush crab-laden treat or even dressed up with herbs, flowers or tea leaves. Technique makes all the difference – timing, heat control and respect for ingredients – transforming something so simple into something unforgettable. And while the high-priced versions grab headlines, some of the most satisfying omelettes are still found at humble prices. From minced pork comfort-food classics to inventive riffs with unexpected toppings, forget Bangkok and try out our list of the top omelettes in Chiang Mai instead, ranging from B100 classics to near-thousand baht masterpieces. 

Chiang Mai may be laid-back by day, but after dark the city reveals a more mysterious side. Tucked behind unmarked doors, winding alleys and quiet staircases are some of the city’s most intriguing watering holes – places where the cocktails are serious, the lights are low and finding the entrance will require a bit of detective work. From speakeasy-style lounges with live jazz to minimalist hideaways in heritage buildings, these hidden bars are where Chiang Mai’s creative energy and nightlife scene quietly thrive. You won’t find big signs or flashing lights – these spots may appear on Google Maps, but good luck finding your way in. If you don’t know the secret, you could be pushing bookshelves or following mysterious red lanterns like moths to a flame. We’ll give you a hint, but it’s the whisper of music down an otherwise empty alley that will be your beacon call.  Once you eventually find your way inside, cocktails laden with the best liquor available to man are to be found – from rare international reserves to our favourite locally distilled spirit, Sonklin, from Choeng Doi Distillery just up the road. With a bit of planning (and some comfortable shoes), it’s entirely possible to turn these tucked-away gems into a weekend-long bar crawl – or even squeeze into one night if you’re feeling brave. Instead, we’d opt for a relaxed weekend of shaken drinks, sultry jazz and mysterious discoveries made by candlelight.

High in the hills of northern Thailand, a quiet, yet unexpected cheese renaissance is taking shape. With a growing interest in cheese, mostly imported from Europe, a new generation of Thai and expat artisans are trying their hand at crafting wheels, wedges and washed rinds right here in Chiang Mai – with results that rival their European counterparts.  Using raw local milk, time-honored techniques and a fearless sense of experimentation, a surprising number of cheesemakers are popping up across the north. Leading the way is Jartisann, a micro-creamery where each cheese is composed with instinct, artistry and a sense of place. While their creativity stands out, makers like DoFann, Dacheeso and Adirak are also redefining the possibilities for Thai cheese – sometimes rustic, sometimes refined, always rooted in place. The revolution may be small, but it’s bold, local and ready to be tasted!

If there’s a single dish that is the icon of Northern Thai cuisine, it’s khao soi – a fragrant, curry-laden bowl of rich coconut broth, silky egg noodles and finished with crispy golden strands of those very same noodles deep fried on top.  Yet, for all its deep ties to Chiang Mai, khao soi is something of an outlier in Lanna cuisine. Unlike most northern Thai dishes, which lean toward herbaceous, smokey and coconut-free flavours, khao soi bursts with over thirty bold spices, creamy stewed meats and curiously Chinese-Muslim and Indian influences. So how did this peculiar dish become the unofficial ambassador of northern Thai fare? Well, it is said to have arrived in Thailand via Yunnanese and Muslim traders on the Silk Road way back in the 13th century. And while Chiang Mai remains the heartland of khao soi, Bangkok has been steadily catching up, with top-tier Chiang Mai transplants popping up across the capital as the love for this food cascades over the country (with one of our featured listings recently winning big at Grab’s 2025 Thumbs Up Award). Here’s a roundup of the ten best places to eat khao soi – from legendary roadside stalls to modern interpretations in both Chiang Mai and the capital. And, for a bit of good measure, we’ve also thrown in a few expert-approved cooking schools where you can master the dish yourself. Let the slurping begin!

Markie keeps things simple: four generously hopped beers brewed in small batches, unpasteurised, and always kept at 2C from tank to tap. That commitment to freshness is what defines the brand. As founder Rene Anant Feddersen explains, ‘Anything that is simple requires complexity to get there. Our job is to brew great beer – and to make sure it stays cold so it tastes exactly the way it was crafted.’  With a background in logistics, Rene has built Markie around the principle that handling is everything – and he applies the same cold-chain care to importing select craft beers from New Zealand, making their selection one of the most distinctive in town. You can try Markie at their tap room, which opens only on Thursdays in the Pa Daet area. The space feels more like a cocktail lounge than a pub – ash-black walls, solid seating and a relaxed vibe that encourages mingling. Expect at least two beers on tap alongside a rotating lineup of seasonal cans and bottles, plus rare imports that beer lovers won’t find elsewhere. ‘We call it the Bright Side of Life,’ says Rene. We tend to agree.  The Tasting Room by Cold Chain Craft. Markie beer from B160. Pa Daet. Thur 5pm-10pm.

