Susanne Masters

Arriving at the castle entrance steps, guarded by a pair of Irish wolfhound statues, the almighty Ashford Castle is preceded by a top-hatted gatekeeper at the estate entrance from the main road – equally friendly when I arrived soaked by rain on the last day of a week cycling as when I arrived in a car looking presentable. From gatehouse to castle, the private road winds past golf course and through woodland before crossing a narrow bridge over the River Cong. Here you can luxuriate in maximalism with an 800-year pedigree against the backdrop of the largest lough in the Republic of Ireland.  Why stay at Ashford Castle?  Inside, the décor blings with colour, textures, and scale. Contemporary pieces that draw on crafts and materials with Irish provenance are on display alongside antiques. In the Connaught room the vast chandelier is Donegal crystal, the green bar top in the Prince of Wales bar is Connemara marble, and life-size portraits on the walls are of previous castle owners.  Built in 1228, the castle passed through aristocratic hands via battle, Royal Grant and inheritance, until it was bought by The Guinness family in 1852. As a hunting lodge with salmon fishing and bird shoots it was a social lubricant for the nouveau riche family. Their illustrious guests included the Prince of Wales, later George V, and Oscar Wilde. In 1939 it was sold and opened as a hotel, passing through several owners until it was bought by the Red Carnation group in 2013. Leafing through the gue