A burger beats a steak âany day,â writes meat mastermind Pat LaFrieda
Editorâs note: If thereâs such a thing as a celebrity butcher, Pat LaFrieda, whose name is on more great menus than Benedict and his eggs, is it. (Ever heard of the Black Label burger?). LaFrieda gushes about the bite that made his family business famous. Want to try his bespoke blend? He is now serving his burger in Time Out Market New York.
Iâll take a burger over a steak any day. Everything, from the beef to the bun, is just amazing. Itâs Americaâs comfort food.
My first burger memories are of my dad grilling in the backyard in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn. We couldnât wait for him to get home. He would make us four-ounce doublesâfor a 10-year-old, thatâs giganticâalways with American cheese. I think thatâs as sophisticated as we were then; thatâs all we knew at the time. Being in that part of Brooklyn, you didnât get hamburger buns from the supermarket. We used Italian sesame-seed bread from the corner bakery. Burgers were a real big delight.
I love a nice crust sear. My favorite burger is something thatâs thick yet still medium-rareâthatâs the only way you can taste all the love and passion that went into it. A burger will taste like it smells, and that aroma of beef and the sweet scent of corn, which our steers are finished on, would be lost if it were cooked well-done.
âIn New York City, we have the strongest demand for quality and the least tolerance for anything thatâs not amazing.â
Black Label burger at Minetta TavernPhotograph: Courtesy Minetta Tavern/Emilie Baltz
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