What started as kitchen experiments with ginger beer has grown into one of the most intriguing drinks projects in Northern Thailand. About three years ago, co-founder Pitchayapak ‘Pailin’ Wongsasuk tried fermenting honey at home in Chiang Dao, and a single sparkling batch of wildflower honey wine – crisp, dry and champagne-like – convinced her there was something special here.  Today, alongside co-founder Will Le Masurier and creative director Dohee Kwon, Daydrinkers Collective continues in that spirit, producing small-batch meads rooted in the landscape: wildflower honey collected by forest-edge beekeepers, longan honey from Chiang Dao’s orchards and pristine mountain spring water that makes up 70 percent of every bottle. The result is a lineup of naturally fermented honey wines that taste closer to a dry white or sparkling wine than anything overly sweet, showing how mead – one of the world’s oldest alcoholic drinks – can feel entirely modern. Their production facility is a striking tower built at the edge of their garden in Chiang Dao, with a tasting room on the top floor overlooking the wildlife sanctuary and a perfect view of Doi Luang mountain. Here you can sample the latest creations, from still longan ferments to sparkling wildflower wines, as well as hear the stories behind each batch. Booking is simple – just message them on Instagram to arrange a time, then head up into the mountains for an afternoon of discovery. As Pailin explains, ‘We want people to taste what’s

Founded in 2015 by husband-and-wife team Eelke and Sudarat Nildum, Maalstroom Brewing was born out of a simple idea: Chiang Mai deserved fresh, hoppy craft beer brewed close to home. What started with a passion for India Pale Ales – their signature style, dry-hopped and best enjoyed fresh – has since grown into a full lineup of both modern and traditional brews, with a wild sour program currently in development. As brewmaster Eelke puts it, ‘Hoppy beers really shine when they’re fresh, and we wanted people here to taste them the way they’re meant to be enjoyed.’The best way to experience Maalstroom is at their taproom and restaurant, Microkosmos, nestled in the northern mountains close to Doi Luang – Chiang Dao’s famous peak. Most of their beers are only available here, making it a true destination for craft drinkers. Alongside the pints, visitors can expect excellent burgers, steaks, Belgian fries, Dutch bar snacks and a relaxed atmosphere that reflects the mountain setting. Peaceful, scenic, and far from the city’s bustle. No booking required – just show up, grab a seat and enjoy brews you won’t find anywhere else.Microkosmos Craft Beer & Burger Bar. Craft beers from B180. Chiang Dao. Wed-Mon 4pm-11.30pm.

North Gate Spirit is the newest project from Pharadon ‘Opor’ Phonamnuai, the legendary saxophonist behind Chiang Mai’s beloved North Gate Jazz Co-Op. The space begins life each day as a cafe pouring Chiang Rai coffee with creative twists – think Yuzu Americanos in cocktail glasses and coconut foam lattes prepared by baristas who double as bartenders. Yet unlike most cafes, you can also order a drink featuring North Gate Spirit – the house-made shochu distilled from rice and sugarcane at North Gate Distillery. It comes served as highballs with soda, poured neat over ice or delicately matched with tonic.  As afternoon fades, the space shifts into a bar and music venue, showcasing ethnic minority musicians. Soon, a new back bar will open with cocktail flights and a full programme of live music. The setting is just as compelling as the drinks: a restored Old City shophouse filled with folk art and handmade details by local artisans. As Opor puts it, ‘Every inch of the building, every drink, carries the touch of local craft – from the architecture to the glass in your hand.’ There’s even a surprisingly addictive and rather boozy shochu ice cream – further blurring the lines between dessert and nightcap. Shochu affogato anyone? North Gate Spirit. Shochu highball from B150. Ratchapakhinai Road. 9am-6pm.

