Despite being a lifelong L.A. resident, it wasn’t until a recent mini engagement trip that I finally ventured to San Diego and stayed at The Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows.
Its website describes the hotel as “a landmark of San Diego”, and everyone I chatted with—and even in Carlsbad during a lunch stop on the way—waxed lyrical about the Lafayette Hotel: each person seemed to have their own story about it, and it’s clearly a destination for tourists and locals alike.
The property was built back in 1946—it was the only hotel to be constructed in the U.S. during World War II—and it originally opened as Imig Manor, named for local entrepreneur Larry Imig, who imagined it as a “city within a city”. The hotel spent a few years as a glamorous Old Hollywood hideaway, hosting lavish parties and welcoming stars like Ava Gardner, Lana Turner, Lucille Ball and John Wayne—in fact, Bob Hope was the first guest to sign the hotel registry. Then, in 1955, Conrad Hilton bought the property and renamed it the Lafayette Hotel, which kept it in business until it was purchased by Consortium Holdings, who, in 2023, restored the hotel to its former destination-worthy glory.
Why stay at The Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows?
A better question would be, why ever leave? You know you’re at a good hotel when you have to talk yourself into leaving to explore your destination city. You could spend a two-day stay entirely on property and never be bored: there’s a retro 24-hour diner, a moody Oaxacan restaurant for dinner, an impeccably styled Lobby Bar, a mahogany-paneled bowling alley, a pool that you’ve most definitely seen on Instagram and, last but not least, a jazz bar that will transport you to the 1950s.
What are the rooms like at the Lafayette?
The rooms are done up with maximalist design that you’d never be brave enough to implement in your own home, but here, it works beautifully—the clashing prints and colors create a delicious discord. I particularly loved the curtains hiding the TV and the custom Hotel Lafayette wallpaper—a swamp-set take on classic French etoile, which sits above a lemur-print pattern covering the bottom half of the walls. Inside the black-and-white-tiled bathroom and rainfall shower, you’ll find toiletries by luxe Parisian brand Diptyque. And on the desk, personalized stationery embossed with your name is a lovely touch.
I stayed in a ground-level poolside room which was super convenient for walking right out through the double doors and stake a claim on a couple of the in-demand pool loungers first thing in the morning (the pool opens early—at 7am). The less desirable aspect of this is that, yes, a trendy pool scene does get quite noisy. In theory this would be bothersome if you’re trying to spend a quiet morning sleeping in, but the hotel has you covered with branded ear plugs on the bedside table. Oh, and the pool closes by 9pm, so you won’t have to worry about the din at night. In fact, once it was nice and quiet, I curled up with a good book in one of the throne-like rattan patio chairs outside. There are also rooms down the carpeted hallways branching out from the lobby, if you want to put some space between you and the pool.
Where can you eat (and drink) at the Lafayette Hotel?
There are a plethora of dining and drinking options on-site. The first you’ll encounter is the Lobby Bar, where you can order a coffee from the check-in counter, or a cocktail from the circular bar itself, which surrounds a statue of Atlas and sits under an atrium-style roof. The space is also a perfect office for the day, if you have work to get done while on vacation.
For breakfast, you’ll want to hit up Beginner’s Diner—though you can also visit for lunch, dinner or a 2am slice of pie, as the spot never closes. This is my favorite concept at the hotel: it’s a retro-styled homage to the Platonic ideal of the American diner, the one that’s been mythologized in TV, movies and song lyrics. Some of my favorite menu items were the banana bread pudding French toast, breakfast tacos and lemon meringue pie. If you’re really hungry, opt for the chicken fried steak and eggs, and pair with a boozy milkshake.
Worlds apart in vibe is the dark, gothic restaurant Quixote, which has the feel of a gothic cathedral with stained glass, candlelight and a 110-year-old altar sourced from a dilapidated Catholic church in Mexico. Part restaurant, part mezcaleria, the menu is made up of a mix of Oaxacan-inspired small plates—think chili garlic shrimp tacos and a crab corn doughnut—and agave-based cocktails that honor the city’s Hispanic heritage.
