A self-styled ‘French seafood’ restaurant, Abysse seemingly popped out of nowhere in 2015 and surprised most Tokyo foodies even more by scoring a Michelin star the next year. Captained by 32-year-old Kotaro Meguro, a veteran of both Le Petit Nice in Marseille and Quintessence right here in the capital – both triple-Michelin establishments – this less than conveniently located Minami-Aoyama spot has been the talk of the town ever since. Meguro set out to pursue the ultra-seasonal character of Japanese cuisine while staying true to French tradition, and found that such a combination is best expressed in the form of fish. His marine creations both look and taste artistic. Take the managatsuo (silver pomfret) with white miso sauce, hazelnut and manganji sweet pepper – a whitefish cooked in its own juice until melt-in-your-mouth soft and flavoured with both spicy and richly aromatic elements. Meguro is about as passionate about fish as you can get, tirelessly studying each variety’s properties and moving himself closer to the ideal preparation method. ‘Japanese fishermen are the best in the world at handling fish,’ he says. ‘My role is to transmit that knowledge and expertise through my cooking.’ Lunch ¥5,800, dinner ¥9,800 (plus tax and service).
Aoyama TMI Bldg 1F, 4-9-9 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
|Opening hours:||12noon-1.30pm, 6.30pm-8.30pm / closed most Wednesdays|
|Transport:||Omotesando Station (Ginza, Chiyoda, Hanzomon lines)|