Set against the rice fields of Chiang Dao, Choeng Doi is crafting spirits that feel both deeply local and refreshingly modern. Our team at Time Out have had a sneak peek at the distillery just last month (of which you can read about here) and needless to say, we’re impressed.  Their flagship, Sonklin: Original, is a rice spirit made from 100 percent Thai sticky rice, double-distilled and polished through coconut carbon for a clean, aromatic finish that’s smooth enough to sip neat or mix into cocktails. It’s an elegant showcase of how rice – long the backbone of Thai cuisine – can be transformed into something new in the glass. Officially opening their doors to the public this November, Choeng Doi will start with booking-only tours of their facilities and the local area, led by experienced, private guides who really know their stuff.  A signature cocktail starts the show before a tour of the distillery  that ends with  guided tasting at the visitor centre. For those who want to go deeper, longer distillery experiences are in the works – including full-day programs and multi-day stays where guests can learn, observe and even take part in the production process. The experience doesn’t end there: a small gift shop will offer bottles, merch and local crafts, plus a Distillery Exclusive spirit available only on-site. You’ll also find Sonklin poured in select Chiang Mai and Bangkok cocktail bars – from Brine in Nimmanhaemin to Bar Not Found in Chang Phuak – where inventive drinks li

South of Chiang Mai in sleepy Sanpatong, this young distillery has already made a name for itself as a destination for spirit lovers. Founded in 2023 and built entirely from scratch, Sanpatong was created with a simple vision: to craft spirits that are pure, natural and true to Thai agriculture. Book yourself into a guided tour and be led through every step of the process – from the scent of fresh sugarcane and tropical fruits in fermentation tanks to the soaring ‘distilling cathedral’ where copper pot stills work their magic. Tastings showcase the range, but even non-drinkers are looked after with flavourful options like coconut flower nectar, cold-pressed apple juice and the distillery’s Coconut Blossom Nectar Syrup. As founder Stefan Rakoczi explains, ‘Every element of Sanpatong is designed to let the raw materials speak – we want visitors to experience the aromas, the craft and the spirit of Thai agriculture in every sip.’Visitors currently have two ways to experience Sanpatong: ‘Signature Tour & Tasting’ and ‘Signature Cocktail Masterclass.’ Each features the distillery’s award-winning line of gins, rhums and (soon) vodkas, making the sessions as distinctive as the spirits themselves. Beyond these experiences, bottles can be purchased directly from the distillery shop or found in select Chiang Mai and Bangkok outlets, as well as at Rimping Supermarkets. Sanpatong Distillery. Tours and cocktail masterclass from B1,500. Thung Satok, Sanpatong. 10am-6pm.

Tucked behind the daytime bustle of Thanin Market, Penn.Izakaya is easy to miss – its black steel facade framed by a discreet circular staircase gives it a mysterious, almost clandestine feel. Inside, the space opens into an intimate dining bar wrapped around an open kitchen, with just a handful of extra tables. An experience that mixes food and music, the DJ is positioned right beside the chefs and their open fire. As you watch her bobbing to the beat, flames roar just behind – a scene that feels equal parts club and kitchen. The menu leans towards an izakaya-style but with noticeable Thai flourishes, perfect for sharing over sake, wine or beer. The grilled beef was a standout – smokey, charred, tender and full of flavour – while the small plates balance comfort with a touch of refinement. Part hidden bar, part chef’s counter, it’s one of those places you stumble on once and immediately want to keep as your own secret. Penn.Izakaya. Mains from B100. Chang Phueak, Chiang Mai. Open daily 6pm-12am.

Maadae takes streetside open kitchen themes to the next level as smoke from its charcoal grills wafts into the evening air, carrying the scent of the catch of the day. Born during the pandemic to support Thailand’s artisanal fishermen, it has since become a local favourite under the careful eye of Chef Yaowadee ‘Yao’ Chookong, who now also runs a popular cooking school outside of town. Fish offerings change daily – whole mackerel, trevally or snapper grilled over charcoal fire. There are house favourites too: rich fish chuchee curry, bright crab ceviche with homemade chips and refreshing fried fish pomelo salad with shrimp paste. Outdoor seating puts you right at the heart of the action, flames flaring from street-side grills. Drinks and desserts are hyper-local too – house-brewed teas, Daydrinker’s Collective mead from Chiang Dao, seasonal fruit sodas and ice cream from nearby farms. Maadae Slowfish Kitchen. Mains from B300. Thapae Road, Chiang Mai. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm.