You can also order food and drinks at the Pool Bar and Lou Lou’s Jungle Room, plus drinks at the Gutter—each concept has a distinct drink menu—but more on those below.
What can you do for fun at the Lafayette Hotel?
First and foremost, the focal point of the Lafayette is the pool. Originally designed by Johnny Weissmuller, the actor who played Tarzan in the 1930s, the pool lives on today as a draw for both hotel guests and visitors (who can reserve a day pool pass). Plan ahead to snag a lounge chair and while away the afternoon with a couple of tropical cocktails and an order of the better-than-average fries.
Next to Beginner’s Diner, you’ll find the Gutter—an analog game room that’s at once sophisticated, fun and inviting. There’s a bar, lots of cozy tables and booths, and games—Skee-Ball, basketball, shuffleboard, foosball, billiards and, of course, bowling, though renting one of the two lanes will cost you $50 per person, per hour.
Lou Lou’s Jungle Room is something truly special. When I walked in, I felt like I was stepping into the world of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Enter off of El Cajon, and the first thing you see will be the ornate circular bar, which made a cameo in Top Gun. The supper club and live music venue has a lot of history—formerly called the Mississippi Room, it welcomed the likes of Bing Crosby to its stage back in the day. Today, the original clamshell stage still stands, and hosts a robust lineup of live music. When I visited, I saw Nick Waterhouse, and it was easy to imagine I was in another era. Some shows are ticketed, some are complimentary, some offer dinner service, some only cocktails. Check the club’s calendar for details.
And of course, there’s a gym, which opened relatively recently. Expect your typical hotel gym—treadmills, stationary bikes, weight benches—but with a flourish of Lafayette flair (think purple walls, the ceiling painted like the sky with fluffy clouds, and chandeliers).
What is the service like at the Lafayette?
Service—whether you’re checking in or ordering a drink at the bar or food at the diner—is friendly and personable. There are usually lots of people to attend to—especially around the pool—so don’t expect a ton of one-on-one attention. The rooms don’t have phones that connect you to the front desk; instead, you get a text when you check in with a number you can message with any questions, and you’ll usually get a response within a few minutes.
What’s the area like around the Lafayette?
Right across the street from the hotel is long-standing neighborhood dive bar Gilly’s House of Cocktails; a block down from the hotel is another popular dive, Live Wire. Located a five-minute drive away, you’ll find some standout sipping and shopping options. Start with a coffee at Communal before heading to used bookstore Verbatim Books. Between its huge selection, its Instagram-famous installation spelling out its name in books and its Stephen King mural outside, it’s a must-visit for book lovers (though I personally preferred the carefully curated Book Catapult for new books—only a three-minute drive away). Nearby, Revival Vintage Eyewear is pricey but has some of the coolest frames I’ve ever seen. The Girl Can’t Help It is just one of a handful of great vintage shops I came across in San Diego. And I’m a big fan of Pigment, an airy plant and gift shop organized by color.
When you get hungry, Mabel’s Gone Fishing is famous for its seafood, and Consortium’s Leila—though it’s still tricky to get a reservation for—is a stunning space with Middle Eastern cuisine. Fellow Consortium property Part Time Lover—a hifi listening lounge/record store/bar—is also worth a visit, as is astrology-themed speakeasy the Seventh House. For live entertainment, check the calendar at the Observatory Theatre.
Why you should book a stay at the Lafayette Hotel
Listen, if you’re looking for understated luxury and simple elegance, the Lafayette probably won’t be your vibe. But for literally everyone else, there’s no hotel I feel more confident recommending—especially for fun-loving adults. But you don’t have to take my word for it. The Michelin Guide just awarded the Lafayette one key—the equivalent of a Michelin star for hotels—marking it as “a very special stay” and calling out its “retro glamour” and “bold, rich design.” And with rooms starting at under $300, I think that—for what you can expect from a stay here—the price is surprisingly reasonable.
DETAILS
Address: 2223 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego, CA 92104
Price: Rooms start at $268 a night
Closest transport: Bus routes 10 and 15 at El Cajon Boulevard and Texas Street
Book now: via Booking.com
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