Minimalist and restrained, Pari- is one of Chiang Mai’s most elegant expressions of ingredient-forward dining. The space is pared-back, designed to let the food and the open kitchen take centre stage. Flames leap and smoke drifts as vegetables, meats and seafood are grilled or fermented with little adornment, often accompanied by nothing more than a pinch of salt or soy. The dry-aged raw fish with ponzu says it all – minimalist in presentation, maximalist in flavour. Lunch leans casual with rice bowls, gyoza and small plates, while dinner shifts toward more refined a la carte dishes such as grilled organic chicken with yuzu kosho and simple but unforgettable vegetables like cabbage or eggplant cooked over the fire. Pari’s appeal lies in its purity – no flourishes, just thoughtful cooking where every ingredient is allowed to speak. It’s the kind of place where you leave remembering the flavour of the cabbage as much as the beef. Pari-. Dinner mains from B225. Phra Sing, Chiang Mai. Open daily, 10am-2pm, 6pm-11pm.

Chiang Mai’s fine-dining scene has a new benchmark in Belén, a collaboration between local restaurateur Tao Ingudananda (Kiti Panit, Ledu) and chef Paulo Airaudo (who holds six Michelin stars between his restaurants). The kitchen is led by Italian Executive Chef Matteo Santalucia, whose impressive resume spans The Fat Duck, Maison Pic, La Dame de Pic, and Alain Ducasse. His style blends European precision with Japanese influences, while drawing 80 percent of ingredients from Northern Thailand’s fields, forests and farms. Dinner begins in the moody library lounge, with amuse-bouches and Monsoon Tea before stepping through a hidden bookcase door into the 18-seat dining room. 10 of these seats face the open kitchen, where dishes unfold in full view: barracuda tartelette with dashi, seared Hokkaido scallop in a luscious XO-champagne sauce with green curry butter and milk bread on the side, tomato risotto with uni and a standout chawanmushi with charred corn. Desserts balance playfulness and elegance, from a mangosteen and white chocolate creation to a goat cheese flan with Thai plums, finishing with a whimsical Star Wars-inspired whiskey jelly. Ambitious, intimate and polished, it’s tipped to become Chiang Mai’s first Michelin-starred restaurant. Belén. 14-course menu B5,500; wine pairing B2,500. InterContinental Chiang Mai the Mae Ping, Chang Klan. Open Thu-Mon, 5.30pm-11pm.

What began as a one-night-a-week hangout among friends has evolved into one of Chiang Mai’s most personal dining experiences. Chefs Patsorn ‘Nick’ Vilaihongsa and Nont Panayanggool now helm Friend’s Table six nights a week, alternating as leads in the kitchen. Seating a maximum of 14 guests, the restaurant feels like dining in someone’s living room – except the ‘living room’ is the kitchen itself. Board games still line the shelves, a nod to its casual origins, but the menu is all ambition. The current 10-course tasting leans on street food inspiration elevated with luxury ingredients: a charcoal-grilled tamarind prawn, wagyu steak frites with duck fat potatoes, and snow fish bao with crab tamarind reduction. Dishes shift every three months, and add-ons like a smoked salmon rosette or wagyu sirloin make the experience even more indulgent. With a mostly female team running both kitchen and floor, the atmosphere is warm, precise and unpretentious – an open-kitchen concept taken to its most intimate. Friend’s Table by Nick and Nont. 10-course menu B2,990. Nong Khwai, Hang Dong. Open Wed-Mon, 6.30pm-10.30pm.  

Nestled in a humble yet artful Lanna-style house on the outskirts of Chiang Rai, Chef Kongwuth ‘Kong’ Chaiwongkachon turns each seven-course tasting menu into a multisensory performance. Up to 12 diners sit alongside his open kitchen, where every dish is introduced with stories of the ingredient’s origin – whether from local farmers, fishermen, or even wild ecosystems – making each course an education on local terroir. Menus change every three months and lean into Northern Thai traditions interpreted with creative restraint and deep, thoughtful reinvention. Highlights have included prawn-and-radish cannelloni with fermented mustard‑green butter, tom som pla with chayote vine, khao soi gai in a contemporary glaze and inventive-yet-familiar desserts like the amethyst bualoy‑krongkrang‑tubtim krob medley. Don’t skip the wine pairing or the rum digestif, both carefully composed to enhance the dining experience. Locus Native Food Lab. Seasonal menu B3,000-3,500. Mae Kon, Chiang Rai. Open Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-8.30pm.